2022/23 V4S stock preload settings

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Ideally, I would go with lighter springs front and rear. More front than rear. From what I’ve read and discussed w others, I probably could go w 8.5-9 Nm so I’m planning on splitting the diff and doing 8.5/9 on the front. With the rear, probably could go down to an 7.5 Nm and bump up the preload (to the stock 18 mm) to get better geometry. 150 lbs w gear.

With my current set up I should expect it to turn a little on the slow side. At the track, I could increase preload to help it turn better but also expect it to be a bumpy ride.
 
I'm funny per thread turned, so surely thats equal to 1mm per thread turn or sag or preload or erm...
 
RickD996 said:
I don't measure sag. I measure shock length, preload, and ride height.

But, essentially, when you're setting sag, you're just measuring the effect of preload, and spring weight.
Click to expand...


Do you setup recommended preload (like 12mm for DU468) and adjust shock length to get the ride height you want?
 
Wito said:
Do you setup recommended preload (like 12mm for DU468) and adjust shock length to get the ride height you want?
Click to expand...

Yep. Although, you can use preload to adjust ride height too (essentially what your doing with sag, but this is a more accurate way of doing it). Adjusting preload is, usually, easier than adjusting shock length.
 
RickD996 said:
Yep. Although, you can use preload to adjust ride height too (essentially what your doing with sag, but this is a more accurate way of doing it). Adjusting preload is, usually, easier than adjusting shock length.
Click to expand...

I do similar adjustments. Although I check SAG just to confirm it is in "ok" range and do some very minor preload changes if needed.. Then I adjust shock length to get good ride height. Curious - what is your reference for ride height? For me it is factory default setup -> 312mm shock length (ohlins ttx gp) with 12mm preload and 600mm (middle of range) swingarm length.(new 114 links chain with 16/41 gearing). Then some additional things to take into account (gearing and tires).
 
I just bring my wrenches on a ride, when I stop I’ll add some preload to front and rear, ride some to see how it feels, adjust a bit more till I like how it feels.
 
Wito said:
I do similar adjustments. Although I check SAG just to confirm it is in "ok" range and do some very minor preload changes if needed.. Then I adjust shock length to get good ride height. Curious - what is your reference for ride height? For me it is factory default setup -> 312mm shock length (ohlins ttx gp) with 12mm preload and 600mm (middle of range) swingarm length.(new 114 links chain with 16/41 gearing). Then some additional things to take into account (gearing and tires).
Click to expand...

Problem with measuring shock length, in relation to ride height, is the eccentric hub (as I'm sure you're aware!). So, a ride height tool, or two fixed points, are your friends! Swingarm length, number of links, gearing, etc, should be able to help calculate it, but....

If you go to 16m45s in my vid, you can compare your ride height to mine, if you're interested?

 
RickD996 said:
If you go to 16m45s in my vid, you can compare your ride height to mine, if you're interested?
Click to expand...

I use ride height gauge to measure ride height, but I will measure the same way as in your video, so we can compare. Can't compare front measurement, because I use different bottom triple clamps (I think they're a few mm higher than stock). My forks (740mm with 120mm travel are 3mm above top triple clamps)
 
RickD996 said:
Problem with measuring shock length, in relation to ride height, is the eccentric hub (as I'm sure you're aware!). So, a ride height tool, or two fixed points, are your friends! Swingarm length, number of links, gearing, etc, should be able to help calculate it, but....

If you go to 16m45s in my vid, you can compare your ride height to mine, if you're interested?

Click to expand...



You have the bikes weight supported on the pegs there so the measurement you took is more an installed shock length than ride height yeah? If it were a true ride height measurement it would be measured with the suspension supporting the bikes weight, IE Sag?

I don't bother measuring static sag, but i do measure rider sag and my S suspension was fine at the front, nowhere near right at the rear, but my biggest issue is my height, i'm only 5'3" and on my first ride i couldn't touch the ground any more than one toe, that's it. The "advertised" seat height is supposed to be 830mm which is manageable but mine was just over 850mm, the rear shock was completely topped out, after resetting the preload to give me a seat height of 830mm (manageable for me, and very necessary if i'm to use it on the street) i checked my rider sag and the spring was within the acceptable range so i've left it at that. I can't find my notes but i do remember winding a lot of turns off the rear preload collars to get it to the desired ride height.

