Low Oil Light On

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Probably. I have a car with a VDO dual sending unit for the ..... light then for the gauge. It also has an oil temp sensor to limit the cam timing change with relation to the oils temperature.

Speaking of TAs...i thought this is a criminal offense. Lol. Wtf

that’s just wrong on so many levels, but I bet the guy is cool as hell that owns it, with a good sense of humor
 
that’s just wrong on so many levels, but I bet the guy is cool as hell that owns it, with a good sense of humor
I’m pretty sure I can hunt down the appropriate “Shaker” hood scoop to match the giant chicken. The scoop with the T/A6.6 decal would fix that ride right up.
 
There was a company taking modern SS slow-maros and doctoring them to look like the late 70s screaming chickens. Slightly better than a stickers on a Porsche.
 
FWIW, I pulled the sensor and visually inspected it, looked like straight out of the factory with no oil or seapage. Threw it on the multimeter which checked out, and then put ~30psi through it with a bike pump and super ghetto-rigged connection (thanks thomasmryan!) and voila, I think I've got an OK sensor but maybe a bigger issue. Oil level is still fine at least.

Before ordering an oil pressure test kit, I decided to fire it up and see if might've just been an issue with the sensor in my head. In the "accessory" position, low oil pressure light comes on. Started it up, and light went off after about a second. Did that again today and let it run longer, no issue. I decided to ease it out of the garage and do a few slow laps around the parking lot with an eye on the dash and thumb on the kill switch, still no light. So I think I'm in the clear and just suffered a bit of new-bike memory issues.

That said, thanks for the pointers folks.
 
just temporary.

I would still be inclined to find the culprit of the light coming on since you've ruled out the switch. If pressure is slow to build and erratic, I would pop the sump and check the pick up o-ring.
 
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just temporary.

I would still be inclined to find the culprit of the light coming on since you've ruled out the switch. If pressure is slow to build and erratic, I would pop the sump and check the pick up o-ring.

Great thought, I will add to check strainer mesh for oil filter media, like many people including me had on xx99. If I remember one member lost his rebuilt motor due to strainer being packed with crap thus preventing oil supply to the pump. Take strainer of the pump and take it apart for proper inspection and cleaning.
 
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Or a boroscope through the drain hole. I use hylomar on the drain plug instead of the rtv type sealant the dealer uses.
 
from the manual on the torque chart.......'SEALING COMPOUND A on thread'.

I've pulled a snot wad out the two times the dealer changed my oil in the first year. It may not be 'room temperature vulcanizing' or three bond 'silicone thread sealant' by definition but close enough.
 
Where does it say what sealing compound A is? I presume its one of these...

1652401715387.png

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I use to work at Valvoline Instant Oil Change post high school. Miserable job but I changed a lot of oil and never once used RTV on a drain plug.

ETA: Found it. Its Three Bond 1207B.

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That's some expensive ..... I wonder how Duc shops stay profitable when they smear it on everything.

 
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nor have I but the threads are pretty coarse on the plug. Since the manual says sealant, I use some.

Hylomar is da schiit on hose fittings, metal to metal joints and as gasket dressing on rubber or paper. Paper gaskets peel right off so minimal clean up.
 
Hylomar blue?

I don't think there was any on my drain plug after the dealer did the first service. I only know because I had to drain about 3/4 of a quart after they overfilled it.
 

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