rear wheel nut removal

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x2 on that TPO socket.

Best advice for removing the rear:
Tie down the wheel to something unmovable (I used a ratcheting tie down attached to the base of my Pitbull stand). And then crank away with a breaker bar. Easy one-man operation and you don't have to fk with an impact wrench (my impact wrench didn't do squat).
 
AntiHero said:
x2 on that TPO socket.

Best advice for removing the rear:
Tie down the wheel to something unmovable (I used a ratcheting tie down attached to the base of my Pitbull stand). And then crank away with a breaker bar. Easy one-man operation and you don't have to fk with an impact wrench (my impact wrench didn't do squat).
Click to expand...

...so funny how "genius minds" do things differently ;)

an impact wrench saved me from the tie-down step - just 2 or 3 hits on the trigger spins the rear nut off right away....i use an air powered one, but i hear others praise the battery ones as well.....
 
Are you using the rear brake to hold the rear wheel? I have a cheap harbor frieght impact and it takes a bit of impact before coming loose. I also only torque the nut down to about 160 ft/lbs. My bike is race only as well. My next recommendation would be to heat up the nut the best you can...then try again. If that does not work, there may be something else going on. Is this the 1st time you have tried to remove it? These just ideas based on my experience. I am not saying they are the best, only that this is what works for me. Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Local garage changed the tyre last time and they said it was a bitch to come off then.
I've put some wd40 in to soak overnight, will try heat gun and breaker bar tomorrow.

I didn't have the rear brake on, just in gear as per service manual, but will try with brake on tomorrow.
 
You might need to keep the impact on it for 10-15 seconds.

On my Multi, but the Pani is no different

[youtube]t_9LN2OyZzE[/youtube]
 
yep, just like the video. I have an air impact wrench rated to 800lb/ft. For about 3-4 seconds, it's just hammering and it looks like nothing is moving. Then....it starts to go. Just hold it on there and keep the trigger pulled - it'll come off :)
 
so I'm reviving this god damn thread... Was going to get the wheel of myself, as usually when I'm getting a new set of tires I just take the bike to the shop, this time I thought I'd get this done myself. Even the shop had issues removing the rear wheel off in the past...

I tried the breaker bar with N in place and a buddy holding down the brake pedal, NADA. I resorted to my DeWalt impact wrench, NADA. I decided to pull up the shop manual and in there they call for putting the bike in gear to remove the nut, however as everyone else I'm not a fan of stressing the transmission... Are the people in Bologna nuts, or is it in fact safe to put the bike in gear?

I'm going to try a few other tricks that I've read on here, but I'd like to get this done myself a few times so I can easily replicate this at the track. Rant over.
 
Your are not stressing your transmission, it undergoes much more load than 173ft/lbs.

Worst case scenarios, your clutch will slip or you'd bust your rear chain, that's not going to happen unless you turn green when you get angry, you just don't have the strength.

Use my DeWalt Electric Impact wrench. Never struggled to get my 996, 1098, Multistrada and 1299, plus a bunch of friend's Monster rear wheel nut off.

[youtube]t_9LN2OyZzE[/youtube]
 
maslov said:
so I'm reviving this god damn thread... Was going to get the wheel of myself, as usually when I'm getting a new set of tires I just take the bike to the shop, this time I thought I'd get this done myself. Even the shop had issues removing the rear wheel off in the past...

I tried the breaker bar with N in place and a buddy holding down the brake pedal, NADA. I resorted to my DeWalt impact wrench, NADA. I decided to pull up the shop manual and in there they call for putting the bike in gear to remove the nut, however as everyone else I'm not a fan of stressing the transmission... Are the people in Bologna nuts, or is it in fact safe to put the bike in gear?

I'm going to try a few other tricks that I've read on here, but I'd like to get this done myself a few times so I can easily replicate this at the track. Rant over.
Click to expand...

Me neither I wouldn't place stress on tranny.

I got mine off with a 569NM air rattle gun took awhile good 15sec before came loose with rear brake on as hard as could.

Doing up the nut had the rear brake on with a long breaker bar to the point the nut wouldn't move and the bike was rocking off the stand.

Also cover the nut in elec insulation tape to avoid marking the nut.
 
maslov said:
so I'm reviving this god damn thread... Was going to get the wheel of myself, as usually when I'm getting a new set of tires I just take the bike to the shop, this time I thought I'd get this done myself. Even the shop had issues removing the rear wheel off in the past...

I tried the breaker bar with N in place and a buddy holding down the brake pedal, NADA. I resorted to my DeWalt impact wrench, NADA. I decided to pull up the shop manual and in there they call for putting the bike in gear to remove the nut, however as everyone else I'm not a fan of stressing the transmission... Are the people in Bologna nuts, or is it in fact safe to put the bike in gear?

I'm going to try a few other tricks that I've read on here, but I'd like to get this done myself a few times so I can easily replicate this at the track. Rant over.
Click to expand...

I can do it by myself, bike on kickstand, without power tools. Just need a socket, a breaker bar, and about a 4' length of pipe that will fit over the handle of the breaker bar. Socket on breaker bar, pipe over bar handle - about halfway down to maximize the length. Put the socket on the nut, then rotate the handle and pipe toward the front of the bike. I put one foot on the rear brake lever then apply upward force to the end of the pipe that's over the breaker bar handle. Just apply a constant pressure - no need to bounce it or anything. The nut will loosen. Once it breaks free the rest is easy. It's all about the leverage. I've removed the rear wheel 3 times so far this way.
 
I had the same issue. The dealer tried everything and even bought a new 3/4 impact and nothing. We thought that it had loc tite or that the threads had been ....... I had to take the bike to a truck stop and use their 1" impact for about 5 seconds before it came off. The weird thing is that nothing was damaged. Everything was perfectly fine! We still can't come up with an explanation.
 
So I kept at it with the impact wrench for about 5-6 seconds at a time... after about 4 tries it finally gave way and came right off.
 
That is why I have such a hard time. 230 nm from factory thats on there tight. Thanks for the info,.
 
Can somebody tell me what (if anything) I am risking by tightening the rear nut to cca 180nm instead of 230? 'Cause that's what I am doing... I know theoretically: losing my rear wheel. But is there really a risk in practice?
 
I've been using the same method as ghostdog6 since my first Ducati single sider
in '96, and even though the torques have risen over the years, I've never had any problems. (748, 916, 996, 1098, MTS and now pani).
I have a 1m long 3/4 drive breaker bar which I use without any further extensions with a 3/4 drive socket -
bike on sidestand, in 1st, lash or tie on front brake, right foot on rh footrest with back brake
applied. Push bar towards back of bike with left hand only. Never been stuck yet.

Considering the torque wrench to apply the 230nm is only 60cm long, it should be
no problem to slacken it off with the mechanical advantage of a 1m bar.

Cannot understand why anyone would want to reduce fitting torque on a single
nut fastening with such criticality. Would imagine that there are possibilities of
taking the load away from the thrust faces of the nut/hub and wheel, instead
transferring it to the guide pins, which could ultimately stress the wheel in an area which it wasnt designed for.
 

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