Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

Looking at it internally, I can see why the tank costs what it does. That many TIG welds has to be expensive.

No one else on the internet has a video on the inside of a Panigale V4 tank. Well done.

If you had aluminium swarf stopping the check ball I can see that being a problem for sure. But, I don't see it as a problem of preventing heat soak, but rather a problem of inadequate venting of fuel vapor. The swarf problem with the check ball is primary though. Do you have pics of it seized or the shavings/swarf interfering with the check ball?

you got it boss, its nice to know what the inside looks like to understand how things work.
and yes alot of work goes into this tank, and its aluminum to boot

Well done

thanks, now i just need to figure out whats wrong with it.. im hoping it was as simple as that check valve having aluminum shavings in it and being stuck open was the fix, just waiting for a hot day

1hander said:

you got it boss, its nice to know what the inside looks like to understand how things work.
and yes alot of work goes into this tank, and its aluminum to boot

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Its THIN aluminium to boot. When I had my tank empty and the pump and all hardware removed, I was surprised at how light it was. It felt like I could dent it with my thumb with enough hate applied.

of you push on it just hard enough you can see it flex.

That's my point though. You'd have to be super careful when welding to not warp it.

seems like a bitch to work on for sure

it got hot enough today to get out and get some heat in the tank. i got it toasty till the fuel light came on then came back and theres was no pressure building in the tank, buutttt there as very litt;e fuel in the tank..and the gurgling seened to be way less than before. the more fuel in the tank, the more vapor is produced so i have to do another test will about 90 percent fuel level to check vapors pressures them if theres little to no pressure then at least that is fixed. but i got back my my boy helped me take the tahk off and heres where we are , sorry for all the damn haacking and coughing, my throat is dry as satans ass crack.

this is how much air develops in the feed line after 20 minutes of sitting after riding, this cannot be normal.


heres the source of the gurgling , the really terrifying thing here is that it looks like the bubbles are coming from way down low on the base, i freakin out hoping its not a crack in the fuel delivery hardline where its welded to the base, because that would entail cutting open the damn tank to weld up the leak or crack. im hoping its not that and even of theres no a crack these bubbles would indicate that im losing fuel pressure at the source of these leaks when the system us pressurized


a test we did with air pressure to try to track down the source of the bubbling.


and just for ..... a short of the inside of the airbox i found fascinating


so my questions are anyone riding a panigale v4 any v4 but specifically a 2018-2019, its possible the design was changed in 2020 to address this gurgling, more likely i suspect something is broken on mine and i have yet to find it
1.do you have gurgling in the tank after you ride..
2. do you have starting problems after your bike sits for 15 to 20 minutes after you ride.

i figured out guys, heres the vid now i just have to fifure how to fix it
it leaks with just 2 or so psi of pressure, im guessing the line pressure is at least 45psi, so it is losing fuel pressure here during operation, which could lead to a lean condition, and it almost surely is leaning a bit, so until this is fixed 100 percent it will never see any higher rpms, im glad i have yet to really let it eat. with the heat of operation, these leaks get even worse, i noticed in the other vid that the bubbles were coming from down lower. this leaking could very likely be the reason for the hard starting im experiencing sometimes, lower fuel pressure leaks means not the right amount of fuel in a system that already runs pretty damn lean for epa reasons.

the air that was leaking from the side of the housing was requiring 40+ psi of pressure. while these two leaking points only required 2 or so psi to start pissin. and like i said with heat, the plastic expands more and the leaks become far bigger, which is why its so easy for the vapor pressure to vapor lock the lines. so this is indeed the problem. the only fix i see for this is to add a 6 or 8AN inline one way valve to keep the pressure in the line and stop it from backing up and vapor locking the system, im going to add some more heat shielding directly under the pump module which will add more heat shielding directly over the rear valve cover and over the rear exhaust heat shield, its unlikely this will fix the problem but will probably help a bit. but the 1 way valve is only a bandaid imo.

