Ur gonna have the biggest smile in ur helmet when you finally do rev it to redline b4 shiftingLast week my bike had it's 1000km (600 mile) service. My dealer reminded me that the run in procedure is not yet complete. The recommended rev limit is now raised to 7000 rpm until 2500km. After that it's open throttle.
Not a problem for me. Being a novice to this kind of machine I'm just easing into it anyway. But I do appreciate the extra 1k revs.
Did you get yours from Fraser's too?Last week my bike had it's 1000km (600 mile) service. My dealer reminded me that the run in procedure is not yet complete. The recommended rev limit is now raised to 7000 rpm until 2500km. After that it's open throttle.
Not a problem for me. Being a novice to this kind of machine I'm just easing into it anyway. But I do appreciate the extra 1k revs.
Yep. A big factor was their service centre although far from home is easiest to get to.Did you get yours from Fraser's too?
Yeah, I have to ride up from Canberra for servicing .. pain, but like their attitude. Couldn't do enough for me. I've got about 2 weeks before I go up to do the service.Yep. A big factor was their service centre although far from home is easiest to get to.
Had been procrastinating since I first saw one at Sydney Motorbike Show 2017. Visited Frasers a couple of times to see if my enthusiasm had waned - it never did - and somehow managed to resist buying before the third production year.
I actually went to that Show to see the latest BMW R1200RS. That's what I was going to buy without a doubt. Then Ducati came along and f***ed everthing. I was literally seduced.
Anyone seeing their rear beak fluids go dark before the 600 mile service? Guessing this is normal with factory fluid but I’m at 400 miles and it looks like .... water already.
how many psi's did you exactly use while bleeding the brakes with the #1160 brembo adapter kit?liquid coal.
I just ordered the motive #1160 brembo adapter kit for my power bleeder. it's like a bean sprayer that hooks to the masters reservoirs. add a couple psi then crack the bleeders. no pumping.
with old vehicles, running the plunger past the normal travel can be a bad thing.
my opinion...
as far as breaking in a motor. the ring to cylinder surface will mate no matter what. the lands on the pistons where that flats of the rings sit, needs compression and decompression to break in properly. its why the manual states to vary engine speed during the first few 100 miles.
direct injection cars are the worst over time. the corn fuel fills the lands with poop, the rings get sticky and you start consuming oil. atf and marvel can clean them up Italian tune up style.
gears, bearings and such do have microscopic high and low spots. if you are polishing something, you start with 80 grit, 120, 240.....600, 900,1200, ect to get a nice finished surface. you cant skip a step or you will get unsatisfactory results. if you take a ring and pinion or a cam as an example, running high initial loads is going to stretch the surface and cause little pits. running something under a lighter load will smack off the high spots and sequentially work its way down to a mirror finish.
I hated metallurgy and thermo
Hello there from France !
Sorry if my English is not accurate, not my native language.
Owner of a Ducati Superlegera V4, I read carefully owner's manual, and I was surprised about what was mentioned about break-in period. Less than 6000 Rpm till 1000 Kms then less than 7000 Rpm till 2500 Kms. I initially thought about a misleading translation, imagining the second part of breaking should be a progressive linear increase of 7000 Rpm from 1000 to 2500 Kms which would lead in a 1000 RPM more every 200 Kms.
Why to think so ?
- Panigale V4 has a maximum 16,000 RPM. I do not imagine after 2500 Kms reaching 16,000 RPM when it never exceed 7,000 RPM
- I break-in all my previous motorcycles this way, without any engine problems (Kawasaki ZX-6R, Aprilia 250 RS, Ducait 748R, BMW S1000RR, BMW HP4). Engines did not have any failure, were efficient, and gave full satisfaction when using them on track (mostly) simply taking time to warm them before use.
- I was recommend such break-in by trusted mechanics till now and it looks to me more accurate to be progressive.
- I do not imagine break-in of such an engine would be more restrictive than old engines even if...who know....which lead me here to ask questions.
When asking my dealer, I was said to do following break-in (info from French tech support)
- less than 6000 RPM under 1000Kms
- less than 9000 RPM under 2500Kms going progressively to 9000 RPM
I am still sceptical, because still remaing 7000 RPMS. I would accept it for V2 maybe as max RPM is lower...but a V4 ?
I will try to contact factory and let you know. I am suprised no one did till now.
Regarding HP4 Race, I confirm there is no break in. I own one, and did not imagine doing a break-in on track (to dangerous with other riders). I assume they can do it in factory. I visted once Alpha Racing and they show me they have a tool which allow to simulate any track for engine. Changing gearing, programming whatever they want. I hope they do for HP4. Regarding changin engine at 5000 Kms, I still did not reach this limit and do not intend to change. Antother owner told me engine only has a good metrology, and it will simply loose power (I have more than enough).
Have a nice days and fun.
One week ago exaclty. And still did not do more than 200 meters to bring it into my trailer. I wanted to install protection in front of engine radiator before dring it but UPS France decided to change delivery (as usual) last minute, so I will drive without this week-endWhen do you take delivery of your v4 SL?
No I am still 3700 Kms or so and do not plan to change it. To be honest I will ask BMW a commercial gesture and hope for an engine as client relationship management was very poor (to be polite). Anyway, I will not change it at 5000 Kms.Also, have you made it to 5000km on your hp4 and needed a complete new engine?