How to: Change Oil

Hey guys question:

I just winterized my bikes, and one of the things I do is I get the bike hot, and then just drain the oil out, and replace with some generic honda racing oil for storage. I do not remove the filter, I just open the drain bolt and drain whatever comes out, then replace the bolt and fill. Well I did this with the pani, and only about 2 liters came out. Is this normal?? I drained my Daytona and got about 3 liters. Does more oil sit in our oil filter than a typical bikes filter?? Should I be concerned about this??

I know I should probably drain the whole thing, but I'm kind of torn because although I wanna get all the crud out, if I empty the whole thing then when I put the storage oil in, it's not going to get into all the places it needs to unless I run the engine, which I don't want to do with storage oil so......I go back and forth on it. What do you guys think?

Also, if you're wondering about the filter change, I change the filter in the Spring when I for sure drain all (or at least the oil in the filter as well).

....I'm guessing either no one saw my post, or no one has emptied their oil lol.

Anyone???

MacaveliMC said:

....I'm guessing either no one saw my post, or no one has emptied their oil lol.

Anyone???

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What to say, other than you have 1.7ltr of old dirty oil stuck in the filter and pump.

Remove the filter and drain the pump, to get everything out, then start the bike without filter to circulate it.

It shouldn't do any harm at all ... remember the guy that had no filter until first service

Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?

I just changed mine and don't recall that much oil coming out from changing the filter.

I did run the starter a couple times before the engine could fire, but didn't really see much more oil come out.

I just drained the oil, changed the filter, thumbed the starter a couple of times and refilled it.

Do you guys do more than that?

Went with Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10w40. $10.99 / qt @ Pep Boys. Replaced filter 2 o-rings & crush washer. $57.31.

Total cost:
Oil: $44.00 + filter, rings, washer $57.31, Beer $10.99 = $112.30.
Dealer wanted $160 + tax...

I prefer doing it myself so I could look over everything and have some quality "me time".....

southeastduc said:

Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?

I just changed mine and don't recall that much oil coming out from changing the filter.

I did run the starter a couple times before the engine could fire, but didn't really see much more oil come out.

I just drained the oil, changed the filter, thumbed the starter a couple of times and refilled it.

Do you guys do more than that?

Went with Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10w40. $10.99 / qt @ Pep Boys. Replaced filter 2 o-rings & crush washer. $57.31.

Total cost:
Oil: $44.00 + filter, rings, washer $57.31, Beer $10.99 = $112.30.
Dealer wanted $160 + tax...

I prefer doing it myself so I could look over everything and have some quality "me time".....

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I would recommend next time don't crank the bike over with no oil in it.

EvoL said:

I would recommend next time don't crank the bike over with no oil in it.

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x2

southeastduc said:

Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?

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Where else could it be ?

Maybe he could try puckering up and blowing down the fill hole, or giving the drain a good suck

Xbox said:

Where else could it be ?

Maybe he could try puckering up and blowing down the fill hole, or giving the drain a good suck

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Well, I guess the more important question at this stage would be, how much is there supposed to be?? If you drain both the filter and plug.

i believe someone posted on this tread earlier, cant remember. I change the oil, remove filter (making sure excess oil doesnt spill all over), key the bike on, but do not start, put it into 6th gear and manually move the rear wheel. that should clear out any leftover old oil. put new filter in, oil plug back, fill with oil, crank up- it does take a few tries to crank.

One more thing...

This is something I was unaware of, and I'm sure it is something that most dealerships do not do. Every two oil changes you need to clean the oil pickup gauze filter.

I have the steps in PDF format, but of course the file is too big.

Every two oil changes clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the exhaust tail pipes.
Remove the right-hand side fairing.

Loosen nut (B), release nipple (C) and remove the exhaust valve cable with guide (D).


Remove oil sump (6) by loosening screws (7) and by moving away the radiator support lower end.


Loosen screw (9) and remove the complete mesh filter assembly (8).


Clean it with compressed air, aiming the jet from the inside towards the outside.


Fit seal (10) onto oil drain plug ensuring that its sharp edge faces the oil sump.
Smear seal(10) with the specified grease and position it in the complete mesh filter assembly (9).


Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (9).
Fit the complete mesh filter assembly (8) by driving the flange fully home onto casing and tighten screw (9) to 10 Nm (Min.9 Nm - Max. 11Nm).


Carefully clean the mating surface between oil sump and casing.
Smear the oil sump surface with liquid gasket.
Centre the sump on the crankcase by means of the locating dowels.
Fit nipple (C) in the proper seat on the exhaust valve and tighten nut (B).


Position guide (D) onto oil sump starting screws (7).
Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min.12 Nm - Max.14 Nm) following the specified sequence.


Refit the exhaust tail pipes.
Refit the fairings.

Thanks for posting
That nicely adds to the knowledge base on this forum

I wonder what the tightening sequence is for the sump bolts??????

E350 said:

i believe someone posted on this tread earlier, cant remember. I change the oil, remove filter (making sure excess oil doesnt spill all over), key the bike on, but do not start, put it into 6th gear and manually move the rear wheel. that should clear out any leftover old oil. put new filter in, oil plug back, fill with oil, crank up- it does take a few tries to crank.

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Never "key the bike on" when doing an oil change.
If one moves away from the job for a while and the starter is pressed by an unsuspecting person.
Then damage may happen to the machine or a person in the vicinity.

A hot tip is to never ever leave the key in the ignition when doing an oil change or pretty much anything else on a machine. Unless it's necessary to power the machine up for some reason.
Always remove the key.
There is no purpose in turning the ignition on unless you are doing something that requires power from the ignition.


Yes by all means if it pleases you, put the bike into top gear and rotate the rear wheel in the forward direction(only) for a few revolutions.
Just until the oil flow starts to diminish, and you can hear a slurping/sucking sound in the sump. Then stop turning the rear wheel.
When one does this step, it evacuates the scavenging pump.
There will be about another 150 ml of oil that runs out of the sump as a result.

Also don't put the full 3.7 litres in as the engine will end up being a long way overfull.
Start off with 3.5 litres.
Then top off the oil level as required after the bike has been test ridden, and totally cooled off some hours later.
I recommend checking the oil level "strictly in accordance with the owners manual" the next day after the test ride.
If you start with 3.5 litres of oil it won't be too low, and it's easier to add a little later than to have to remove any at all.

bwaide said:

This is something I was unaware of, and I'm sure it is something that most dealerships do not do. Every two oil changes you need to clean the oil pickup gauze filter.

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I would presume this is included in the 15K miles service? Can anyone confirm this?

Yes.
It's standard procedure at every major, and it's a requirement.

Brad said:

Never "key the bike on" when doing an oil change.
If one moves away from the job for a while and the starter is pressed by an unsuspecting person.
Then damage may happen to the machine or a person in the vicinity.

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It's actually fine to briefly crank an engine with no oil in it. We have engine customers that have minimum "run time with no oil" tests. This is to ensure that if you are on some crazy tilt angle such that oil can't get to components, the components will be unharmed for that given period of time. Usually the time requirement is about 30 seconds for unfired and less for fired. The residual oil film on the parts protects them adequately as long as you crank it RIGHT after draining the oil so there is still the maximum amount of oil left on the parts. That said, I'm not recommending you do this frequently, just saying if done properly you shouldn't cause damage.

I'm gonna guess there isn't a way to clear the oil light?

Without the dealerships machine that is.

Alleykat said:

I'm gonna guess there isn't a way to clear the oil light?

Without the dealerships machine that is.

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Not true, you can do it yourself:

Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0 - Ducati 899 Panigale Forum

92GTA said:

Not true, you can do it yourself:

Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0 - Ducati 899 Panigale Forum

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DDS is not available to the public... even if you were crazy enough to want to buy it...

Stw said:

DDS is not available to the public... even if you were crazy enough to want to buy it...

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Please read the thread...

92GTA said:

Please read the thread...

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I did..and what I stated is correct... If anyone wants to buy other software that's fine..TuneBoy will also reset service indicator...But the support for that product is questionable at best... So buyer beware..