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Hey Chris,
What size drive is that? 1/2"? 3/4"? I usually buy all my impact sockets through McMaster-Carr. But they only have 55mm in a 1"(!!!) drive and as 6 pt only.
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Hey Chris,
What size drive is that? 1/2"? 3/4"? I usually buy all my impact sockets through McMaster-Carr. But they only have 55mm in a 1"(!!!) drive and as 6 pt only.
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I wasnt able to get mine loose with 20" wrench and 30" breaker bar so I took a ice packet and froze it in the shape of the axle and put it on the inside.Then put a torch to the nut and it can right off. Hopefully will be helpful info. for someone.
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DeWalt 1/2" drive electric impact wrench is your friend. If it can't get it off...you don't need it off.
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- Nov 6, 2012
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- Versailles, France
Please read my original post:
November 9th, 2012 06:28 AM
mahbf Hi,
It is a normal nut, but since it is tighten to 230 N.m, it can easily seize specially if you do not do it often.
I have bought a set of wheels for track days and do often this way:
Put the rear wheel of the bike against a wall or any large floor hold.
Place the bike on the side stand and engage first gear.
Heat the nut with a thermal gun, one or two minutes, until it burns when you touch it with your hand (approximately 70°C).
Stand by the right of the bike.
Place your right foot on the right footpeg and push down the rear brake with your right toe. This helps to lock the wheel while maintaining the bike securely.
Place the 55mm (12 sides) whrench on the nut with your right hand.
Push the wrench down with your left hand.
Be carefull to tighten it back to the specified torke and with the suggested additive lubricant. If you do not have this additive use Lithium grease:
M48 rear wheel nut - Rear wheel nut fastener M48x1,5 230 N.n 5% SHELL RETINAX HDX2 (on thread and under head)
Done...
November 9th, 2012 06:28 AM
mahbf Hi,
It is a normal nut, but since it is tighten to 230 N.m, it can easily seize specially if you do not do it often.
I have bought a set of wheels for track days and do often this way:
Put the rear wheel of the bike against a wall or any large floor hold.
Place the bike on the side stand and engage first gear.
Heat the nut with a thermal gun, one or two minutes, until it burns when you touch it with your hand (approximately 70°C).
Stand by the right of the bike.
Place your right foot on the right footpeg and push down the rear brake with your right toe. This helps to lock the wheel while maintaining the bike securely.
Place the 55mm (12 sides) whrench on the nut with your right hand.
Push the wrench down with your left hand.
Be carefull to tighten it back to the specified torke and with the suggested additive lubricant. If you do not have this additive use Lithium grease:
M48 rear wheel nut - Rear wheel nut fastener M48x1,5 230 N.n 5% SHELL RETINAX HDX2 (on thread and under head)
Done...
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I'm not a big fan of loosening the rear nut with bike in gear, that seems like an awful lot unneeded stress on the driveline.
My method, bike in neutral on sidestand two by four wood wedged under the back of rear wheel. Foot on brake, breaker bar and loosen.
In my experience, the single sided swingarm ducs are way overtorqued from the factory, once you've done it one time and put to the proper torque it's not too hard.
FYI, a STEEL socket (like speedymoto) is really easy to remove the nut. I usually only need to do it first time after I get the bike from new.
My method, bike in neutral on sidestand two by four wood wedged under the back of rear wheel. Foot on brake, breaker bar and loosen.
In my experience, the single sided swingarm ducs are way overtorqued from the factory, once you've done it one time and put to the proper torque it's not too hard.
FYI, a STEEL socket (like speedymoto) is really easy to remove the nut. I usually only need to do it first time after I get the bike from new.
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- Nov 17, 2012
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Looks like the Alloy socket - Don't waste your money. I've had a couple of these and finally found a steel version which I've had for two years now. plus it has the torque setting engraved.. in case you forget
https://tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_44&product_id=221
-- looks trick too
Looks like the Alloy socket - Don't waste your money. I've had a couple of these and finally found a steel version which I've had for two years now. plus it has the torque setting engraved.. in case you forget
https://tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_44&product_id=221
Thank you - ordered! Just toasted an aluminum one trying to get the wheel off to change a tire. 21" pull handle with a 3ft cheater bar on it, and the nut didn't budge. Half-inch drive just ripped the guts out of the socket. Grrr...
Guess my Dayona's going riding this weekend; always good to have a backup plan!
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Thank you - ordered! Just toasted an aluminum one trying to get the wheel off to change a tire. 21" pull handle with a 3ft cheater bar on it, and the nut didn't budge. Half-inch drive just ripped the guts out of the socket. Grrr...
