Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

1hander said:

hey boss, im really sorry, i looked on the can theres no paint code because i could not find a manufacturer paint so i too the case to the paint store and they did a color match to the engine case. its just marked dark gold which does not help you. im sorry.

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Thanks y replay.
I guess, need to use you way also.

installed a new crank sensor and it has started every single time since then with no dramas, the old sensor had a good nit more resistance than the new one, but i dont know the serviceable limits of the sensor. but it starts first attempt since then and warms ups alot smoother and no popping . and so far i have not heard any bubbling whatsoever in the tank at all, so it seems that the orings i added are preventing the backflow of fuel and or vapors and ive had 0 pressure in the tank even with a 90 percent full tank. so things are looking much better .

got the jetprime ignition switch i got from Brian installed and secured the wires, its nice to not have the stock unit kinda flopping on the aftermarket bar.

update on the vapor locking,

it was hot enough today to get out, i had my son come incase it vapor locked on me.. it was a bad day, cuz theres a hilll country rally up there and its just tire to damn tire with harleys trikes etc etc doing 20 under the damn speed limit it was murder. but we got to leakey and waited to hear if the bubbling was there.. and drum roll please......

theres still just a bit of bubbling, about 1 blooopp every 5 seconds, so its still leaking back vaoir pressure...which means i indeed found the problem and the oring mod made a huge difference in the amount of vapor in the line able to escape back into the tank.. we waited there and had some gatorade and jerky.. LOL.. for a good 40 minutes and she fired right up... so although im not going to call it fixed its definitely a good band aid,
im gonna put an 8AN 1 way valve inline with the fuel feed line for a permanent fix i just do not believe that buying another even new fuel pump unit that those leans will be gone. so i will fix their mistake myself in a way i know is permanent.

now im having a damn problem with my damn front brake feeling mushy... if i pump it up it gets stiff again, but then 30 seconds later it feels mushy again, dont get ,e wrong its still plenty of brakes to stoppy but its feels like .... IMHO is it the lines.. is it the abs unit...air., im gonna bleed it again and use non synthetic dot3 instead of synthetic

1hander said:

and use non synthetic dot3 instead of synthetic

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Why is that? I thought Motul 660/700 would be the go-to.

I was told ..im mot sure I just wanted to see if there was a difference..that synthetic c
An Be spongy ..im not sure how that would be but I thought I'd try it it.. but it made no difference ..the only other thing it could be that I would change is brake lines or the master cylinder is bad. They got better after the fluid change but only just marginally I may just have to get used to it... theres plenty of power there but the lever feels so spongy.

I think that may be by design so a rider can better modulate the braking force. The lever feels soft, but as you wrote, there's plenty stopping force there.

I was up searching and found quite a few other instances of owners who felt the front lever was spongy... I even went to the trouble of remounting the original 16mm radial master and it feels exactly the same as the 16mm axial mount .. as far as sponginess ... I am used to and prefer rock hard brakes that take very little pressure to stoppy ...one owner went as far as replacing the calipers which was the thing that apparently changed that spongy feel ..

I will continue to ride with it but I will HH compound..even though they are hard on rotors..I have always used ebc greens but from what I can find they don't exist for the v4..I only have been able to find organic,carbon copper,ebc HH and ebc extreme HH and maybe aftermarket lines but that's as far as I will go to change the brakes to my liking for what is being used as a roadgoing bike.

one owner stated that changing/upgrading to aftermarket brake lines helped but did not remove sponginess..so like you said it may be by design ..or by design because of the Abs system involved. I will try to get used to it but I absolutely do not like it.

edit, after more research your correct Brian , ducati does set the brakes up to have a softer more progressive feel as opposed to hard wooden hitting a wall feeling that i prefer. so im going to do maybe brake lines and HH compound change i will not be changing anything, i dont like HH because they eat rotors, so brakes lines i may try to find thast more hard wall wooden feeling i prefer. but im not going to chase this rabbit too far. not really worth it to me.

I'd think a RCS 19mm would get you a super stiff feeling.

bp_SFV4 said:

I'd think a RCS 19mm would get you a super stiff feeling.

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Yes sir I believe it would but I can't mount a radial master in my configuration ..so apart from lines and pads.. im stuck with this ..I will just have to adapt ..

