Finally got the 1199 on the dyno - video

My base only did 169.62 with termi slips and map What's up with that?!?! It was at a cycle gear event though...maybe that had something to do with the lower numbers?

EDIT: after watching the video again it looks like you did yours at a similar event...hmm...

Ljuice26 said:

JeffD is correct. had my dyno'ed by the same operator. My bike is stock except for the MWR HE air filter. my bike dyno'ed at 170.78. Yaman's bike was a little less at the time.

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169 to be exact !

Edit - got hold of the shop owner and his bone stock 2012 1199 pulled 169 rwhp on the same dyno/operator. He is just installing the Rapidbike module and the Rexxer flash, to be combined with Termi slips and an MWR HE filter. Looking forward to see what his new numbers are. I said I didn't care to do anything else but looking at that rich mid-range, I'd love to do something if my local dealer says it won't affect my warranty.

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Jeff:
finished the Rapid bike system and the bike would not start, vertical cylinder exhaust pipe was filled with fuel, that was my what the #$%#$%ck moment and pulled the module off and connected the bypass module which allows me to bypass the entire Rapid BIke system for trouble shooting and bike ran great!!! I have a track day coming up next week and wont mess with this anymore !!!!! I will figure it out after the homestead track day.... But the good news is rexxer flash works damn well for sure!

a major jump from stock is the PRO pipe and flash.. but it does nothing for low down sweetness..

transdesigner said:

So the extra 6+hp from the MWR is included in that, and it's 4 under the hp4 and on par with the 10R.

According to some, you'd be at 172hp without the MWR...

(As much as I joke about the MWR hp claims, I ordered one lol)

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forget claims, installed the "Street model" with SS header and termi cans + Up map, my butt dyno tells me the mid range prob (never really was a "problem") is gone and I have seen and indicated 172 mph when my previous hi was 168 indicated. 5 mph at the top with MUCH better mid-range (MWE was installed last and make most noticeable difference)makes me believe that this is the way to go.

Would love to see dyno of MWE race with my setup and then Arka full with MWE race and street. It really feels like induction is where ther factory got lazy, but that just means more fun for us!

996racer said:

It really feels like induction is where ther factory got lazy, but that just means more fun for us!

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I don't think they got lazy.
It's just that they have to balance what is going to work the best regarding servicing requirements, and having to take into consideration all aspects of the actual conditions these machines will encounter in service throughout the world for 365 days a year.

The filter technology that's in place as standard, is proven to work for virtually all manufacturers.

It's not like they say one can't run something else if required.
People who go racing will always end up pleasing themselves anyway.
It's not like the rest of us will be disadvantaged in any way by having the standard type of filter.

I do like to keep an open mind about things.
The more I look into this filter business, the more I like the MWR air filters, and the philosophy behind their design and development.

You make more power than me, however every panigale dyno graph looks like .... with the huge dip. Imagine how good the bike would feel if that wasn't there!

vwjeff said:

You make more power than me, however every panigale dyno graph looks like .... with the huge dip. Imagine how good the bike would feel if that wasn't there!

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True

But I still don't care.

I was checking out the info from Rapidbike and found out where the closed loop section kicks in. Between 4250-5500 RPM at 40%-60% throttle. At least that's what I gathered looking at their info on the 1199. The instructions say that if you increase the injector values above 5 in those cells the engine will throw a code. Might explain those AFR numbers.

Dyno'ed mine today

Best pull out of them was 174.8 hp 88.24 tq

Stock everything with slip ons and up map. Next week I will dyno again after the full Termi manifold goes on. Hope to get 180, mechanic says no way, haha.

Weird question for y'all though"¦On the second pull when the mechanic got to the top of the pull I noticed sparks (like the kind you get from a grinder on metal) come out"¦Then when he was off throttle and bike was decelerating tons of them started coming out"¦I signaled and he shut it down (He had no idea why I was doing "cease fire" with my hand)"¦I told him what I saw and he attributed it to the speed sensor disconnect, rich system, and overheated catalytic components in the slip on. I had no clue the correct answer, I have never seen that on dyno's before, and this guy is smart and knows his stuff so I was like "ok.""¦ He let it cool and ran two more pulls, no problem.

Anyone else seen that before ?

NOLA

NOLA said:

Best pull out of them was 174.8 hp 88.24 tq

Stock everything with slip ons and up map. Next week I will dyno again after the full Termi manifold goes on. Hope to get 180, mechanic says no way, haha.

Weird question for y'all though"¦On the second pull when the mechanic got to the top of the pull I noticed sparks (like the kind you get from a grinder on metal) come out"¦Then when he was off throttle and bike was decelerating tons of them started coming out"¦I signaled and he shut it down (He had no idea why I was doing "cease fire" with my hand)"¦I told him what I saw and he attributed it to the speed sensor disconnect, rich system, and overheated catalytic components in the slip on. I had no clue the correct answer, I have never seen that on dyno's before, and this guy is smart and knows his stuff so I was like "ok.""¦ He let it cool and ran two more pulls, no problem.

Anyone else seen that before ?

NOLA

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Flames yes....But sparks etc no!! Slips have no cat..so that cannot be it..... This does not sound good to me at all...

