520 chain kit recommendations

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I just installed JT quick change carrier and sprockets. Steel front sprocket and aluminum rear. The replacement rear sprockets are $45usd so i keep a spare on hand. Also easy to experiment with sprocket combinations and not to costly. For chain i went with EK 3D 520GP. 9400lb tensile and well known to be good quality. Having a shorter swing arm compared to Jap bikes, we can buy less links at once and get a decent deal on a chain. The whole kit cost me about $260usd. Ill be using this setup for racing and im sure it will be able to take the abuse. If you want a different/fancy sprocket flange or poly cush drives, its going to cost about double.
 
Hi TsaiCo,
I just notice that the stock 6 nut holding the original Ducati rear sprocket has a unique shaped nut. I believe this is just a 12 points nut, is this correct?
and I can just use a regular 14mm 12 points socket tool to remove them?
Please kindly advise.
Thanks

matter of fact, I did order the kit of titinum version of those nuts and I will be taking them off soon this Tuesday. I will update my findings
 
matter of fact, I did order the kit of titinum version of those nuts and I will be taking them off soon this Tuesday. I will update my findings

Hi TsaiCo,
Thanks for your response. I also purchase this 12 points socket tool from Amazon last night, and hopefully arrive soon. I will test it to the stock Nut and hopefully the 14mm fit well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQF2NM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

81LzQmWy3eL._SL1500_.jpg


By the way, I also ordered the Sitta 520 kit a few days ago along with the EK 3D 520GP chain (yesterday) and
AEM Factory titanium cush drive with titanium nut (New but Old Stock kit where it came with titanium nuts because the current AEM Factory kit came with just aluminum nut).

Stud-rubber-dumpers-3_271c27d2-4023-4218-b7a9-bd7903652e91-800x800.jpg
complete-transmission-kit-rapid-fix-sitta-ducati-panigale-v4.jpg
ek3dc4_p208721_d80161.jpg


I figure all the above will make a very good color combination because the Sitta quick sprocket changer is in bronze color, the ducati sprocket carrier is in dark bronze color.
I was considering AEM sprocket carrier below:
DU120S.jpeg


but in the end I like the stock Ducati sprocket holder design (and color) better so I am keeping it.
Now the AEM Factory titanum cush that I purchase was from the kit with the rare and no longer available Champagne color, plus the EK 3D 520GP chain will be in nice Gold color and my stock wheel is the magnesium forged in bronze color.
Well, hopefully I am right on this color combo, I guess I will find out when they all arrived.
 
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Sitta,41, DID ERV3 520, CNC Ti flange, AEM Ti drive pins, ADP Ti axle/nut and retaining clip, RAM Magnesium hub, Brembo caliper/Ti hardware, billet bracket, BT rotor.
Setup has been bulletproof. Flange, drive pins and hub have 18K miles. This sprocket and chain are close to 4K miles. I toss the sprocket and chain whenever they need it. Lateral alignment and maintenance are critical for aluminum sprocket life. If you’re not going to keep it clean, get as steel outer ring setup. The Sitta is about $160.00. I don't quite see the reasoning with regard to the QC setup unless you are swapping gears with some frequency and even then you can pull the axle nut as fast as you could pull an outer sprocket. There is a reason why the Corse/RS kit doesn't use the QC setup. CAUTION when mixing and matching flanges, drive pins and sprocket/sprocket carriers. All of the mfg parts can be a bit different dimensionally (my Ti CNC flange is 1mm shorter at the hub washer than my CNC aluminum flange) and can cause assembly/alignment t issues. Check everything before you ride or you can ruin stuff in a hurry. There are a few guys on here running the Sitta with excellent results. This isn't a plug for a brand. AEM, CNC etc are all excellent. Just check the setup.


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matter of fact, I did order the kit of titinum version of those nuts and I will be taking them off soon this Tuesday. I will update my findings

Hi TsaiCo,
My tools from Amazon arrived early this morning, and it's a perfect fit for the sprocket nut. 12 point deep socket size 14mm. Below is the picture:

IMG_6962.jpg
 
b44b9f4e256e8816d4f011d735513775.jpg

Finally got a chance to get this done!! Should of done the carrier upgrade as well.


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I’m sure the cops love that tucked tags. Any problems?
From a distance, tucked tags don't look tucked; they appear straight. I guess police in some areas of the US ticket for tucked tags, but in my area, they are the norm.

This is a great thread for sprocket/chain info. I plan on converting my V2 soon. Thanks, everyone!

-0260
 
What chain breaker kit is everyone using? My old one is long gone and I need something new.
 
Looking to do a 520 conversion on my 1199S. Any further distinction between my bike and the V4s, drivetrain-wise?

If I change gearing (thinking of going up one tooth in back to 15/40) am I able to adjust speedo and odometer in the dash menu? Or is there a Speedo Healer available for the 1199?


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You won't really notice anything goin from 39 to 40 in rear. Changes in speed will be minimal and a speedo healer wouldn't be necessary.

For reference, I'm on 15/42 on my 1199 and it wasn't an obvious difference. Makes low rpms a lil more manageable but that's about it.
 
Thank u double O. So you recommend going up about 3 in the rear?

How specifically do we adjust the instruments to compensate for the new gearing? I thought I read somewhere where you need to enter the new gearing in the dash for correct read out?

Greg


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Not sure about that. I think calibration in the dash (1299) is related to change of tire size. Not aware of 1199 havin something like that built in. If so, I didn't bother tryin to correct it. Here is a link that'll give you an idea of the speed relative to the gearing changes. As far as recommendations, it's really a preference. The 1199R gearing is 15/41 stock so it is +2 in rear over base and S model so i just went with a 42 and kept the front at stock.

https://www.gearingcommander.com/
 
How specifically do we adjust the instruments to compensate for the new gearing? I thought I read somewhere where you need to enter the new gearing in the dash for correct read out?

Pretty sure that the speedo reads from the wheel speed sensors (phonic wheel) so a gearing change shouldn’t effect the speedometer.

If you are changing tire size, that’s different.
 

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