Hard starting

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Now i have some tricks to try! I have been dealing with this for awhile now and today it almost got me hit!

Im in traffic and then a red light we start to move up taking up slack in the lane and the lady in front who is putting on makeup slams on the brakes so I need to do the same, well as I was pretty much idling and clutching up the lane my bike died as I had not enough throttle for the abrupt motion.

Light turns green and I am trying to start the bike, 8 times with full open throttle, i was pissed and concerned at the Nissan Pathfinder coming up fast on me like Im gonna start moving before he gets to me.

Finally it kicked over, curse words said under helmet and now Im here! I will try to look for the kinked hose, then maybe the charcol canister. This was at 7 am and temp outside was 48 def F, bike was at 189 def F. either way, I dont trust this thing when it turns off to come back online fast at all.

My rant, and thanks for the solutions to try!
 
I had it die on me today just as I'm manoeuvring through a tight gap in moving traffic, cutting round the inside......bike stalls as I pull in the clutch!

I have 12,000km on the bike and I have slipons etc so I'm assuming I have no charcoal canister. The hard starting will always happen when the bike is hot.
 
I had it die on me today just as I'm manoeuvring through a tight gap in moving traffic, cutting round the inside......bike stalls as I pull in the clutch!

I have 12,000km on the bike and I have slipons etc so I'm assuming I have no charcoal canister. The hard starting will always happen when the bike is hot.

I dont think the slipons have anything to do with the charcol canister. That canister connects to the air intake to have fumes sucked into the engine to be burned. You can see your canister when sitting on the bike right hand side in the fairing. Its a black box with a cap looking thing on top with a rubber hose connecting to it. If its there you have it.
 
I had it die on me today just as I'm manoeuvring through a tight gap in moving traffic, cutting round the inside......bike stalls as I pull in the clutch!

I have 12,000km on the bike and I have slipons etc so I'm assuming I have no charcoal canister. The hard starting will always happen when the bike is hot.

Mine has done this once. I slowed to stop at a light, pulled in the clutch and it just died. Took a sec to restart and off I went. Hasn't happened since.
 
Well, I'm a member of the hard-to-start-when-hot club as of this past weekend. I refuse to attempt to fix this myself. Not that I am mechanically disinclined. I turn wrenches for a living. But this is not my responsibility. $27k for a bike and it's under warranty? Yeah, they can figure this out. The local Duc shop seemed to not have heard of this issue. I call ........ on that. At any rate, they think the latest upmap will resolve this. I have my doubts. Bringing it in today. Will check back with results.
 
I removed my charcoal canister and haven't had the problem since!
 
Is this a PITA???

http://ducati1199.com/mechanical-technical/886-charcoal-emissions-canister.html

Things you need to buy.
Hose connector, hose clamp, and 1/4 fuel line about 1.5ft in length

1. Remove right side fairings. Both top and bottom.

2. Remove the canister from bracket by releasing the rubber strap

3. Remove the top hose coming from the top of the canister that comes from the circular base nipple. Once done plug this hose with a screw or stopper. I used the same clamp to hold my screw in place within the hose.

4. Remove the other top hose from the regular L nipple. Now connect the hose you just unplugged with the connector and clamp. Connect the additional hose that was purchased to the other end of the connector and clamp.

5. Remove the canister bracket by undoing the 3 bolts. One is to the left other in the center and the third to the right.

6. Zip tie the two hose together up to so that they don't flap around.

7. Run down the now longer hose with the connector down towards the bottom of the bike. Place it away from the exhaust. I placed mine right behind the lower radiator.

8. Put your fairings together
 
http://ducati1199.com/mechanical-technical/886-charcoal-emissions-canister.html

Things you need to buy.
Hose connector, hose clamp, and 1/4 fuel line about 1.5ft in length

1. Remove right side fairings. Both top and bottom.

2. Remove the canister from bracket by releasing the rubber strap

3. Remove the top hose coming from the top of the canister that comes from the circular base nipple. Once done plug this hose with a screw or stopper. I used the same clamp to hold my screw in place within the hose.

4. Remove the other top hose from the regular L nipple. Now connect the hose you just unplugged with the connector and clamp. Connect the additional hose that was purchased to the other end of the connector and clamp.

5. Remove the canister bracket by undoing the 3 bolts. One is to the left other in the center and the third to the right.

6. Zip tie the two hose together up to so that they don't flap around.

7. Run down the now longer hose with the connector down towards the bottom of the bike. Place it away from the exhaust. I placed mine right behind the lower radiator.

8. Put your fairings together


Great write up.... given that I have never had the hard starting issue I will bear this in mind but not look to do it unless I have issues in the future...
 
Keep in mind, some believe removing the canister, inadvertently fixed the problem by eliminating kinking in the fuel/vent lines.

I've no idea, never had a hard starting issue and took mine off straightaway anyway
 
Yea, someone else removed it and still had the problem. I almost never have it, it is definitely mechanical, I don't anything done to the ECU can fix it.
 
I was embarrassed to try to start mine in front of people after it sat for 30 minutes.

Ever since the charcoal canister was removed the bike has been perfect. Well perfect minus the rider.
 
http://ducati1199.com/mechanical-technical/886-charcoal-emissions-canister.html


3. Remove the top hose coming from the top of the canister that comes from the circular base nipple. Once done plug this hose with a screw or stopper. I used the same clamp to hold my screw in place within the hose.

4. Remove the other top hose from the regular L nipple. Now connect the hose you just unplugged with the connector and clamp. Connect the additional hose that was purchased to the other end of the connector and clamp.

I found the highlighted descriptives as being a bit confusing. I'm pretty sure neither of the nipples were "L shaped" (I might very ell be mistaken) and both hoses went into circular based shapes of sorts. Perhaps describing one as the "larger of the two circular bases" or "the smaller of the two" may lend more clarity to the instructions.

The point being is that it's important to know which hose is which!

file_zpsd3ddccf1.jpg
 
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