Lets Talk: 21 V4SP vs 22 V4 vs 22 V4S

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bp_SFV4 said:
Factor in that if you have to insure the bike the MSRP will have a say in how much that costs.

I would absolutely buy a base V4 if my hand was forced to make a pick tomorrow. The rear shock is the primary offender for a novice to early intermediate (track) rider and isn't hard to replace.
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The rear shock on my 23 was kind of a pain in the ass to change with the stock exhaust can. Enough so that I immediately started looking at aftermarket exhausts.
 
I bought a standard SF (used 21). This bike (which was perfect) with less than 2miles was 5k cheaper than any S I could find. Had nice rearsets, case savers, ceramic paint protection, frame sliders, cover, and pitbull stand. So for way less than the difference, TTX, arrow half system, woolich software etc. I consider the Panigale S wheels the ugliest wheels Ducati has ever supplied. So instead, I used a set of 1198S wheels (need spacers from Brembo for the front) which I had laying around. I have a spare set of revalved FGRTs which unfortunately are too short. Need to call Dan Kyle to see if there's a fork bottom which will make these work. The main problem with going the non S route is the miserable Showa BPF IMHO.
 
baggerman said:
I bought a standard SF (used 21). This bike (which was perfect) with less than 2miles was 5k cheaper than any S I could find. Had nice rearsets, case savers, ceramic paint protection, frame sliders, cover, and pitbull stand. So for way less than the difference, TTX, arrow half system, woolich software etc. I consider the Panigale S wheels the ugliest wheels Ducati has ever supplied. So instead, I used a set of 1198S wheels (need spacers from Brembo for the front) which I had laying around. I have a spare set of revalved FGRTs which unfortunately are too short. Need to call Dan Kyle to see if there's a fork bottom which will make these work. The main problem with going the non S route is the miserable Showa BPF IMHO.
Click to expand...

Have you ridden the Showa BPF fork? They're incredible. I would take them over the Ohlins any day. I was four seconds off BSB Superbike lap record on them at Brands Hatch GP circuit last year. Second or third best forks I've ever ridden/raced.

Re your forks that are too short, you can get fork extenders built into the fork cap.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks for all the comments and ideas, it was good to read through and compare my inner feelings.

Ultimately I did go with the base 22 bike, and just wow, what a step above the 2020 bike I previously had. From the first ride I was leagues above the comfort I had before. The handling, fuel tank, it just flows even better than my R1. Dare I say it "almost" feels as good leaned over as my Aprilia did.

For me, the S variants were never too appealing because I do not care for the electronic ohlins and much prefer the Showa front fork for canyon riding. Just does its job better of absorbing the bumps. The wheels were the only tempting part for me.

The SP was tempting too, but I just honestly feel like I wanted the 22 updates and would eventually regret not going that path. Aesthetics are always important but its the riding experience sensations I crave more, and I think the newer bikes deliver in this regard with whatever magic they have done. And this may seem like a stretch, but I always figured that if I wanted too, I can build my own SP2 out of this base bike if I wanted too, with whatever carbon wheels or suspension I wanted etc. Sure it won't be limited etc, but whoever buys these things and thinks they will appreciate in value is just buying into the hands of the marketing machine; there is always a sp3 or sp4 around the corner.
 
RickD996 said:
Have you ridden the Showa BPF fork? They're incredible. I would take them over the Ohlins any day. I was four seconds off BSB Superbike lap record on them at Brands Hatch GP circuit last year. Second or third best forks I've ever ridden/raced.

Re your forks that are too short, you can get fork extenders built into the fork cap.
Click to expand...

Thanks. They would actually need new bottoms for the forks anyway for the abs sensors. The showa's are probably a good fork to race with. As delivered they are crap on choppy pavement. Sharp inputs on small steps etc. Repetitive bumps and they'll skate. Springs are in the right range. The highspeed compression needs revalving for my use. So I have a set of ohlins laying around already done like I want. I was going to change the oil in the showa's but I don't think I'll get what I want. And I have every tool one needs to revalve/rebuild fgrt's. I've raced with Showa's also (916). Once revalved they were perfect.
 
The cartridge socket and fork nut tool was from Kyle racing. The cartridge clamps were made by boring appropriate size holes in a couple of 2 x 4's and the cutting them in half (then you can clamp in your vice). The bushing removal/installation tools were made on a friends lathe (justround stock turned to the appropriate sizes. You can probably find sockets or something similarily sized for the bushings removal/replacement. Soft jaw the outers to use these. Ohlins uses permanent locktite during assembly of the bushings and cartridges (and you need to use it on reassembly). So heat up everything first and watch for the smoke when the locktite checks out.
 
These aren't hard to service. Just need to be clean and careful. You can probably clamp the cartridge tubes in v clamps also. The cartridge tubes are thin so the key bit is clamp the tubes up gently so you don't distort them. The inside surfaces are highly polished and need to remain perfectly round. So the first time I used a mic to check the roundness as they were clamped up. Takes awhile for the loctite to smoke. If you are bold enough to take apart one of the shim stacks you need to know this, it is not only the order of the shims it's also the orientation (up/down). The preparation of the surface of the shims is different by orientation. This must be a fluid surface tension thing. Ohlins has good service information that you can find online.
 
BTW all the cartridge stuff is if you're revalving. Otherwise the cartridges stay together and in place if you're changing seals or bushings. Ohlins bushings have good life. At least 40 K street miles if you keep the legs clean and protected. But if you plan to live with Ohlins learn to change seals.
 
baggerman said:
BTW all the cartridge stuff is if you're revalving. Otherwise the cartridges stay together and in place if you're changing seals or bushings. Ohlins bushings have good life. At least 40 K street miles if you keep the legs clean and protected. But if you plan to live with Ohlins learn to change seals.
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Awesome... this is valuable info!
 
Great info and write up from you folks, for someone sitting on the V4 fence! Thanks guys.
 
Mr.Alex said:
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks for all the comments and ideas, it was good to read through and compare my inner feelings.

Ultimately I did go with the base 22 bike, and just wow, what a step above the 2020 bike I previously had. From the first ride I was leagues above the comfort I had before. The handling, fuel tank, it just flows even better than my R1. Dare I say it "almost" feels as good leaned over as my Aprilia did.

For me, the S variants were never too appealing because I do not care for the electronic ohlins and much prefer the Showa front fork for canyon riding. Just does its job better of absorbing the bumps. The wheels were the only tempting part for me.

The SP was tempting too, but I just honestly feel like I wanted the 22 updates and would eventually regret not going that path. Aesthetics are always important but its the riding experience sensations I crave more, and I think the newer bikes deliver in this regard with whatever magic they have done. And this may seem like a stretch, but I always figured that if I wanted too, I can build my own SP2 out of this base bike if I wanted too, with whatever carbon wheels or suspension I wanted etc. Sure it won't be limited etc, but whoever buys these things and thinks they will appreciate in value is just buying into the hands of the marketing machine; there is always a sp3 or sp4 around the corner.
Click to expand...

So the non-electronic forks are best for canyons and thus winning pinks? Am I a pussy if I don't have? Where is our canyons/pinks subject matter expert?
 

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