Electrical Burns on my Ducati 848

Joined Feb 2024
50 Posts | 2+
Michigan
Clapped 848 back at it
I finally started this project, and this thing is nasty! Got it to idle, was revving a little here and there, nothing stupid. (Ears blown out tho) Then i really start considering going out for a rip. Gave it a couple revs, one nice one, one soft one. Then a bunch of smoke came out from the front sides mostly right side. I immediately turned the bike off and checked everything over visually, all checked out. Tried again and would idle good, but give it some throttle and i get an electrical burn somewhere i think, smelled like a coil pack on fire. Not those tho, rather something from behind the plastics which i will remove soon but hoping i can get a headstart to some assistance. Some things were already rig wired, i thought i was "refining" said wiring. As it turns out i know zero about electrical work. Cant think of anything i did tho really...only thing i can think of is the right side fan wasnt coming on ever, the left one that was wire rigged still works tho, i had to wire those again but should have been simple right?, i noticed that along with "the buzzing" with everything on, not running. Would diminish some as throttle was applied (trying to get gas thru). It has rig wire push button start too, and had some lights that i took off and also has some aftermarket levers with wiring to them. I got a new battery too, i can only think the throttle is making the battery juice something up too much???
 
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Since it doesn't sound like you ever got the bike hot enough to turn on the fans is one hardwired? And if so why? The fuel pump makes noise as it pressures the system up but should stop essentially immediately so after a couple of secs the bike should be quiet with the key on not running. Solenoids buzz sometimes as they're failing but the only one on those is the starter relay. Put a DVM on the battery terminals and start the bike to see if the alternator/rectifier is OK. Mid 13 volts typically. If you're seeing a lot more than that the rectifier is hosed. I'm trying to decide if you're just screwing with us.
 
Since it doesn't sound like you ever got the bike hot enough to turn on the fans is one hardwired? And if so why? The fuel pump makes noise as it pressures the system up but should stop essentially immediately so after a couple of secs the bike should be quiet with the key on not running. Solenoids buzz sometimes as they're failing but the only one on those is the starter relay. Put a DVM on the battery terminals and start the bike to see if the alternator/rectifier is OK. Mid 13 volts typically. If you're seeing a lot more than that the rectifier is hosed. I'm trying to decide if you're just screwing with us.

Also yes the left fan is hardwire. Was thinking they (shouldnt) wouldnt come on til warm but wasnt for sure
 
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Okay here is my right side. I dont see anything out of the ordinary. Although some might lol, i literally could not figure out how that damn emissions can went back on, didnt plan on it anyway but i did try lol.
 
Dont make fun of me ok. The wires under the battery all look as they were, i do remember replacing the 3 "big boy fuses" as 2 of them were all busted open from it being laid down (honestly after tearing into the bike idk how the hell i made it 40 min home lol)
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Also i dont know why the fan was hard wired nor do i know exactly why the push button to start it was added either. But judging only by the hard-to-find chinese rear caliper (maybe some other things) id say this thing had some rough owners lol
 
If the starter/kill switch doesn't work fix that first. The ECU is supposed to be turning both fans on somewhere after 100C. These bikes are notorious for killing the rectifiers. Unregulated voltage is probably close to 15 V. So borrow a meter and check it. Because if it's failed full on it's going to fry a bunch of other stuff. If you need to replace the rectifier upgrade to a MOSFET version or increase the heatsink size and improve the airflow across the new rectifier if you're replacing with a stock style one.
 
Very helpful bagman, you must be like a wizard or something. Seeing that start/kill switch is about $30, that kinda worries me, but hey its 2024 what do i know. So now should i just try to correct all the wiring best i can ? As in get the fan ... actually i think the fan is good lol but now if i tidy up wiring mess what is supposed to cover the wires and obviously the battery and where can i get? Also how about a bolt kit for these? My china plastics are real nice but the bolt kit was absolute garbage lol
 
Sorry I didn't look good enough at the pictures. That fried connector in the second picture looks like the rectifier connector. The alternator feed is coming out of the outer case. When the rectifiers are shunting to much current they melt the connector between the alternator and rectifier and fry the wires near the connector. You mentioned you replaced some fuses. The rectifier has a 30 AMP fuse. Make sure some knucklehead has not bypassed that fuse. Ducati has always put an electrical schematic in the owners manual. They have owners manuals online at the main ducati website. Don't ride that without the fixing the start/kill switch. The kill switch is under your thumb because s**t happens.
 
To be clear, the killswitch does work, its the starter button (i guess). I do not know anything electricals, the burnt bits and oily residue was all already there, i cleaned it up some. Lol. The three things i replaced are omron g8hl-h71. Those were just smashed apart from a spill, nothing compared to the 4 oil pan(?) Bolts that got sheared 75% off. Anyway, i realized i have volt meter on my jumpbox i think but there is no way im starting this thing right now lol....
 
