Is this normal? Rear sprocket "wiggle"

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Noticed this while cleaning the bike and the rear sprocket has a wiggle/play.. checked all the bolts around it and everything is tight
[youtube]jahzE0OAGjU[/youtube]
 
Looks like you have fitted a QC sprocket carrier. It seems from your video that the cush drive rubbers are not seated correctly. If you re-torque the sprocket carrier nuts (you will need to hold the rear of the cush drive rubbers with an appropriate socket on the reverse side while you do this, you should find it draws the cover down onto the sprocket carrier. If not you will have to remove the sprocket/carrier assembly and check your cush drive rubbers and that they have not de-laminated. Also check the torque of the main sprocket/axle nut (230Nm is the figure posted)
 
230nm checked.. still has a play? Not sure about the crush/rubber thing you talking about. Do you mind explaining step by step? Do I have to remove the sprocket?

Everything is super tight. Main question is.. is it safe the way it is? Or it's like super dangerous? I don't mind the wiggle if it's ok to ride like this
 
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Your cush drives are not tight.

12mm on the BACK of them, and a 14mm socket on the front and tighten them back up to 44Nm

You will prob have to take the sprocket back off to do this right.

NO its not safe.

NOLA
 
That does not sound accurate. First the Nola vid is a stock carrier. The one in question is not. The one in question looks like it is missing it's spacer that goes between the axle bearing and the carrier/flange. That carrier should not have more than 1mm of play even without the Cush drive pins installed. The pins provide torsional stability for rotation. The sprocket carrier and the flange have a 1mm fit differential seated on the spacer. The sequence is spacer, sprocket carrier, flange, washer, nut. Did you put the spacer in?
 
Here is the fit between the spacer and the flange and the carrier. You can see that even with no cush drive pins installed, torqued to spec, that sprocket carrier should only very slightly be able to move which allows the cush drive system to work effectively. That carrier does not seem seated against that spacer
 

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@endodoc

Notice where I wrote "Same general idea"

Its a video of a fuking Multistrada, not even a Panigale. It was for an example of what cush drive is.

NOLA
 
That does not sound accurate. First the Nola vid is a stock carrier. The one in question is not. The one in question looks like it is missing it's spacer that goes between the axle bearing and the carrier/flange. That carrier should not have more than 1mm of play even without the Cush drive pins installed. The pins provide torsional stability for rotation. The sprocket carrier and the flange have a 1mm fit differential seated on the spacer. The sequence is spacer, sprocket carrier, flange, washer, nut. Did you put the spacer in?

I'll have to take it apart and see whats going on.. I've never done it before and I have cleaned the sprocket in the past and never noticed the play.. which is weird.....
 
Sorry Nola, Didn't mean to rain on your post. Im sitting in a fricken airport bored shitless. Anyhow, rrgermanlv, who did the QC conversion? Not you?. With the nut torqued to spec, and it assembled properly, you will not get sprocket carrier movement. Now if you did not notice this before then you may have a carrier/flange depth mismatch which i also have posted before. This is there the flange is shorter in the stack than the carrier and when torqued, the spacer will wear a nice groove in the back of the sprocket carrier (see pic) No you will for sure have play in the assembly but still not as much as what is in your video. Im guessing that the cush drives were never removed from the stock flange and went into the sprocket carrier as an assembly by whoever did it and no one bothered to look at compatibility between the carrier and the flange. That spacer keeps the whole assembly from walking itself into the swingarm. You can see the spacer without removing anything by looking behind the sprocket carrier.
 

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What endo is talking about (#6):

35132171334_f2bc2db777_c.jpg
 
Sorry Nola, Didn't mean to rain on your post. Im sitting in a fricken airport bored shitless. Anyhow, rrgermanlv, who did the QC conversion? Not you?. With the nut torqued to spec, and it assembled properly, you will not get sprocket carrier movement. Now if you did not notice this before then you may have a carrier/flange depth mismatch which i also have posted before. This is there the flange is shorter in the stack than the carrier and when torqued, the spacer will wear a nice groove in the back of the sprocket carrier (see pic) No you will for sure have play in the assembly but still not as much as what is in your video. Im guessing that the cush drives were never removed from the stock flange and went into the sprocket carrier as an assembly by whoever did it and no one bothered to look at compatibility between the carrier and the flange. That spacer keeps the whole assembly from walking itself into the swingarm. You can see the spacer without removing anything by looking behind the sprocket carrier.

I didn't do anything BUT I remember now when I bought the bike they replaced my sprocket because it had some rust...

I'm gonna have to inspect it and see what's going on...
 
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I just bought this sprocket on ebay. it is a take off from a bike with 0 miles... if I replace the one I have right now with this one, will I have everything OEM? Does my flange look OEM? (hoping the spacer is still there since I haven't taken the stuff apart yet)
s-l1600.jpg



I am just confused because my actual carrier has 6 nuts around it (not the flange ones) and the pictures I've seen of the OEM ones don't have those... what will happen then or that's just part of that "aftermarket" carrier that I have and has nothing to do with the flange?

