DQS not working on downshifts

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Okay that is extremely interesting because right before this track day I went to a 15 tooth front sprocket (down from the stock 16) Why would a gearing change affect shifter sensor??
i have no idea but for some reason my desperation lead to trying it and it seemed to make things work, hoping it continues to be that way until an update comes up for the ecu
 
Gearing is now stock. I had went down a tooth in the front and did the tire calibration but the QS was working after that. The bike felt a touch twitchy so I went back to the stock gearing and did another tire calibration.

Only after getting it serviced at the dealer did it start having problems.

A couple of days ago, I set the tire calibration to the default value and reset the DQS adaptives. I then re-flashed the ECU with the T800 and without using the QS got to a open stretch and did the tire calibration. The QS worked up and down every time I used it, but it was a short ride so I wouldn't consider it very conclusive. The first few upshifts were a little rough but I think that's merely an effect of resetting the DQS adaptives.
 
Yes, down one tooth in front

Maybe there is something to this hypothesis then. Changing gearing seems to impact DQS downshift algorithms. @Martini thanks for sharing the data point around gearing.

It will be a major bummer if we cannot easily change gearing without impacting DQS functionality, I definitely like the -1 in front better than stock gearing.
  1. I will do what @bp_SFV4 suggested above - redo my tire calibration and see if that has an impact.
  2. I have a note into Frank at SLR to see if the tune has any gearing parameters built into the programming.
Next track day is not for two weeks so I will report back.
 
Pure hypothesis, but I think you can change the gearing as long as you reset the adaptives, set the tire/final drive calibration to default and re-do the tire/final drive calibration.
 
Maybe there is something to this hypothesis then. Changing gearing seems to impact DQS downshift algorithms. @Martini thanks for sharing the data point around gearing.

It will be a major bummer if we cannot easily change gearing without impacting DQS functionality, I definitely like the -1 in front better than stock gearing.
  1. I will do what @bp_SFV4 suggested above - redo my tire calibration and see if that has an impact.
  2. I have a note into Frank at SLR to see if the tune has any gearing parameters built into the programming.
Next track day is not for two weeks so I will report back.
Here's what I heard from Frank.

Good morning!

Thank you for all the luv and support, I am extremely grateful. glad you are loving our tuning maps.

To answer your question; we are not 100% sure what could be causing the quickshifter issue other than the bike acceleration increased with the new shorter sprocket setup.
Try shifting at 14k rpms just a bit sooner than you usually do.
But know, there is nothing in the tune for sprockets change that will affect the quickshifter ability to fix your current issue.

1 Try reseting you Throttle TPS calibration only with the Handheld device.

From the main manu
1 select Work
2 Select Tool
3 Select Throtle Calibration
And follow the prompts.

Lmk how it goes.

Best regards
Frank,

SLR-TUNING
 
Here's what I heard from Frank.

Good morning!

Thank you for all the luv and support, I am extremely grateful. glad you are loving our tuning maps.

To answer your question; we are not 100% sure what could be causing the quickshifter issue other than the bike acceleration increased with the new shorter sprocket setup.
Try shifting at 14k rpms just a bit sooner than you usually do.
But know, there is nothing in the tune for sprockets change that will affect the quickshifter ability to fix your current issue.

1 Try reseting you Throttle TPS calibration only with the Handheld device.

From the main manu
1 select Work
2 Select Tool
3 Select Throtle Calibration
And follow the prompts.

Lmk how it goes.

Best regards
Frank,

SLR-TUNING

It sounds like Frank was not listening to you. His reference to shifting a bit sooner makes me think he was referring to up shifting issues.

Yes, I also changed MY21 V2 to a -1 front sprocket and reverse shifted the stock QS when my downshift issues started. I never had downshift issues with the stock setup, even after getting the bike (and QS) really hot.
 
I tried GP shift when my downshift problems started and it didn't make a difference. Going down one didn't immediately cause the problem. Only after a trip to the dealer did my downshift trouble start, but by then I was back to the OEM gearing. I took it back once and they were able to replicate the problem. He said he reset the adaptives, but I don't know and didn't think to ask at the time what adaptives he was talking about.
 
after a year of same issues, not consistently down shifting, sometimes worked sometimes didnt, i accidentally found the issue.. v4s race bike, gp shift.. the lower fairing was too close to the shifter and was impeding the movement of lever when shifter lever all the way up (returning slow).. stock lever, stock fairing.. gp shift.. had issues for a year and was at dealer about dozen times, replaced shift sensor, the gear position sensor ( and re-learned ) and dealer replaced other bits i dont know all .. anyway, each time the lower fairings were removed to test and diagnose at dealer, stiction issue wasnt noticed or area looked at.. then when i installed and tested on track, same issue.. after i saw that the shifter all the way up was sticking against the plastic i found a big holesaw and drilled away the fairing where it was touching.. between practice sessions .., was so mad that such a simple fix took me a fkn year to find, i assumed it was electronics issue, had so many other electronic issues i made assumptions.. anyway happy it worked, and has worked ever since .. hope this helps someone .. ps, also., if you apply any clutch lever pressure (at all) during a shift., this will also cutout up/down shifting.. hand off lever..
 
pps, have made all kinds of gearing changes, no sweat.. tire calibrated afterward just in case..
 
All of my test rides have been without the side and lower fairings.

You have to move the clutch lever pretty far before the lever acts on the clutch switch. At one point my DQS wasn't working up or down and it was a bad clutch switch. When tested with a multimeter, the switch was always closed.

Some combination of resetting the DQS adaptives, doing the gear position re-learn procedure, clearing then re-doing the tire/final drive calibration seems to have fixed my particular problem, which was only a problem after the bike went to the dealer. I still need a longer test ride to verify its working as it should.
 
after a year of same issues, not consistently down shifting, sometimes worked sometimes didnt, i accidentally found the issue.. v4s race bike, gp shift.. the lower fairing was too close to the shifter and was impeding the movement of lever when shifter lever all the way up (returning slow).. stock lever, stock fairing.. gp shift.. had issues for a year and was at dealer about dozen times, replaced shift sensor, the gear position sensor ( and re-learned ) and dealer replaced other bits i dont know all .. anyway, each time the lower fairings were removed to test and diagnose at dealer, stiction issue wasnt noticed or area looked at.. then when i installed and tested on track, same issue.. after i saw that the shifter all the way up was sticking against the plastic i found a big holesaw and drilled away the fairing where it was touching.. between practice sessions .., was so mad that such a simple fix took me a fkn year to find, i assumed it was electronics issue, had so many other electronic issues i made assumptions.. anyway happy it worked, and has worked ever since .. hope this helps someone .. ps, also., if you apply any clutch lever pressure (at all) during a shift., this will also cutout up/down shifting.. hand off lever..

Thanks for sharing your experience with the QS. I will have to see if my issue is only when covering the clutch (which could add slight pressure during braking). Or maybe it is an issue with the clutch lever switch screwing up. Good things to test (when the snow melts).
 
OK folks, I reset TPS and did a tire recalibration and did 3 sessions today. DQS is working again up and down, no issues. As a reminder, I am geared down 1 tooth in front and had DQS act up on downshifts right after regearing.

Knock on wood, hopefully the fix sticks. Doing COTA in a few weeks will report back after some more seat time.
 

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