So then, if i remove these two reds going up top to the rigged start button, just leave that? One of the black wire on the positive side also was never on anything as seen here.
20240303_221948.jpgthis is i think what u were talking about it being burned up already like that when i got along with the weird oil i wonder if they did that on purpose lol? And then behind all those guts is the mosfet deal i gotta get

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Also here are the fuses and the wire for the fan .... honestly i think i might have been fd up and changed a couple of those out just because but didnt do all of them for whatever reason haha but yeah idk what u meant by bypassing them
 
First go to ducati.com and get the owners manual so you can have the electrical schematics. The fried connector looks like the alternator/rectifier connector (yellow leads running to it). The alternator feed comes out of the left case. The rectifier should be mounted under the battery (5x3 inch with fins). These fry (the rectifiers) sometimes if the connector has too much resistance or too the bike has too little electrical output requirement (like all the lights were removed). The rectifiers work by shunting excess current. When they are constantly shunting too much they fry. If you're lucky it's just the connector. So put a meter on the bike when it running. It should be showing something in the mid 13's. If it low like 12 volts the battery is not charging. If it above 13 (like 14 plus) the rectifiers checked out. So if it's low 12's or less it's probably the connector. To verify that the alternator stator is ok if you start the bike with that connector disconnected the voltage on the yellow leads out of the case should be pretty high (like 15V). So check for output. If you have output the stator is OK. If so you can buy parts to repair the connector and it's associated leads on both sides of the connector. After that's fixed if you have only 12 volts when the bike is running the rectifier's gone. Then the best course of action is to upgrade to a MOSFET type rectifier.

Fans. These bikes (if they're like the 1098/1198's) have two water temperature sensors. One goes to the ECU and the other goes to the dash readout. If the ECU sensor fails the ECU needing a number for the motor to run puts one in, like 180/190 F. The bike will run but the ECU cannot turn on the fans. Find the sensors (they're plugged into the water plumbing on the left) and use your meter to check resistance. They should both have similar numbers. If one has checked out they typically fail open (infinite resistance). So if the ECU sensor is gone replace it and put the fan wiring back to as the factory had it. The sensors are standard electrical parts (probably Bosch) and are used on other vehicles so get the part number off the sensor and look for it online so you don't have to buy it from Ducati at some inflated price. Good luck.
 
Yes wizard bagman. Thats a lot for me to take it but what stuck out to me is too little electrical output....i think i got a pretty good battery but it was way cheaper, hopefully not too good...i suspect more of all the customization. Ill have to describe the wiring a little better when i get a moment to look at the bike, but there is definitely some non factory going on. Really hoping i can just "simply re wire bike" and make it not burn down without spending anymore money....hoping
 
(Pics out of line)So now you are saying this is the alternator ?
This black cable in my hand is connected to the on going into half the yellow bit to the right of (i think) alternator. And the two big red cable out the presumed alternator is to only the starter button.
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Okay so i got these jumper cables here, i did forget to tape them off again after starting it, i dont think not taping them off would have had any impact on my situation here, cables themselves could play a role tho idk, bhind the red wire can barely see there is some capped off sensor looking thing that seemed stock but now i have my tail light hooked up didnt check if it worked but whatever else is supposed to be back there is taped off due to aftermarket crap i just removed.
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Sorry photos might not align right but can see this oddball wire one ground can see, the other two go up to battery, the burnt end or whatever i have no clue.....lol would fool me as being factory but if you said some ..... did that with some hair straightener i would also believe this.

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I quick browsed the manual some, this is best i seen, showing my taped off bit on positive side, connected to the one going into yellow bit that i was talking about previously. The yellow bit piece is the greyed out piece on the left side, the blacked wire in the diagram on that same side, going to the alternator, is the wire i have taped off.......idk anything but why was the starter button put on the alternator and not the battery? And what if i did that? (Until i can afford more parts of course) hoping then nothing would ignite...?
 
Oh and also i seen not to rev it when cold but i was definitely giving it some revs, nothing that i would had thought to hurt anything. All new fluids, could have been some oil or coolant maybe...?? I just noticed this too my fan was rubbing my coil pack wire



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Also got this mess, messed up side goes to underside of alternator, other end goes to back plate deal looks just like the mosfet thing u were saying, that one is upright in the back more, other seems a little different and is laying flat above the other, closer out, probably visible in all pictures
 
Yep, people do move the rectifiers under the tail. But I don't see a picture of it. It's like 3 by 6 inch by 1.5 inch and finned. The connector with the 3 yellow wires (now browned) is the alternator feed. Second picture down. Should be a thirty amp fuse between the rectifier and battery. The connector needs to be replaced as the resistance is too high.
 

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