Bike total weight and bias

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I have a set of 4 digital Bluetooth connected scales that I weight the cats with, I’ll do the bike when I get it back, last time I weighed it, it was about 398 pounds with a full tank of gas, and weight distribution was very near 50/50.

I have the front of my bike raised to where the triples are at the very top of my front forks abs the rear is about halfway through the travel range and the rear shock spring is fairly compressed to get close to the Sag I need…so my bike is probably higher in the front and lower in the back than a lot of yours.
 
I suspect my bike weight will go up, bigger radiator=more fluid= more weight….extended swingarm a bit heavier than stock, and the IMA thumbrake stuff….the track fairings are probably a bit lighter than the stock fairings but not enough to cover the gaps, some crash protection stuff will we added will add weight too….I probably added 10 pounds to the bike since last I weighed it, now I’m curious how the extended swingarm will affect weight balance.
 
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What age is your bike? What forks? From 2020 on the front end was higher and the e std ear shock longer as well as the different dog bones…
 
I suspect that individual bike setup could swing the front rear bias by as much as 5%….2.5% either way….and it’s easier to get more aggressive turn in on these bikes via lowering the front rather than by adjusting trail with adjustable triples….a lot of variables there in just individual bike setups and geometry changes while it’s also being lightened etc etc etc that could probably move the front rear weight bias by a couple percentage points.
 
have you brought your trail back from the std 30?
Do you use a rear ride height tool.. I copied a picture of the Barni racing one and its great just like the older bikes, but I don't have a std factory datum to work to..
 
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have you brought your trail back from the std 30?
Do you use a rear ride height tool.. I copied a picture of the Barn one and its great just like the older bikes, but I don't have a std factory datum to work to..

Datum is my favorite word [emoji23]


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I suspect that individual bike setup could swing the front rear bias by as much as 5%….2.5% either way….and it’s easier to get more aggressive turn in on these bikes via lowering the front rather than by adjusting trail with adjustable triples….a lot of variables there in just individual bike setups and geometry changes while it’s also being lightened etc etc etc that could probably move the front rear weight bias by a couple percentage points.

Are you sure, that lowering the front gives a more aggressive turn in....?
 
In theory I guess you are altering the rake angle so in theory yes.. but not as substantial as really as altering the head angle 24-23. For example … but tgen of course you lose trail which is front end feel and grip and where going from 30mm trail to 28 even 25 gets you the trail back that you lost altering tge head angle.. classic Ducati problems!!
 
have you brought your trail back from the std 30?
Do you use a rear ride height tool.. I copied a picture of the Barni racing one and its great just like the older bikes, but I don't have a std factory datum to work to..

I actually increased trail to improve straight line stability under WOT, and gave up the tiniest bit of turn in to do so, which I was fine with because I focussed on reducing as much rotational mass as I could off the bike, I have ThysenKrupp wheels, Sicom rotors, about the lightest chain, sprockets, carriers, Ti fasteners on it all, Titanium axels etc….I probably took 20-25 pounds of Rotational mass off the bike which in turn reduced gyroscopic forces tremendously on the bike…..reducing gyro scoping forces that much had two affects, the bike flicks from side to side like riding on a Gnats back, but also reduced some of the feeling of stability on the bike, especially at wide open throttle coming off and apex and down the straight….so I used increased trail and now a Pierobon extended swingarm to add some stability back in.

basically I made the bike weight much lighter, but especially focussed on rotational force lightening to make it handle better then extended to wheel base a bit to make it feel both more stable and more agile.

same thing the SBK teams do but they have a much more aggressive front end geometry…..and professional riders with nearly superhuman abilities to manage that haha
 
Are you sure, that lowering the front gives a more aggressive turn in....?

there’s a lot of factors that affect that, trail settings, offset, front shock settings, etc etc etc but yeah, lower the front end to where you see a bunch of gold above your triple tree and you’re bike will dive in like mad.
 
Most supersports bikes come 'on their nose', so to speak, at the moment. This, generally gives a sensation, at road speeds, of fast steering. More often than not, if you lower the front (or raise the rear), the bike may initially turn faster, but then the rate of turn dramatically drops, and the bike 'ploughs' on, or 'understeers'. And, it becomes increasingly hard to get the bike to go around a corner, as it's not steering fast enough.
Raise the front ride height, or lower the rear, and your bike, against all logic, starts to steer faster, and with more confidence, tracking any corner you wish.

Only way to really know, is to try it though.
 
There’s more compliance with added freedom in suspension stroke. If the bike is too forward biased it will want to tip in fast but give poor feedback once tipped in and hence give less confidence in steering around the apex.

Setup is interdependent though so balance is key.
 
There’s more compliance with added freedom in suspension stroke. If the bike is too forward biased it will want to tip in fast but give poor feedback once tipped in and hence give less confidence in steering around the apex.

Setup is interdependent though so balance is key.


Not quite. With more front biased weight, you actually get loads MORE feedback, and the front feels amazing. Just doesn't turn so good...or brake as well....or, accelerate as well.
 

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