New 1199 Panigale

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Feb 17, 2013
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TOOK DELIVERY ON A NEW 1199 BASE MODEL friday afternoon Sac. Took first ride today,about beat me to death on my Ditch Grade loop,bike was delivered in F position on the rear linkage. I can see the P postion will soften it up has anyone on here swapped it over? it looks like the rod will have to be extended quite a few turns to bring ride height back. I weigh in at 190lbs with gear.
 
Give it some time to break in, get your sag set and maybe play with comp damping a bit. Base OEM spring rate's pretty decent for your weight. But yeah, plenty of threads on P vs F - search. Do note that while P will start out softer than F, it ends up stiffer.
 
Thanks, bike felt great on 36 but it is smooth with high to medium speed corners. The seat dosn't work for me,it feels like the tank needs to be 3" longer,and the forward slope taken out of the seat. But the loud handle makes up for all of it. I'm stoked.
 
If you do choose to got to Progressive from Flat (like I did), your dealer should switch it over for no charge. The bikes were supposed to be delivered in P, but I think there was a screw up at the factory on the 2012s and most went out in flat mode. Regardless, if your dealer is worth anything, they should do this without charge.
 
I was just looking through the hard cover book that came with the bike,and the photos are so clear you can see the bikes are set on P even the race track shots,and it also looks like theres alot of threads showing.Which makes me nervous,I was just looking at some forum shots of an 1199 base that had been switched to P and the rod broke the guy didn't crash,but it ruined his tyre,melted the fender and gouged up his swing arm.
Steve
 
I would guess that most of the members here have it in P unless on the track. The comfort seat takes some of the sloping out and its one of the first mods I did. The race seat does the same, but I don't have experience with it. The search feature is definitely a great feature on here as probably any question you may have has been discussed in great detail. Welcome, and enjoy your new baby!
 
Hey centeroff, yes, "p" is mucho more road friendly. I was lucky enough to have my suspension set up by Dave Mossand he said there was NO sag in the rear shock. Adjusted rear and fronts for my static weight, not optimal as I usually get my suspension dialed in by him at the track, but still night and dat difference. Hit me up for a ride sometime. I'm in sac too! Where did you pick up your Pani?
 
I'm still trying to figure out how P ends up being stiffer than F.

Grats on new bike btw!
 
I think that guy's rod broke due to dealer crossthreading or improperly tightening it. A lot of guys here are running P with no issues.

I'm still running mine on F and yes hard bumps are felt.

One of these days I'll try P just to see what it's like.

I think someone (maybe jarel?) explained it nicely. In F mode, it's a linear dampening and in P it's progressive, which makes dampening look more curved with the most applied at the end. So like earlier poster said. It'll be softer at first, but wind up harder. Which is what Trauma is also saying...

Do yourself a favor & search the forum for this. Theres some real good information.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how P ends up being stiffer than F.

Not so hard, really; imagine an X/Y graph with effective spring rate on the vertical axis and wheel travel on the horizontal. On "F" you have a relatively straight line rising to the right, whereas on "P" you have a line that curves upward, starting out flatter and lower than the F line, but curving upward and getting steeper so that it crosses the "F" line somewhere in the middle of the travel range, indicating a stiffer effective spring rate. That's why they call one Flat and the other Progressive.

"P" uses the linkage to change the effective motion ratio as the swingarm moves upwards to make the rear end stiff enough to support a passenger while making it soft enough for road use by a solo rider. What physically happens is that in the early part of the travel, 10mm of axle travel moves the shock less than 10mm of axle travel in the latter part of the travel does. In the end, you have the same amount of total wheel travel and shock travel no matter which position you put the link in, so the shock travel you don't use in the soft part of the curve you give back in the stiff part. Voila!

F does start out firmer as it's intended for track use, where you're putting a LOT more force into the suspension and want that in order to stabilize the chassis, but you get more consistent action throughout the travel with it; you just need the right spring for your weight & use. P is intended as a compromise for multipurpose use, and since most find the bike oversprung out of the box, they notice the softer initial action and think it's better.

Most sport bikes on the market come with progressive links on them, and most suspension shops sell flat (or flatter) links to make them work better for track/solo use. That's not by accident... ;)
 
Not so hard, really; imagine an X/Y graph with effective spring rate on the vertical axis and wheel travel on the horizontal. On "F" you have a relatively straight line rising to the right, whereas on "P" you have a line that curves upward, starting out flatter and lower than the F line, but curving upward and getting steeper so that it crosses the "F" line somewhere in the middle of the travel range, indicating a stiffer effective spring rate. That's why they call one Flat and the other Progressive.

"P" uses the linkage to change the effective motion ratio as the swingarm moves upwards to make the rear end stiff enough to support a passenger while making it soft enough for road use by a solo rider. What physically happens is that in the early part of the travel, 10mm of axle travel moves the shock less than 10mm of axle travel in the latter part of the travel does. In the end, you have the same amount of total wheel travel and shock travel no matter which position you put the link in, so the shock travel you don't use in the soft part of the curve you give back in the stiff part. Voila!

F does start out firmer as it's intended for track use, where you're putting a LOT more force into the suspension and want that in order to stabilize the chassis, but you get more consistent action throughout the travel with it; you just need the right spring for your weight & use. P is intended as a compromise for multipurpose use, and since most find the bike oversprung out of the box, they notice the softer initial action and think it's better.

Most sport bikes on the market come with progressive links on them, and most suspension shops sell flat (or flatter) links to make them work better for track/solo use. That's not by accident... ;)

This certainly does put it into perspective so thank you very much for the insight. I'm a little new to some of the terminology you used so just want to make sure that I am following. By over-sprung you mean that the spring was intended for a heavier rider(gathered this from bowdy's thread about Suspensionphilia)?

Reading this I am thinking about what I instructed my dealer to do which was set to P. I weigh 230 lbs with gear and plan on occasionally 2-uping. Light track use with heavy expressway use to twisties.

It seems like each setting will wear the spring differently so should I instruct F for more even wear then?

If this sets off anyone else's dead-horse meter I apologize ahead of time but one day someone else will need a ELI5 version of the topic as well. :)
 
This certainly does put it into perspective so thank you very much for the insight. I'm a little new to some of the terminology you used so just want to make sure that I am following. By over-sprung you mean that the spring was intended for a heavier rider(gathered this from bowdy's thread about Suspensionphilia)?

Reading this I am thinking about what I instructed my dealer to do which was set to P. I weigh 230 lbs with gear and plan on occasionally 2-uping. Light track use with heavy expressway use to twisties.

It seems like each setting will wear the spring differently so should I instruct F for more even wear then?

If this sets off anyone else's dead-horse meter I apologize ahead of time but one day someone else will need a ELI5 version of the topic as well. :)

Yes to the bike being sprung for a heavier rider at the rear, particularly the S. Base seems better balanced out of the box from those who've ridden both (I haven't; only my base). At your weight it might be fine or maybe even on the soft side. From your usage though, P sounds like a good overall choice. And don't even think about wear on the spring; not an issue either way.
 

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