Only a dyno could say for sure, but I would say air temp was THE reason your bike felt faster. Likely would have felt just as fast running 91+ (RON + MON/2).
I can't imagine anyone's ... that is so finely tuned they could detect the very very slight power advantage of using 87 octane vs 91-93, assuming it's not causing damage, which I can't say for sure. Ducati USA recommends 90+ in USA.. The amount of substances mixed with the gas is tiny relative to the whole energy output of each unit.
I don't know if there is any knock sensor built into this bike, but if it doesn't you could be causing damage and not detect it. This thing makes enough vibrations and sound to cover up mild problems IMO.
I'll stick with 91+. You obviously can decide for yourself.
How the engine is running overall is a good indicator as to the suitability of a particular fuel for a given engine.
The butt dyno is quite good at determining that from an everyday perspective.
For example we have 2 main brands of fuel to choose from here in OZ.
They're BP and Shell.
Even though they may carry the same octane rating, they do burn differently because they're formulated differently. Shell is said to be a denser fuel.
If you're tuning with carburettors , jetting will end up being different for the 2 different brands, and the jetting for shell would indicate that it may well be denser.
Obviously fuel density will affect the running of an engine regardless of the jetting required.
Now one would assume that our DUCATI's would go better on the Shell fuel, seeing as DUCATI and Shell have a close partnership regarding lube oil design and fuel. Right?
Not necessarily.
From my personal experience and from talking with other people, the vast majority of consumers would rather use the BP fuel in their stock tuned engines.
I used to be a fan of the 98 RON fuel but eventually moved to the 95 RON fuel.
It wasn't out of economics.
It was driven by the desire to run the best fuel that actually improved rideability with the stock tunes. This has largely been validated by dyno runs showing peak power numbers even though I am chasing optimised rideability throughout the rev range. The differences in peak power are quite small though, and not the focus of my efforts.
In summary, one cannot discount the butt dyno.
After all, with EFI when one dyno tunes a bike, regardless of how good the read out looks on the computer. One still has to take it for a good test ride to verify that it's all good.
If during the real world test ride one detects some things that need tweaking then it's back to the dyno to sort it out.
The end result is virtually never what the computer shows you to be the best scenario.
Butt dyno rules.