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Yes, when I had the SLR map, Frank mapped me a quick action throttle (10% quicker). Whereas, with the Woolich, I just had a dyno tune. And, I have a JetPrime quick action throttle.

I think the DimSport software gives more functionality, fosho.
 
RickD996 said:
Yes, when I had the SLR map, Frank mapped me a quick action throttle (10% quicker). Whereas, with the Woolich, I just had a dyno tune. And, I have a JetPrime quick action throttle.

I think the DimSport software gives more functionality, fosho.
Click to expand...

Interestingly I just realized that I didn’t tell him that I had the Domino short turn throttle on my bike…I also have a 15/41 sprocket setup, I found the throttle response on Deussen’s tune to be just a bit peaky at 1st, then he suggested trying it in Medium engine setting, (had it in high) and that put me right in the sweet spot where the bike was ripping on acceleration throughout the rpm range but I was still able to modulate with some finesse.
 
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craig bush said:
I wonder if that’s predominantly related to Daniel’s expertise with throttle mapping - changing the power delivered vs power requested (i.e. throttle twist). @DeussenEngines
Click to expand...

The throttle mapping on Steven's map is actually from the Akrapovic race map. But this is actually a quite heavily reworked mapping in many other areas. The Euro4 Panigale race maps benefited a bit from these changes whereas the newer Euro5 Akra race maps require some less modifications to work well.
 
Steven31371 said:
Interestingly I just realized that I didn’t tell him that I had the Domino short turn throttle on my bike…I also have a 15/41 sprocket setup, I found the throttle response on Deussen’s tune to be just a bit peaky at 1st, then he suggested trying it in Medium engine setting, (had it in high) and that put me right in the sweet spot where the bike was ripping on acceleration throughout the rpm range but I was still able to modulate with some finesse.
Click to expand...

I bet you’d get better drive with the stock 16/42. It would temper the peakiness and give better anti-squat
 
SuperDomestique said:
I bet you’d get better drive with the stock 16/42. It would temper the peakiness and give better anti-squat
Click to expand...

Yeah I will probably change it back now that I have Deussen’s tune on there, partly because it’s definitely causing a good bit of the peakiness, but also because I have enough power at lower RPM’s now that I don’t need the 15/41 setup to stay in the power band as much.

The negative is that on that particular track you can do the whole coarse in 3rd gear without ever shifting with a 15/41 setup lol

But I’m gunna be riding some tracks with some long high speed straights soon so might as well change it back.

The bike is turning really well on tip in and mid corner though as it is.
 
He's also running an extended swing arm wich very likely factors into things. Bet not on the numbers but the rider's testimony.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
He's also running an extended swing arm wich very likely factors into things. Bet not on the numbers but the rider's testimony.
Click to expand...

Maybe for many things. My understanding is that gearing is pretty straightforward - you want more torque and lower top speed, or less torque and more top speed.

Is there more to it than that at the track day level?
 
craig bush said:
Maybe for many things. My understanding is that gearing is pretty straightforward - you want more torque and lower top speed, or less torque and more top speed.

Is there more to it than that at the track day level?
Click to expand...

Well actually yes if you are also changing chain length on these bikes. If I go back to a 16/41 setup I really need to add a link or two to the chain because it’s turning really well right now. I sorta lucked into that, when I went to 15/41 I didn’t take a kink out and that lowered the rear end every so slightly, but it made the bike turn better so I want to keep the geometry where it’s at for now.

For better or worse simple gearing changes change the bike geometry significantly if you aren’t also adjusting the chain each time.
 
SuperDomestique said:
That might actually be a big positive to run the 15/41 then. Maybe trial 16/41 would be a good compromise?
Click to expand...

Yeah I was running a 16/41 setup on this track previously and was getting annoyed at where the shifts from 2nd to 3rd fell on the track, there are no long straights where you get above 120 ish, and the lowest speed corners are in the low 60 mph range, so the corners were too slow to stay in 3rd and get a good drive out of the corner and you didn’t shift to third until the end of the longer straights, so you’d have to shift then shift down almost immediately then go immediately into setting up the corner.

Made things very busy at the end of straights…with the current gearing combined with this tune giving me more power in the lower rpm’s I could stay in third, have one less thing to focus on at the end of a straight, and work on my corner entry and roll speed and line and body position and sighting etc.
 
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Steven31371 said:
Well actually yes if you are also changing chain length on these bikes. If I go back to a 16/41 setup I really need to add a link or two to the chain because it’s turning really well right now. I sorta lucked into that, when I went to 15/41 I didn’t take a kink out and that lowered the rear end every so slightly, but it made the bike turn better so I want to keep the geometry where it’s at for now.

For better or worse simple gearing changes change the bike geometry significantly if you aren’t also adjusting the chain each time.
Click to expand...

I agree - that’s all sound theory.

My assertion is that in practice, the vast majority of people at the track day level won’t appreciate these subtle differences. I suspect if you blinded the ride to the changes, 99% of us couldn’t ride two bikes back to back and consistently identify the one that’s 2mm lower in rear ride height, and a centimeter shorter in wheelbase.
 
craig bush said:
I agree - that’s all sound theory.

My assertion is that in practice, the vast majority of people at the track day level won’t appreciate these subtle differences. I suspect if you blinded the ride to the changes, 99% of us couldn’t ride two bikes back to back and consistently identify the one that’s 2mm lower in rear ride height, and a centimeter shorter in wheelbase.
Click to expand...

I dunno man, I’m still a pretty novice rider and can pretty easily tell the differences, and even if being able to feel the differences isn’t making me faster they do make me feel better or worse on the bike, which directly affects how much fun I’m having, and the rate at which I’m improving….the bike felt really good to me this weekend, and that combined with a format that let me go out and do 5 laps and rest for 10 minutes then go right back out (I approached it like interval training) allowed me to makes some pretty big leaps forward in my times and riding ability this weekend.
 
Steven31371 said:
Well actually yes if you are also changing chain length on these bikes. If I go back to a 16/41 setup I really need to add a link or two to the chain because it’s turning really well right now. I sorta lucked into that, when I went to 15/41 I didn’t take a kink out and that lowered the rear end every so slightly, but it made the bike turn better so I want to keep the geometry where it’s at for now.

For better or worse simple gearing changes change the bike geometry significantly if you aren’t also adjusting the chain each time.
Click to expand...

That's why you use a ride height tool Steven, and adjust shock length to compensate as appropriate 😉
 
Steven31371 said:
...there are no long straights where you get above 120 ish, and the lowest speed corners are in the low 60 mph range
Click to expand...
C'mon Steven, twist that bitch!

Though my slowest speed around crash hill is well below 60 :)

IMG_2104.jpeg
 

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