New Translogic Shifter for the 1299. Finally (pics)

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with a strain gauge you will get better feedback in the pedal which will make it easier to sense when the pedal is released enough. If the TL solution had adjustable pressure points it would be absolutely perfect!
 
It's on order. Many thanks to everyone contributing on this thread. I'll be installing mine with CNC RPS rearsets and will report back with anything noteworthy.
 
Thanks for the input - there is a high probability you are spot on. I am running std shift pattern. It's not an issue under normal in-town road riding conditions, but when the riding gets more spirited and I shift from purposefully "thinking" about the down-shift, to letting instinct take over my foot position likely changes and I am not unloading the pedal completely.

@ Endodoc: I think Scott has a point there a lot of guys experience.

'but when the riding gets more spirited and I shift from purposefully "thinking" about the down-shift, to letting instinct take over my foot position likely changes and I am not unloading the pedal completely.'

Maybe therefore paddle (or button) shifters are so convenient. If riding is intens and your extremely concentrated with all your skills to keep balance, cornering, scanning the track, front braking, getting in position for that coming up corner.. how nice can it be to just hit the button and let the electronics do the rest?
 
Here is the complete TransLogic 1299 kit as delivered.

3 days UK to Kansas - can't complain even a little bit. My intent is to work on the install this weekend or early next week. Visually - Looks to be a direct swap from joint to joint on my CNC rearsets with the heim joints threaded all the way down.
 

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Here is the complete TransLogic 1299 kit as delivered.

3 days UK to Kansas - can't complain even a little bit. My intent is to work on the install this weekend or early next week. Visually - Looks to be a direct swap from joint to joint on my CNC rearsets with the heim joints threaded all the way down.

Let us know how it goes. I've got a set of the CNC rearsets on the way as well and I'm interested to hear what you find out.
 
My buddy has this setup on his new R1 with Attack Rearsets... Let me just say it is flawless.. Absolutely flawless.. I am doing the same to my R1 except I will be putting Lightechs on her like I have on the Duc lol.. Worth the penny..
 
Yep Attack stuff rocks. They are 20 min from the house. Have had their stuff forever. Too bad they don't do the Pani. That being said, I have zero complaints with the Lightech's. Rock solid so far.
 
I'll report back for sure. Hopefully I'll be as happy as the other guys :)

Also running the CNC Pramac rear sets and also had issues with false shifts at full throttle on my 1299S due to the factory QS so i am also looking forward to hearing the results from the TL QS
 
Also running the CNC Pramac rear sets and also had issues with false shifts at full throttle on my 1299S due to the factory QS so i am also looking forward to hearing the results from the TL QS

Yep, had a few of my own as well. I just went ahead and ordered it. I prefer strain gauge shifters. They feel much more precise.

Might have to spring for the RB unit pretty soon as well, as I'm not particularly happy with the interrupts during an upshift. I feel like there is a bit too much delay at the higher RPMs and it unsettles the chassis quite a bit during shifts at 130mph+. Hopefully the strain gauge will help with that though.
 
Well, I know what I am having my wife buy me for my birthday in September... One of these looks like just the ticket...
 
Anyone have a PDF copy of the TL QS manual they can share?
You need a serial number to download from their website...
 
Well - install on this was a piece of cake. Electrically - plug and play as advertised. Mechanically - Not quite a drop in with my CNC rearsets as it was about 3-4mm longer as supplied. I simply removed one of the red spacers and lopped off the same amount of the underlying male shaft - 5 minutes to do. Pic attached of the final installed assembly and spacer removed. This would probably be drop in with OEM rearsets as advertised by TL.

Very quick ride - 2 miles. Works as you would expect. It's a bit quicker on the engine cut as you'd expect from a strain gauge vs a micro-switch. Crisper is the best word to describe my thoughts. This WILL require you to be quicker on the shift itself as well! If you are at all lazy with the gear change this will show it. I got a couple false neatrals in the 4-5 up shift which I have never gotten before - but that's me and not the sensor. I'll end up lowering my shift lever a bit more and get the lion's share of that I believe - it's about 1/8" higher than it used to be. It's a big deal to me with short(ish) feet. I don't have the leverage all you normal sized people do :)

On another note - all this fiddling with the sensor, the linkage, shift action in general has allowed me to put my finger on what I believe is why I am struggling to shift this bike as quickly/smoothly as my RC51 with HM quickshifter. It's the strength of the springs on the shift shaft. The other bike has Factory Pro hardware inside. The effort required to move the lever up is, by my calibrated hand, roughly twice what the other is - which is as seamless as a mechanical shifter gets. So now off to order that to compliment the better shift sensor I now have installed.
 

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Just as an aside to this thread, I had been having more trouble shifting, rougher, clunkier shifts, etc. I had my dealership look at the problem and they replaced the switch (which is a piece of [email protected]) and then the mechanic took out a tiny bit of preload and BINGO!!! Back to completely perfect shifting again on both upshift and downshift.

I'm still going to replace the stock with the Translogic, due to the POS OEM switch, but anyone who is having shifter issues should make sure their mechanic is aware of these issues.
 
Just as an aside to this thread, I had been having more trouble shifting, rougher, clunkier shifts, etc. I had my dealership look at the problem and they replaced the switch (which is a piece of [email protected]) and then the mechanic took out a tiny bit of preload and BINGO!!! Back to completely perfect shifting again on both upshift and downshift.

I'm still going to replace the stock with the Translogic, due to the POS OEM switch, but anyone who is having shifter issues should make sure their mechanic is aware of these issues.

The dealership adjusted the preload on the shifter. What does that mean? Sounds like something I may want to do..
 
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The dealership adjusted the preload on the shifter. What does that mean?
The mechanic told me there's a spring in part of the quickshifter assembly and he took some preload out of that, i.e. lessened the spring tension...
 
80 - any idea what it means to "remove some preload? Is this internal to the shift shaft and associated spring or external on the sensor and assembly?
 
80 - any idea what it means to "remove some preload? Is this internal to the shift shaft and associated spring or external on the sensor and assembly?
I just looked at the parts diagram on the Ducati of Omaha site and there seems to be a couple of springs that he could be talking about. See below

Maybe 16, or 20?

p2001312478.jpg
 
Hmmm. There is also the gearbox drum flange assembly which is where the Factory Pro mod is. I believe the spring rate on the mod is different. There does not seem to be anything here that is "load adjustable" is there any adjustability in the micro switch assembly itself?
 

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