Have you tried vac bleeding the master or just manual?

hey disco
yea brother i have, i have tried ,
left right then master
right left then master
master then right left
master then left right
i have even removed the caliper to smack em with a wooden mallet hoping they had bubbles stuck in them, and it only improved marginally, so marginally that it could be just a psychological improvement LOL
the master is brand new but that doesnt mean its not defective in some way, i just cant see how that way would be, and since i remounted the original radial and got the same result, its something in the system other than the master, like Brian said, and others have stated its very likely by design.

i ended finding some dot4 synthetic just to try and really flush all the air out of the systerm.. we put alot of fluid through it and no bubbles were present..but the levers stiffness increased id say about 7 to 10 percent, enough that i can live with it, it may have air bubbles trapped in the abs pump but it has all the power i need to get it one the front tire so thats enough.

been busst waiting on stuff for other stuff you guys know the drill. but i finally got every thing together to start the exhaust ,,, i found 2 left and right cans, i though would look good and had a conicak shap to fit the taper of the openings left by the old exhaust, i cut the old slip joints off the old exhaust to reuse them on my exhaust, and used schedule 14 which is way to thick, but its all i could find and we decided to make our own bends with pie cuts, and i love it. the sounds it makes are just intoxicating , it is loud. the decibel meter says 124db at 2 feel when revved to 11k momentarily, cruising its at 75 its about 86 decibels i, but at idle its still got thump you feel in your gut. jeffrey a friend of the family did the tig work, i swear that boy is talented. heres some pics and vid

the spot welds were way to big cuz the mig wire i used was just what i had, took a minute to grind them down.

btw be gentle with my chicken strip fellas, i doubt ill ever get it all the way over anywhere on the street, i just dont trust the street enough to try it, track would be different but on the street, id rather have that chicken strip and not low side
but yes that my chicken strip.

hey fellas and ladies if your out there.. so its not very hot, only 87 degrees ambient and i noticed that the v4 is dripping coolant once i stop, and the bike sits.. not alot, just 5-10 drops,
but i dont think it should be dripping any.. its definitely coolant, it tastes like it LOL
so i was wondering. How in the hell is this possible with two expansion tanks in series.. i mean wouldn't both expansion tanks have to overfill before any coolant get to the drain line and hits the ground.
also im thinking this is just a weak radiator cap,
what are you all for an upgraded cap...
also theres a big hole in the map with the finished exhaust, so ill have to not ride anymore till i get it remapped. but theres definitely no chance cagers cant here this thing coming or going..its flat out ignorant..but sounds amazing.
does anyone know what the bar rating is for the factory cap
thanks in advance

i figured out why it was dripping coolant, i had unbolted the reservoir tank on the right side, it was hanging upside down and coolant got into the line then when then after riding, the litrtle that was in the line found irs way onto the ground so no biggee.
i also decided to get with daniel and his distributor out of arizona, so now just waiting for the hardware, its probably not gonna hurt it to ride it, but i would rather wait until the hole in the map is filled. and since my exhaust is pretty much the same routing as the arrow V1 slipon, it should be no problem, i also decided to remount the original clutch master on the left hand side and make a custom hose for it. my sons both ride and they want to ride mine. will just need to find another reservoir and bracket.

I found these little convex mirrors on ebay..I imused a dremel diamond wheel..to adjust the shape of the outer corners and bottom so they would match the outline better ..then stacked 2 strips of 3m vht on the inside edge to kick them outwards just a bit ..I will 3d print a spacer that fits and fills the gap later..the left one has a bit more work t I do on it...the edges of the coating tend to chip away and it looks jagged so ised 400 grit wet sandpaper to hand sand the edges till the chips were hone..the right one looks much better than the left but a little more work and they will look good ... I bought these mirrors like most for a more streamlined look but they are almost useless to look through.imo...with this little mod the sight area to the rear and the blind spot is massive ..almost as good as stock mirrors and just waiting on a reservoir for the left clutch

sooo my clutch master mod failed guys, i used a new master for the brakes for obvious reasons and one used for the clutch, it looks like te used one had water or moisture damage and the lever was collapsing today on the way back from a ride luckily was only about 3 miles away from home and my son was able to push me just fast enough to get it going..then i had to time all the lights to not catch a red.. i was think i could polish this out and rebuild if i can find arebuild kit... the scarring looks cosmetic only in the bore.

Would it be easier to get a used one from eBay vs rebuilding?

het whats up boss, i knew id hear from you.. so thank you..

well i did get that one from ebay, i think id rather ebuild because at least ill know the parts are new ... if not the psc16 goldline is still available new from italy and o ebay in the states, i prefer to buy from italy for 120 bucks as opposed to the 280.00 plus tax plus shipping. markup here in the states, i get everyone has to make a profit but DAYUMMM. only problem is i broke the reservoir nipple on this used one and i dont think im gonna be able to find that ...hell i doubt i could even get the damn thing back in LOL..
im not sure if those are scars or just surface..

Just with a quick Google search, it was easy to find a rebuild kit. I don't know if its right for that cylinder, but good to know they're out there.


Don't know if this is relevant to your master cylinder:

how to rebuild a brembo master cylinder Bevel Heaven Vintage & Classic Ducati Restoration & Spare Parts (925)798-2385 They have a lot of Brembo parts though.

I suppose you'd have to clean up the rust and see how it measures. If anything, get a used one and rebuild it straight away.