Engine Run-in debate

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SoonerNation said:
Do you change the oil to whatever you will be using in the bike from there on out? If I read correctly, the oil from the factory is a different break in oil.
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On most of my bikes I use regular dino oil during break in. Then switch to synthetic. My RC8R recommended full synth from the get go, and my Ducati dealer is telling me the same thing about the 1199...
 
11ninenine said:
^
A lot of the hard break-in beliefs are outlined by Motoman: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Have a read, and come up with your own conclusion. Cheers!
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Mmm interesting read.. Just hope it's all genuine... Kinda makes sense now, it's just £24k down the drain if it doesn't work...? All about balls I suppose, but I have to say even my dealer mention a bike they had went straight on the track from new and was broken in the hard way, and turned out to be one of the best running bikes they've had!

So how am I suppose to do an oil change after first 20 miles when I'm 50 odd miles from my dealer?

Next question how difficult is it to do one on the 1199?

Cheers.
 
^ Just change the oil ASAP - the sooner the better.

At the end of the day, break in the bike in whichever way helps you sleep at night. :) Personally, I have requested a dyno break-in.
 
I've also always followed the hard(ish) run in routine.

Put the first 70 miles on her this weekend. After she was warmed up did a few mid power runs, short shifting up at ~6k rpm, letting off for full engine braking. I increased this till I did a few full power runs, short shifting up at ~6 - 7k rpm and again letting off for full engine braking. Continue this for the first 200 miles, change the oil and gradually increase RPM till the "first service" at 600 miles.

No way I can follow the manual which suggested 6k for the first 600 miles and 7K for a further 1000 miles..

It sounds like Ducati is being overly cautious about engine failures on their all new design.
 
Our local Duc dealer had their demo bike with maybe 200 miles out on the track for a demonstration by a FAST local racer. Bike runs like a champ!
 
DRSapp said:
I've also always followed the hard(ish) run in routine.

Put the first 70 miles on her this weekend. After she was warmed up did a few mid power runs, short shifting up at ~6k rpm, letting off for full engine braking. I increased this till I did a few full power runs, short shifting up at ~6 - 7k rpm and again letting off for full engine braking. Continue this for the first 200 miles, change the oil and gradually increase RPM till the "first service" at 600 miles.

No way I can follow the manual which suggested 6k for the first 600 miles and 7K for a further 1000 miles..

It sounds like Ducati is being overly cautious about engine failures on their all new design.
Click to expand...


No im not sure I can either. I also read somewhere else on here that not a good idea to use the quick shifter either during run in... Does this apply to the hard ish run in too?
 
mat1529 said:
No im not sure I can either. I also read somewhere else on here that not a good idea to use the quick shifter either during run in... Does this apply to the hard ish run in too?
Click to expand...

Never read that. I love the slick action of the quick shifter. Nice pop of unburnt fuel while short shifting at full throttle had a buddy following giggling like a school girl. :)
 
husker1 said:
Ray916MN
Could you explain your method in a bit more detail, please as I've always done the running in thing as per the owner's manual before?

Does your proposed rev regimen run-in apply to each gear; so (for example) after the first gentle 10 miles you would do 4-6K in each gear. Complete cool down. After another 10 miles, 6-8K in each gear, complete cool down. Rinse and repeat in higher rev range. Then after you've done each rev band in every gear you would change the oil +filter.

Have I understood it right?
Click to expand...

Pretty much do it along these lines. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

There are many variations of this. All of them amount to the same thing. Hard acceleration runs at various rpm ranges in middle gears and letting the engine braking wind the engine down from peak rpms. I've never seen a regimen that had runs in each gear. Always pulls in a single middle gear with no shifting.
 
Hi Ray
Thanks for the clarification about the middle gears - as I said, I'm new to this kind of break-in routine.
 
mat1529 said:
Its the filters as well if I read correctly earlier in thread.

Has anyone else done this hard ish run in from the UK?

Any issues with warranty etc?
Click to expand...

From Ducati:
"To maintain the validity of the warranty, three services must be carried out at 1000 km (or six months), 12,000 km (or 12 months) and 24,000 km (or 24 months) by any official Ducati dealer. Warranty will be not honoured for motorcycles repaired by unofficial Dealer networks."

I didn't think that it was legal for an automotive company to force a buyer to use their own network in order to satisfy the warranty.
 
Last edited:
PannyofDoom said:
I drop the oil after the first 20 miles. Factory break in is a joke.
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I dropped the oil out of my 848 after about 100kms.

When I took it in for the first service they said, "we'll just ignore the oil change you performed that could affect your warranty won't we?"

Never understood their issue.
 
Any tips from those who have their bikes and have done oil changes?
I intend to do one at about 500klm as well as the "dealer" first service at 1000klm.

Is the cartridge filter easy to get to?
Any issues / info we need to be aware of?

Thanks.
Josh.
 
Wouldn't worry too much about oil as long as there's enough of it.

One advantage of being an old fart is experience....that is if your brain capable of accessing the info that has accumulated over the years :D

3 Things to absolutely avoid during break-in are: Prolonged idling (very important!), overheating and oil starvation.

Fuel quality is less of an issue nowadays with the smart systems but I prefer going old-school and putting the good stuff in there. Keeps things cooler.

Keep your engine under various amounts of load (accel or decel) and don't worry about getting the revs up there once in a while.

Now if I can just get mine!
 
joshinthecity said:
Any tips from those who have their bikes and have done oil changes?
I intend to do one at about 500klm as well as the "dealer" first service at 1000klm.

Is the cartridge filter easy to get to?
Any issues / info we need to be aware of?

Thanks.
Josh.
Click to expand...

x2 would be good to have some input!
 
Rhino said:
I dropped the oil out of my 848 after about 100kms.

When I took it in for the first service they said, "we'll just ignore the oil change you performed that could affect your warranty won't we?"

Never understood their issue.
Click to expand...

I sell cars and my tech's have told me that the manufacturer does have additives in the oil from the factory that are supposed to help with the break in process. Now whether that applies here I don't know...

I can't account for whether its for the engine, seals, cylinder walls, etc etc but flushing them out sooner than instructed would lead me to believe its not a good idea. I know people want to flush fluids out early to get shavings etc etc out of the pan so who's right and wrong I don't know... :confused:
 
Mitchlguzin said:
I sell cars and my tech's have told me that the manufacturer does have additives in the oil from the factory that are supposed to help with the break in process. Now whether that applies here I don't know...

I can't account for whether its for the engine, seals, cylinder walls, etc etc but flushing them out sooner than instructed would lead me to believe its not a good idea. I know people want to flush fluids out early to get shavings etc etc out of the pan so who's right and wrong I don't know... :confused:
Click to expand...

I received the same info from my dealer - If the Pani comes with breakin oil you dont want to change before the recommended interval UNLESS you can get more of the breakin oil.
 
So I take it if someone wants to do the "hard run-in," they should have the electronic braking control (EBC) set to whichever setting maximizes engine braking (i.e. minimal electronic opening of the throttle butterflies on deceleration)?
 

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