Engine Run-in debate

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So I take it if someone wants to do the "hard run-in," they should have the electronic braking control (EBC) set to whichever setting maximizes engine braking (i.e. minimal electronic opening of the throttle butterflies on deceleration)?

good point - not sure how intrusive the EBC is
 
So I take it if someone wants to do the "hard run-in," they should have the electronic braking control (EBC) set to whichever setting maximizes engine braking (i.e. minimal electronic opening of the throttle butterflies on deceleration)?

I'm no expert, but my gut feeling is to have the ebc turned off, therefore have maximum engine breaking and therefore have the most pressure, in order to bed those seals... Although I could be completely wrong and misunderstood how that works...!?
 
I'm no expert, but my gut feeling is to have the ebc turned off, therefore have maximum engine breaking and therefore have the most pressure, in order to bed those seals... Although I could be completely wrong and misunderstood how that works...!?

Yes, off - that's what I should have said, thanks for the correction!
 
By the book.

I've owned 30+ bikes and never had an issue. I'm also not worried about 1-2 horsepower.

Ducati isn't hiring engineers from Taco Bell. If doing it by the book somehow caused an issue Ducati is one warrantying the bike, and paying for the claim.

It's just my personal preference.
 
Fired up my bike this morning to put another 10 mile break in ride on it. Odometer read about 30 miles. Smoked. Did some rpm run ups in 4th, but found it difficult to really get any stress on the engine as 7k rpm translated into a bit over 100 in 4th. Decided screw it and swung by my long time Ducati tuner Doug Lofgren to see if he had time to break it in on his dyno.

Had to wait a bit, but he put the bike on the dyno. Smoked when he started it. Ran it and figured out the DTC had to be disabled since it think when the back wheel is spinning and the front isn't traction is a problem. Dohhhh!!!. Set the DTC to off and away we go. After he broke it in a quick run showed a baseline of ~179 hp.

Thing runs noticeably sharper since being broken in.

Swung by a dealer and picked up an oil filter ($29!). Got home with 75 miles on the odo and changed the oil. Pull the lower fairing panels and cover the silencers below the oil filter cover as oil will run out of the housing on to the silencers. Filter cover is a bit of a pain to get off, since there is no way to grab it. There is a pressure check valve on the end of filter. Depress with a screw driver to hook the filter and pull it out of the housing. Looked really crapped with combustion blow by. A cluster of fine metal particles were clustered on the magnetic drain plug. Doesn't seem to smoke on start up anymore.
 
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Fired up my bike this morning to put another 10 mile break in ride on it. Odometer read about 30 miles. Smoked. Did some rpm run ups in 4th, but found it difficult to really get any stress on the engine as 7k rpm translated into a bit over 100 in 4th. Decided screw it and swung by my long time Ducati tuner Doug Lofgren to see if he had time to break it in on his dyno.

Had to wait a bit, but he put the bike on the dyno. Smoked when he started it. Ran it and figured out the DTC had to be disabled since it think when the back wheel is spinning and the front isn't traction is a problem. Dohhhh!!!. Set the DTC to off and away we go. After he broke it in a quick run showed a baseline of ~179 hp.

Thing runs noticeably sharper since being broken in.

Swung by a dealer and picked up an oil filter ($29!). Got home with 75 miles on the odo and changed the oil. Pull the lower fairing panels and cover the silencers below the oil filter cover as oil will run out of the housing on to the silencers. Filter cover is a bit of a pain to get off, since there is no way to grab it. There is a pressure check valve on the end of filter. Depress with a screw driver to hook the filter and pull it out of the housing. Looked really crapped with combustion blow by. A cluster of fine metal particles were clustered on the magnetic drain plug. Doesn't seem to smoke on start up anymore.

Can you tell us your tuner's breakin method if he doesn't mind
 
Can you tell us your tuner's breakin method if he doesn't mind

No rocket science.

He uses and eddy brake controlled dyno. He set a load, and then ran the bike up to a middle rev range. Increased the load a bit while applying more throttle to maintain rpm against the increasing load. Once the load was set, he rolled the throttle slightly at it and backed off slightly and rolled at it. Did this a couple of minutes. Then backed off, reset the load and did this again. He did this a few times seemingly increasing the load each time based on how much the front end dive increased on each run.

I video'ed most of it with my cell phone. I'll try to get the video up on YouTube.
 
No rocket science.

He uses and eddy brake controlled dyno. He set a load, and then ran the bike up to a middle rev range. Increased the load a bit while applying more throttle to maintain rpm against the increasing load. Once the load was set, he rolled the throttle slightly at it and backed off slightly and rolled at it. Did this a couple of minutes. Then backed off, reset the load and did this again. He did this a few times seemingly increasing the load each time based on how much the front end dive increased on each run.

I video'ed most of it with my cell phone. I'll try to get the video up on YouTube.


Thanks!
 
I was following the factory recommended break in, however when I took my bike in for an oil and filter change at 100 miles my mechanic said I need to be harder on the bike if I want the rings to seal properly and make maximum power after break in. All I can say is I got on it pretty hard on the way home and the bike felt like a rocket... Couldn't keep that front end down. Trying to decide how hard I should be on it for the next 400 miles while I finish break in.
 

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