I've also read in another thread about changing the front ride height and someone mentioned they get to the edge of the front tyre but not the rear so wanted to change the front ride height (lifting it maybe?? will have to find it again) to reduce the possibility of tucking the front?

I'm not sure what i've posted does for @SuperDomestique original question but for me checking rider sag would be the first thing to look at as there's no disassembly of the bike to measure shock length etc. you don't really care what the spring rates are if the rider sag is in the window and unless you're say Dani Pedrosa there's very little chance of winding all the preload off and turning the bike into a speedboat but once rider sag is confirmed you can find the geometry form a manual and check that you haven't completely screwed up the F&R ride heights, which he won't but still not hard to check.
 
If I were to prioritize suspension adjustments:

1. Spring rate
2. Ride height
3. Rider sag
4. Static sag

Getting the right spring rate will give you better ride height bc you can be in a better preload window. For me at 75 kg kitted up, I dropped to 8.75 (8.5/9) front springs and 8 rear.

I’m not sure what Ducati was thinking with the stock settings but like you had no static sag. I tried to get sag settings w the stock springs. I had to wind out pretty much all preload to get close to sag figures that @roadracerx recommended (fwiw he also rec’d lighter springs too) and the bike felt lazy.

After installing new springs, sags were all within margin with the original preload settings. The bike sharpened up and felt more eager to turn in and hold a line. The bike was also more comfortable and stable.

In summary, get the proper springs as it opens the doors to unleashing the potential of this suspension.
 
Wito said:
I use ride height gauge to measure ride height, but I will measure the same way as in your video, so we can compare. Can't compare front measurement, because I use different bottom triple clamps (I think they're a few mm higher than stock). My forks (740mm with 120mm travel are 3mm above top triple clamps)
Click to expand...

What year is your bike Wito?
 
Loony888 said:
You have the bikes weight supported on the pegs there so the measurement you took is more an installed shock length than ride height yeah? If it were a true ride height measurement it would be measured with the suspension supporting the bikes weight, IE Sag?

I don't bother measuring static sag, but i do measure rider sag and my S suspension was fine at the front, nowhere near right at the rear, but my biggest issue is my height, i'm only 5'3" and on my first ride i couldn't touch the ground any more than one toe, that's it. The "advertised" seat height is supposed to be 830mm which is manageable but mine was just over 850mm, the rear shock was completely topped out, after resetting the preload to give me a seat height of 830mm (manageable for me, and very necessary if i'm to use it on the street) i checked my rider sag and the spring was within the acceptable range so i've left it at that. I can't find my notes but i do remember winding a lot of turns off the rear preload collars to get it to the desired ride height.

I've also read in another thread about changing the front ride height and someone mentioned they get to the edge of the front tyre but not the rear so wanted to change the front ride height (lifting it maybe?? will have to find it again) to reduce the possibility of tucking the front?

I'm not sure what i've posted does for @SuperDomestique original question but for me checking rider sag would be the first thing to look at as there's no disassembly of the bike to measure shock length etc. you don't really care what the spring rates are if the rider sag is in the window and unless you're say Dani Pedrosa there's very little chance of winding all the preload off and turning the bike into a speedboat but once rider sag is confirmed you can find the geometry form a manual and check that you haven't completely screwed up the F&R ride heights, which he won't but still not hard to check.
Click to expand...

You've kind of answered your own question. If you measure with the bikes weight on the suspension, you're measuring sag. Ride height is measured with out weight on the suspension, and would be adjusted through shock length, or changing linkages.
 
Thread revival sorry due to being for my bike (22/23 pani V4S). I only use this bike for faster road riding and normally canyon / twisties / you get the jist. I have an S1000 track bike that I've spent a lot of time on suspension and geometry with offset triples and flat rate linkage etc. Looking for a quick guide to what people have found to work with this bike and road riding as far as quick static sag and rider sag measurements go. Would be handy as I like doing days away and when you have 10-15kg hanging off the back of the bike on a rack, the handling manners become harder to work with. It would be great to have a basic figure to adjust to (or close to back to) for this purpose. Recently started taking preload out of the rear as there was no static sag at all. Yes I'm being lazy but I'm not chasing lap times, just a base to work with and see if I'm in spring range. 89kg + gear.
 

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