How to: Change Oil

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I put on front and rear stand to make enough room for drain pan. The first time I didn't change the washer and had a small leak. Be sure to change it each time.

Have not changed rubber gaskets on oil filter cap, so far so good
 
I changed the washer and there seems to be a very slight seepage. I'm going to get under it tonight.
 
Just to clarify, what are we talking about when we go hand tight then quarter turn? We are only moving the wrench 90 degrees or so? That seems like very little torque. I am so scared of the drain plug coming out and dumping oil on my rear tire at speed...
 
I think the best way we can avoid over or under tightening bolts is to get a torque wrench.

There is a thread in these forums on what would be the best range of a torque wrench to have on simple maintenance jobs for us shade tree mechanics.
 
BadBoyBeltran said:
I changed the washer and there seems to be a very slight seepage. I'm going to get under it tonight.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind the plastic pan under the bolt will collect some oil upon draining. Leave the bike on side stand and you will see excess oil seeping out from plastic cut outs. I put cardboard under it over night.
 
The drain plug was a tad loose.

I originally tightened it from the right side. Redid it on the left and put some weight on the ratchet. I added about a quarter turn to it.

Thanks guys !
 
BadBoyBeltran said:
The drain plug was a tad loose.

I originally tightened it from the right side. Redid it on the left and put some weight on the ratchet. I added about a quarter turn to it.

Thanks guys !
Click to expand...

I've been wrenching on things for 25 yrs now and do very well with "going by feel" but I'm still a firm believer in torque wrenches. I have three sizes of Craftsman Torque wrenches, 3/8" drive that measures in/lbs for the small bolts, 3/8" drive that measures from 25-75 ft/lbs, and then 1/2" drive that does 50-150 ft/lbs. I recently was given a gift of a Snap-On torque wrench that is also 3/8" drive and does 25-75 ft/lb range. It is so precise and polished that it feels like a surgical instrument. Now that I've seen that the axle nut torque on the rear end of a Panigale is 170 ft/lb range I'll need to add one more to the collection as soon as I can afford it.
 
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Does anyone know if there is a torque spec for drain bolt. Was not able to find any info
 
[ I recently was given a gift of a Snap-On torque wrench that is also 3/8" drive and does 25-75 ft/lb range. It is so precise and polished that it feels like a surgical instrument.

I also was lucky enough to receive that exact Snap-On tool as a gift. Has a special place in the toolbox.
 
For the filter cover removal, I just made this pick out of a coat hanger that fits behind the flat parts @ 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock underneath and behind the bolt holes. The small one on the below is for removing the filter itself.

Pick1.jpg


Pick2.jpg
 
Use the passenger seat bolts or similar with the tapped holes on the cover - works great, no need for a pick or coat hanger
 
fzr100098 said:
Use the passenger seat bolts or similar with the tapped holes on the cover - works great, no need for a pick or coat hanger
Click to expand...

The holes are already tapped in the 1299? I saw someone tapping them in post #53, didn't realize they are pre-tapped now.
 
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Slowdive2 said:
The holes are already tapped in the 1299? I saw someone tapping them in post #53, didn't realize they are pre-tapped now.
Click to expand...


That was me. If you read my post carefully you will see that I said it was a re post of a post a did about a year before or something similar.

If you look at my signature you will see I have a 1199S from 2012. Back then they did not have any thread in that cover. In the late 2013 or 2014 model they fixed that and put some thread in there. It actually started as a thread by Anti Hero and was for the 1199. When that thread started and when I posted the original there was no 1299.

I just reposted the thread for those that have the older model.

cheers
 
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I feel like I'm going to strip the oil filter cover bolts at 9lbs. Should I trust my wrench or my gut? Wrench is higher quality- so I'm sure it's accurate. I'd hate to strip the mount holes!
 
EvoL said:
Thank you. Just because I can afford the filter, doesn't mean it needs to be changed.
Click to expand...

I agree. On my zx10 race bike I change oil every 500km . Filter only every 1500km . I then cut it open and look for unwelcome bits. In the aviation industry, oil filters get always cut open and inspected.
 
Little tip to those like me who don't fully read the workshop manual...there's RTV (Threebond TB1215 actually) on the drain plug (from Ducati) and the manual calls for you to replace it on an oil change.

Now, most likely, if you don't clean off the threads completely like I did, you can happily remove and re-install the drain plug and the sealant will stay in place. You have a very low chance (I'd think) of actually damaging the sealer. But I noticed what I thought was a lot of junk on the threads so I thought I'd be all smart and completely clean off the threads of the drain plug and re-install it all shiny new-like. Now I have 1-2 drops of oil/day.

Details from the workshop manual for my 1199:
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (1).
Clean the threads of the drain plug and apply THREEBOND TB1215.
Refit the drain plug complete with seal (2) to the sump.
Position seal (2) ensuring that the sharp edge faces the chain-side casing.
Tighten drain plug (1) to a torque of 14 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 15 Nm).
 
bwaide said:
This is something I was unaware of, and I'm sure it is something that most dealerships do not do. Every two oil changes you need to clean the oil pickup gauze filter.

I have the steps in PDF format, but of course the file is too big.

Every two oil changes clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the exhaust tail pipes.
Remove the right-hand side fairing.

Loosen nut (B), release nipple (C) and remove the exhaust valve cable with guide (D).

Remove oil sump (6) by loosening screws (7) and by moving away the radiator support lower end.

Loosen screw (9) and remove the complete mesh filter assembly (8).

Clean it with compressed air, aiming the jet from the inside towards the outside.

Fit seal (10) onto oil drain plug ensuring that its sharp edge faces the oil sump.
Smear seal(10) with the specified grease and position it in the complete mesh filter assembly (9).

Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (9).
Fit the complete mesh filter assembly (8) by driving the flange fully home onto casing and tighten screw (9) to 10 Nm (Min.9 Nm - Max. 11Nm).

Carefully clean the mating surface between oil sump and casing.
Smear the oil sump surface with liquid gasket.
Centre the sump on the crankcase by means of the locating dowels.
Fit nipple (C) in the proper seat on the exhaust valve and tighten nut (B).

Position guide (D) onto oil sump starting screws (7).
Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min.12 Nm - Max.14 Nm) following the specified sequence.

Refit the exhaust tail pipes.
Refit the fairings.
Click to expand...

Did this last week after 5 years, 5 oil changes and 12500km road and track.
Uhhhm, I know, I'm lazy. But this time it was worth the work (exhaust slipons have to be removed :()....
 

Attachments

  • Dirty.jpg
    Dirty.jpg
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bradp51 said:
That was me. If you read my post carefully you will see that I said it was a re post of a post a did about a year before or something similar.

If you look at my signature you will see I have a 1199S from 2012. Back then they did not have any thread in that cover. In the late 2013 or 2014 model they fixed that and put some thread in there. It actually started as a thread by Anti Hero and was for the 1199. When that thread started and when I posted the original there was no 1299.

I just reposted the thread for those that have the older model.

cheers
Click to expand...

what he said was a very important mod for us early 1199s guys. it was a huge PIA to get the cover off without tapping it.
 

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