I have seen that before, it's burning carbon deposits off the top of the piston and combustion chamber, it's good for it. First time I saw that I was drag racing my buddy on his Super Glide, with my V7 Sport, he was twisting the .... out of his tractor and it started blowing sparks out of both his pipes, it was night time and very spectacular.

you wont get good numbers using that Mickey mouse blower the panigale has sensor to know how fast the air is going and she will adjust according. Nice bike by the way

Stw said:

Flames yes....But sparks etc no!! Slips have no cat..so that cannot be it..... This does not sound good to me at all...

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Me either. I have to admit I am still a bit concerned. But what could it be ? Wasn't valve breaking into bits, and compression is still there, not a ring frying"¦ Wasn't leaning out, rich if anything"¦

But it sure isn't something I have seen. I rode it for an hour after and it ran the exact same as normal.

Anyone here with empirical dyno running experience that can give a firm answer ?

NOLA.

NOLA - centeroff's explanation seems reasonable to me, especially since you report your bike is running "normal".

Regarding your dyno, as your dyno guy what other bikes he has done recently and compare you run to theirs. I compared mine to a BMW HP4 Comp that was dyno'd 30 minutes after mine and it was only 4.25 hp less. I was quite happy with that considering just a slip-on, up-map and MWR HE filter.

JeffD said:

NOLA - centeroff's explanation seems reasonable to me, especially since you report your bike is running "normal".

Regarding your dyno, as your dyno guy what other bikes he has done recently and compare you run to theirs. I compared mine to a BMW HP4 Comp that was dyno'd 30 minutes after mine and it was only 4.25 hp less. I was quite happy with that considering just a slip-on, up-map and MWR HE filter.

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They have done three other 1199's at the shop on the dyno. All pushing about the same HP (174-178). Most in my range, one was like 182 but had milled heads and they had been in the engine prior.

NObody seen this type of dyno happening ? (The sparks)

NOLA

Pull the engine out and get in there to see what bits you are missing.

Rebuild as required

Brad said:

Pull the engine out and get in there to see what bits you are missing.

Rebuild as required

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"Brad" + View post button = Asshattery.

Sigh, I knew not to hit the button. Brad, usual"¦Thank you for contributing nothing less than nothing. I am now stupider for even thinking of reading what might lay beyond the "View post" button"¦.Well,,, on the bright side it wasn't "See, exactly Ducati still sucks, and it breaks, and its too expensive, and why would you buy that, and I love my HP4, and, and, and, and"



NOLA.

bwaide said:

I was checking out the info from Rapidbike and found out where the closed loop section kicks in. Between 4250-5500 RPM at 40%-60% throttle. At least that's what I gathered looking at their info on the 1199. The instructions say that if you increase the injector values above 5 in those cells the engine will throw a code. Might explain those AFR numbers.

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True! and that is if your using the factory O2 sensors. Mine is set up where I have O2 sensors turned off (rexxer flash ) and using RB My tuning wide band O2 sensors for each cylinder. Down low I start tuning @ 3000rpm and there is absolutely no flat spot and you can small throttle openings and hold it anywhere you want, the bike is very smooth now. RB race or evo systems with my bike tuning modules are closed loop systems, certainly not like PCV auto tune or Bazzaz ZiFM .
Unit is constantly sampling and applying changes to trim map for both cylinders individually. if you need more info e-mail me: [email protected]

NOLA said:

"Brad" + View post button = Asshattery.

Sigh, I knew not to hit the button. Brad, usual"¦Thank you for contributing nothing less than nothing. I am now stupider for even thinking of reading what might lay beyond the "View post" button"¦.Well,,, on the bright side it wasn't "See, exactly Ducati still sucks, and it breaks, and its too expensive, and why would you buy that, and I love my HP4, and, and, and, and"



NOLA.

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NOLA,

Judging by your response.
I honestly think you've got me confused with somebody else

I put it to you that your distorted personal views of me are sadly starting to cloud your better judgement.

I submitted sound advise, and you seem to be focused on criticising my input.

Further, if it was my machine and I was so worried about the sparks coming out of it while it's on the dyno.
Then I would take the exact same course of action that I outlined in my previous post.
Especially given the evidence at hand, about the apparent physical condition of the engine, with no other reason "what so ever" that there is a fault with or defect with it. And I was persisting with the premise that something must be wrong.

Everything else really is pure speculation unless you get inside the engine for a visual inspection.

Seeing as you lack the fundamental reasoning as to where to start on the matter, and get to the bottom of it.
Here's a tip for you as a place to start looking.
Step 1.
Failing any conclusive results of a cylinder leak-down test on both cylinders.(with the pistons at the top of the compression stroke).
Step 2.
Pull the plugs, and put a Borescope down the holes to have an initial look for clues. (with the pistons at the bottom of any stroke you please)
Step 3.
If that still doesn't satisfy your inane curiosity.
Then pull literally the heads off.

It's really as simple as that, and cheap insurance.

Seeing as you are reluctant to accept the prima facie evidence at hand regarding the engines condition, and the reasonable explanation of the loosened carbon from the top of the piston or squish area being spat out of the exhaust.

If you want to play.
Then start to pay.

Good luck with your quest
I hope it goes well for you