Oh.. and how about my chain? I hope it works with the OEM carrier... I dont know if that has been replaced with another one (shorter/bigger/IDK!?) :-/
 
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This is not an area you want things to go wrong. Your stock chain pitch is 525. If that is a stock steel Ducati sprocket/integrated carrier then it is a 525 pitch. What you have on the bike now is not stock. You look to have a stock flange, flange/cush drive nuts. I cannot see the cush drives themselves but will assume they are stock. The sprocket and the carrier that you now have on your bike is not stock. You have a quick change carrier and sprocket so you can change the sprocket without pulling the flange and carrier. I have no idea what the pitch is of what you now have. If it was changed from a 525 to a 520 then that sprocket you are looking at will not work. The play you have in the drive system right now is not something I would ride on. You need to pull the assembly and see whats going on before you start buying stuff.
 
This is not an area you want things to go wrong. Your stock chain pitch is 525. If that is a stock steel Ducati sprocket/integrated carrier then it is a 525 pitch. What you have on the bike now is not stock. You look to have a stock flange, flange/cush drive nuts. I cannot see the cush drives themselves but will assume they are stock. The sprocket and the carrier that you now have on your bike is not stock. You have a quick change carrier and sprocket so you can change the sprocket without pulling the flange and carrier. I have no idea what the pitch is of what you now have. If it was changed from a 525 to a 520 then that sprocket you are looking at will not work. The play you have in the drive system right now is not something I would ride on. You need to pull the assembly and see whats going on before you start buying stuff.

The one I bought is OEM Ducati. It's the one that comes originally with the bike
s-l1600.jpg


It was $25 (I believe they go for about $120ish) so I figured I would take a chance and buy it in case I need it. But yes, I want to inspect my current setup to see what's going on.

I figured if my chain is still the same specs as the OEM and my flange is OEM, with that sprocket I bought I could probably put everything back the way it was supposed to be, just like this:
s-l1600.jpg


These are some random pics of my current set up (it's dirty as hell) in case it helps identify if I still have OEM flange/cush drives. I will take pics of everything once I take it apart
002.jpg

001.jpg

IMG_8598.jpg
 
Undo the main sprocket nut and remove the QC carrier and sprocket as one, there should be a thin washer under the main sprocket nut and when you remove the sprocket carrier and sprocket, a spacer should be lurking underneath. Leave that in place. Using a vice, clamp the rear sprocket (best to use soft aluminium jaws in the vice or plenty of soft rags) and with the correct size allen key or bit, insert this into the back of each cush drive rubber. Whilst holding the rubber, use a socket wrench to tighten the sprocket carrier nuts to 44Nm (as quoted). This should draw the two together. As I said in a previous post, if this does not work you will need to check your sprocket carrier and that the cush drive rubbers are seating properly (there should be a lip that they sit up against, machined into the QC carrier to stop them being pulled through).

If you are not confident to carry out this work I would strongly advise you to seek professional help or ask your dealer to check it. I would NOT recommend you ride the bike in its current condition.
 
I just bought this sprocket on ebay. it is a take off from a bike with 0 miles... if I replace the one I have right now with this one, will I have everything OEM? Does my flange look OEM? (hoping the spacer is still there since I haven't taken the stuff apart yet)
s-l1600.jpg



I am just confused because my actual carrier has 6 nuts around it (not the flange ones) and the pictures I've seen of the OEM ones don't have those... what will happen then or that's just part of that "aftermarket" carrier that I have and has nothing to do with the flange?

Oh.. and how about my chain? I hope it works with the OEM carrier... I dont know if that has been replaced with another one (shorter/bigger/IDK!?) :-/

At the risk of repeating others on this thread, your bike is currently fitted with a QUICK CHANGE carrier and NOT the OEM sprocket and cover. This set-up allows you to remove/change a sprocket without removing the whole assembly. You can fit the OEM carrier you just purchased if you wish, but you will have to split the sprocket cover from the QC carrier, remove the cush drive rubbers and re-fit them to the OEM sprocket, then re attach and torque up the sprocket cover and lastly re-fit the whole assembly back on the bike. Why not just check the torque of your sprocket cover nuts as explained? You dont necessarily need to be spending money. I would advise you to download a copy of the workshop manual as well, so you can better understand the processes involved. You can obtain a free copy here:

Workshop Manuals
 
At the risk of repeating others on this thread, your bike is currently fitted with a QUICK CHANGE carrier and NOT the OEM sprocket and cover. This set-up allows you to remove/change a sprocket without removing the whole assembly. You can fit the OEM carrier you just purchased if you wish, but you will have to split the sprocket cover from the QC carrier, remove the cush drive rubbers and re-fit them to the OEM sprocket, then re attach and torque up the sprocket cover and lastly re-fit the whole assembly back on the bike. Why not just check the torque of your sprocket cover nuts as explained? You dont necessarily need to be spending money. I would advise you to download a copy of the workshop manual as well, so you can better understand the processes involved. You can obtain a free copy here:

Workshop Manuals

Yes, it makes sense what you say BUT I don't feel confident now with that set up... it didn't use to wiggle before and now it's doing it after probably a year and a half.. maybe something broke? I need to inspect it and make a decision I guess
 

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