Guess my Dayona's going riding this weekend; always good to have a backup plan!
-- ordered 1 myself...just got it...good addition to the toolbox
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Only 1 other person replied to the original post that the MV is reverse thread, so he was going backwards on the Ducati.
I bought my MV before the 55mm socket was common, so the next best thing is a 2 3/16" socket. It's not a perfect solution. It will mark the nut a bit. But it works.
The local dealer has had stories about bending 4 foot and longer cheater bars on some 1098 and up, as well as MV (all 55mm) nuts. Some of them are really tight, and no impact wrench outside of a 1" drive for diesels or otherwise huge anviled 3/4" drive or something would get them off. My 1/2" drive Rigid electric impact is not nearly enough on some of them. Often the nut gets really marked up or destroyed getting it off. The reason they are this tight is a mystery. This is not common, but it happens.
In this case, you put a ratcheting tie down around the circumference of the tire tightly, and tie it down to the floor or work stand the bike is on (not rear wheel stand!). Or putting the rear wheel on a 2x6 with a "soft hook" or another tie down around it to hook the ratcheting tie down into works as long as a friend (or wife in my case) can sit on the bike and hold it steady. It's better to use something that doesn't depend on the bike's (and friend's) weight just in case it's tight enough that you move the bike with the wrench, but this is a bigger problem with the MV than the Ducati.
The advice about not using an impact to tighten it is correct. Unless you're endurance racing or something of course
I bought my MV before the 55mm socket was common, so the next best thing is a 2 3/16" socket. It's not a perfect solution. It will mark the nut a bit. But it works.
The local dealer has had stories about bending 4 foot and longer cheater bars on some 1098 and up, as well as MV (all 55mm) nuts. Some of them are really tight, and no impact wrench outside of a 1" drive for diesels or otherwise huge anviled 3/4" drive or something would get them off. My 1/2" drive Rigid electric impact is not nearly enough on some of them. Often the nut gets really marked up or destroyed getting it off. The reason they are this tight is a mystery. This is not common, but it happens.
In this case, you put a ratcheting tie down around the circumference of the tire tightly, and tie it down to the floor or work stand the bike is on (not rear wheel stand!). Or putting the rear wheel on a 2x6 with a "soft hook" or another tie down around it to hook the ratcheting tie down into works as long as a friend (or wife in my case) can sit on the bike and hold it steady. It's better to use something that doesn't depend on the bike's (and friend's) weight just in case it's tight enough that you move the bike with the wrench, but this is a bigger problem with the MV than the Ducati.
The advice about not using an impact to tighten it is correct. Unless you're endurance racing or something of course
Heat gun
Tried mine today, very tough, used a 3 foot cheater and with a flat and the rear brake applied it wouldn't budge. Used my cheap heat gun, heated for about 5 minutes evenly around the nut, then used my 1/2" drive bar only, tapped it with a hammer near te socket while applying pressure to the bar (mimics an impact if you don't have one- just be careful and keep an eye on the socket to make sure it keeps square). After hitting it about 10 times, dropped the hammer, used full leverage on the bar and it came off easy. The heat gun was the key for me! Thanks for the tips all
Tried mine today, very tough, used a 3 foot cheater and with a flat and the rear brake applied it wouldn't budge. Used my cheap heat gun, heated for about 5 minutes evenly around the nut, then used my 1/2" drive bar only, tapped it with a hammer near te socket while applying pressure to the bar (mimics an impact if you don't have one- just be careful and keep an eye on the socket to make sure it keeps square). After hitting it about 10 times, dropped the hammer, used full leverage on the bar and it came off easy. The heat gun was the key for me! Thanks for the tips all
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Personally 230 nm is too much . I set my wrench at around 190 nm seems plenty .
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that absolutely goes against everything I've ever been told about taking off the nut, I've always been told specifically to have the bike in neutral so you stress the driveline, and in my experience the wheels are torqued way past spec from the factory.
Impact wrench best thing in the world to get a fussy nut off.
Impact wrench best thing in the world to get a fussy nut off.
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- Nov 17, 2012
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Impact gun did mine easily as well - I didn't own one so I added 1 to the tool box
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-- makes sense...but some of us enjoy this chatter thru the cold winter months - not saying i do......just "some of us"
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- 551
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- Philippines
1199 Panigale's : CounterClockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
MVAgusta's do it the opposite direction: Clockwise to loosen and counterclockwise to tighten.
You were actually tightening it more by doing it in the clockwise direction! WRONG!
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