1. i could try some epoxy that is made specifically to live in fuel, but its unlikely this will be a long term fix and if and when the stuff flakes or cracks off the fuel pump will suck the crap in. so thats a no go
2. im going to see if the two steel pieces will pull out if they are just pressed in which i doubt, if they do slide out, i can make some custom pieces that thread in and thread the holes in the housing and make an oring under that seals them as they thread in and seat. this will only be an option if the pieces slide out, but i suspect that the two steel inserts are made captive during the molding process of the lower fuel pump housing.
3. buy another 2018-19 pump assembly and hope it does not have the same problem
4 buy a 2020 pump assembly and maybe this was something they quietly addressed for the 2020 revision of the panigale line
5. put in a one way valve which will fix the vapor locking but not the leaking during running...then retune for the leaks, which is iffy because if the leaks are constantly changing the tune will never stay on target and that could lead to a catastrophic lean condition

so without further ado, for you viewing pleasure and disgust

Bravo! Well done on finding that

Check the part numbers, it could be that the one installed ends in "A" and the new one ends in "B" so reved up

no dice disco,
part numbers are the same for v4 and v4s from 2018-23.....16024371A including streetfighters
so maybe i just got a dud part, it happens, so im gonna wait to see what responses i get, i think ill pout up a new post with that specific questions but for streetfighters as well.

Jesus…

yea, u see why im looking for alternatives. LOL, i could try a used one. for between 125.00 to 500.00 i guess, in the mean while i tried something that looks like it may work but well see. so i put the pump back in and pressurized the line 3 psi because thats all my little vacuum pressure pump tester will go to and it holds 3psi for 30minutes and i called ot quits, but the problem will be with heat on the pumps baseplate, the heat shielding im adding should help with maybe stopping all together or limiting the expansion of the pumps baseplate to a minimum.

i also found somethin disturbing, on the mounting surface/flange of the pump assembly where it bolts the tanks surface, i noticed that when i tighten down the bolts, the spaces between bolt to bolt on the pump assembly flange are not sitting flush with the surface of the gas tank flange. there are like up bends in the plastic, where the baseplate of the pump assembly is not rigid enough to maintain flush contact with the tanks surface. that is an engineering oversight, the rubber seal is not being completely compressed in those areas, so i know for sure that by adding heat, the pump assembly base is deforming and expanding, thus the larger gurgling amount during running and heat soak

as i mentioned, the rubber orings i put in are holding to 3 psi, the problem is that by epa standards the vapor pressure in the lines is set to a max of 7.8 vapor pressure, which means i need to test to 7.8-8 psi. then if the orings are holding, test ride get it toasty and see if they are still holding (no gurgling) if they are then problem fixed. ...but the pump puts out much higher pressure than that, so theres still a chance that fuel pressure is being lost. im kinda screwed it seems either way here. my problem is that im a problem solver. but this may be as easy as just buying another pump assembly.

Ok guys I'm not trying to jinx this but I just got back from a little ride and after sitting for 20 minutes there's is zero gurgling in the tank..its obviously not hot out but I'm not sure how much the heat of the was affecting the vaporizing in the lines ..I just don't know ..you guys know this is all educated guessing lol.. . But fingers crossed after 20 mins the tank is quiet as a mouse in church..

If my fix worked then it was a combination of the heat shield I added over the valve cover ..that was a tremendous out amount of heat being pumped into the base of the pump housing . Now the shield is taking the brunt of that and the orings probly worked a bit as well.

But even on cool weather rides I could still hear a bit of gurgling

Went outsidec25 minutes after shutdown and it started on the first crank...pending hotter weather my fingers are crossed but I'm in good spirits at least

Tomorrow another test if it's hot out ..then if no gurgling or vaporlock then I can call it a good fix and the orings may be something I have to service once I n a while..

There's a few 2020 fuel pumps on eBay for around the $200 price mark. I almost want to get one as a spare.

im feelin you on that one

1hander said:

then i started to refinish the engine covers, they were facked.. some of the paint would not come off without ruining the under coat so the pain stor we go.
PPG and 650.00 bucks later here we go..i painted the woodcraft cover to match

i new this bike made alof heat so wrapped the headers and safety wired the wrap before putting on the cover and the heat shield has high temp tape under it as well , i also put a heat shield kit under the seat


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Hi. What paint code for this colour?

Sutki said:

Hi. What paint code for this colour?

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hey boss, im really sorry, i looked on the can theres no paint code because i could not find a manufacturer paint so i too the case to the paint store and they did a color match to the engine case. its just marked dark gold which does not help you. im sorry.