Please help

whoa. another thread going through the roof.

i am sure RSR just wanted to give you proper advise. testing and 1/4 mile'ing a bike that doesn't work properly is definitely suicidal. please keep that in mind, people don't say .... here to piss you off personally, but to save your life.

try to find someone who can measure your bike. forks, swingarm straight? tires symmetric? suspension loose? what the heck, as said, find someone who puts his life on bikes and not your lame ass dealer, who seems to have no clue.

sorry about your friend but even more for his wife, but 1. that was a while ago, and 2. we don't want you to be next.

Phil said:

whoa. another thread going through the roof.

i am sure RSR just wanted to give you proper advise. testing and 1/4 mile'ing a bike that doesn't work properly is definitely suicidal. please keep that in mind, people don't say .... here to piss you off personally, but to save your life.

try to find someone who can measure your bike. forks, swingarm straight? tires symmetric? suspension loose? what the heck, as said, find someone who puts his life on bikes and not your lame ass dealer, who seems to have no clue.

sorry about your friend but even more for his wife, but 1. that was a while ago, and 2. we don't want you to be next.

Click to expand...

UPDATE: The dealer fixed the problem. It was the bolt that goes through the rear bearing on the rear shock absorber. The bolt was not torqued all the way and was the cause of my problem.

Phil said:

whoa. another thread going through the roof.

i am sure RSR just wanted to give you proper advise. testing and 1/4 mile'ing a bike that doesn't work properly is definitely suicidal. please keep that in mind, people don't say .... here to piss you off personally, but to save your life.

try to find someone who can measure your bike. forks, swingarm straight? tires symmetric? suspension loose? what the heck, as said, find someone who puts his life on bikes and not your lame ass dealer, who seems to have no clue.

sorry about your friend but even more for his wife, but 1. that was a while ago, and 2. we don't want you to be next.

Click to expand...

Thanks Phil

elitesoldier357 said:

UPDATE: The dealer fixed the problem. It was the bolt that goes through the rear bearing on the rear shock absorber. The bolt was not torqued all the way and was the cause of my problem.

Click to expand...

So, was the bolt backing out and actually coming loose? Did this change the alignment of the rear wheel? I'm not quite following how that caused the bike to pull left.

bronch said:

So, was the bolt backing out and actually coming loose? Did this change the alignment of the rear wheel? I'm not quite following how that caused the bike to pull left.

Click to expand...

Thats got me stumped as well. How does that alter the alignment of the rear wheel ?

Well, imagine the bolt that is connecting your rear shock to your reaction rod was coming loose, and the joint to the rear shock sliding outward slightly down the bolt when you hit the throttle. It changes the geometry of the bike, and in this case, caused the front end to pull left. so the rear tire would slightly slide left and it would causing the front and rear to pivot in the same direction together, making it shorter distance minutely on the left side than the right. Also explains why my left hand curves seemed fine, but right hand curves felt stiff. That is my theory anyways.

I have been riding the hell out of it for the past few days and I confirm this was definitely the issue. Look in the spare parts manual. I believe it was the bolt on page 84, item 13 that was loose.

It was either item 13 or 18. Not sure which. I can ask my dealer next time I see them. Just know that if this happens to you, have them check the torque on those.