Integrated Tail Light
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What license plate holder do you use? I need one that allows the rear pegs.
Both allow rear pegs. The standard was designed to be used with rear pegs but it's also doable with the LTD.
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- Apr 25, 2012
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hi im interested in the tail light i was speeking with someone
they said i would receive some kind of invoice buy email please get back to me asap
they said i would receive some kind of invoice buy email please get back to me asap
there really isn't any dilemma, in any part of this, you should be speaking with stw, or TBOT only way your going to get what your looking for, or your a dummy!!
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- Aug 27, 2012
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Anyone who has done this, could you post a quick run down of how to remove the brake light section?
How to remove the fairings, etc. I don't want to have any "......." moments or broken clips, etc etc lol.
My kit is arriving today
How to remove the fairings, etc. I don't want to have any "......." moments or broken clips, etc etc lol.
My kit is arriving today
Anyone who has done this, could you post a quick run down of how to remove the brake light section?
How to remove the fairings, etc. I don't want to have any "......." moments or broken clips, etc etc lol.
My kit is arriving today
I'm actually in the middle of installing mine right now. If you ordered the CW FE you will get instructions that tell you how to remove it. It's pretty easy.
Although right now I'm stuck on the plate light install. I'm not electronics savvy and I have no clue how to connect the plate light wires.
Anyone with any insight? I just cut the wire from the old fender as the instructions say. I just don't know how to connect those wires to the plate light wires...
YES if you want to be clean and care about the next GUY, 1st mark which side is which using OEM connector, then CUT the connectors ON the stock tail. Reuse the plastic clips that is the easiest thing to do, BUT be sure to leave enough wire to connect to CW light and the new connectors on your integrated light. then use heat shrink when wires are exposed
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- Joined
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Ya I actually saw the CW kit has some decent instructions, I rewrote them to space them apart in microsoft word just so its easier to read everything not clumped up.
That was one part that caught my eye too was the part about the plate light.
There are 2 wires, and it says only cut one from the old fender piece and then everything should connect together with the butt connectors.
I feel like it'll make sense once it's all in front of my face but as of right now Im not visualizing it haha.
Take some pics so I see what youre seeing!
That was one part that caught my eye too was the part about the plate light.
There are 2 wires, and it says only cut one from the old fender piece and then everything should connect together with the butt connectors.
I feel like it'll make sense once it's all in front of my face but as of right now Im not visualizing it haha.
Take some pics so I see what youre seeing!
Sounds good. I'll post some up after I get home from work today. I had to stop working on it last night because I didn't have te tools to strip the wires or crimp them.
While you're working on yours can you do me a favor. Could you post a pic of the key latch (internal) for the rear seat cowl. When I removed it I didn't take a good mental image and I can't remember how it looked so I can reinstall it.
And one of the clips on your tail light when you reattach the tubing and other plastic piece. I seem to remember the clips being further in when I took them off but I can't get them to go in any further.
Thanks.
if you took off your oem plate holder, unscrew the bottom and use the turn signal wires from there, and use the plate light connector. Basically strip the wire down, either solder the wires together or use the red plasctic connector clips to splice wires. i have attached some photos for your information hope this helps. the cable for your rear seat goes under and between the rear air duct and the subframe, 1st pic, you will notice once attached that there is a little free play in the cable DO not touch the nuts to adjust, they are all like this. Hope this helps guys
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Anyone have any pics of where they put all the extra wiring? Talbot said he removes the rubber piece in the subframe and just tucks it all in there and then reinstalls the rubber around the wiring. I just wanna see a picture of it if possible.
Here's the pic of the lock. It really goes back together pretty simply. The cylinder itself only fits back in one way, the hole in the fairing has a larger notch on one end and a smaller notch on the other end, the cylinder slides in, then pop the cable support over the cylinder, then the large black nut threads back in, and then the spring fits inside the catch with the other end of it to grasp the cable latch, I took the pics with the screw off the cylinder. The cable latch sits exactly how pictured.
To reattach the latch, you insert it back onto spring first, and then wind it counter clockwise back onto the peg. Just reallign it back wit the FF5 letters on the latch by the latches star cutout.
Here's the pic of the lock. It really goes back together pretty simply. The cylinder itself only fits back in one way, the hole in the fairing has a larger notch on one end and a smaller notch on the other end, the cylinder slides in, then pop the cable support over the cylinder, then the large black nut threads back in, and then the spring fits inside the catch with the other end of it to grasp the cable latch, I took the pics with the screw off the cylinder. The cable latch sits exactly how pictured.
To reattach the latch, you insert it back onto spring first, and then wind it counter clockwise back onto the peg. Just reallign it back wit the FF5 letters on the latch by the latches star cutout.
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3mm and 4mm (or was it 5mm lol) T handle hex wrenches for the fairing bolts
1-1/16" socket to remove the nut from the lock cylinder from the right side tail fairing
A flathead screw driver
A phillips head screw driver
A wire cutter/crimp/stripping tool
Electrical tape to tidy up the license plate light wires.
Pretty sure that's everything.
1-1/16" socket to remove the nut from the lock cylinder from the right side tail fairing
A flathead screw driver
A phillips head screw driver
A wire cutter/crimp/stripping tool
Electrical tape to tidy up the license plate light wires.
Pretty sure that's everything.
Thank you.
ZIP TIES!!! make cleaner look and better to hide wires!!
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Trust Zaid on this one. I removed the locking mechanism with a screw driver and was punching myself for doing it. I mean it's very fixable but as Zaid said the cable can just be removed...
Good luck. Let us know if you need anything.
Good luck. Let us know if you need anything.
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2012
- Messages
- 80
- Location
- Northern NJ
I didnt use a socket and wrench, I just used the socket itself in my hand to get the nut off and snug it back up. 1-1/16 fits just fine. It's what I had from doing my knock sensor on my cars motor. I couldnt get the cable out of the support for the life of me.
If you're not an idiot, you wont damage anything lol. The nut was barely snug anyway, just enough to keep it from moving.
If you're not an idiot, you wont damage anything lol. The nut was barely snug anyway, just enough to keep it from moving.
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