Second Panigale Purchase - Thoughts

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transdesigner said:
Add the 5 lbs to possibly save your life, and then subtract the 5 lbs by buying a lithium battery. There, you're weight nuetral now :)
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I don't use my 1199 on the street and would not use it on the track even if I had it. I'll get the lithium battery for -10 :).

transdesigner, are you in the auto design industry?
 
LArider said:
Good feedback all around I think it's all good. Here are some additional comments:

- I am worried buying another 2012 will have the same issues and don't want that
- I really wanted to by EvoL's Tri, but we spoke and I missed it by two days
- my riding tends to be pure canyon riding with revs 6-11k

There is a 2013 Tri at my local shop with 200 miles, but they want $26,500 and after seeing Logan's bike it doesn't look like a good deal (maybe at $23,000?)
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In case it wasn't clear, my response in post #7 was not an inquisition but more declarative in pointing out the fallacy of baibaicop's claim. Basic logic shows that if you had the parts replaced three times with brand new parts, it absolutely cannot be attributed to a model year defect due to the new parts being new production units that are used on newer model years. So then, how exactly could purchasing a newer model year utilizing the same parts that failed in your replacements absolve you from that worry?

If you think paying more for a later model year will somehow help you elude that issue, I'm afraid you'll just end up paying more while maintaining the same probability of experiencing the same result. If, however, there are other reasons you'd prefer a newer model year then by all means, but don't let some unfounded superstition or internet hearsay push you into a less appealing deal.
 
TKO said:
I don't use my 1199 on the street and would not use it on the track even if I had it. I'll get the lithium battery for -10 :).

transdesigner, are you in the auto design industry?
Click to expand...

Yes I am. I'm an engineer, I manage a transmission & hybrid powertrain design department. Designed a few transmissions for Harleys and Buell racing back in the day too.
 
Fixed it.

Had to read this 5 times before I understood it.

TKO said:
I don't use my 1199 on the street and would not use (ABS) on the track even if I had it. I'll get the lithium battery for -10 :).

transdesigner, are you in the auto design industry?
Click to expand...
 
Semi topical:

You know what would be cool?
If the ABS light didn't continuously flash while it's turned off.
I could really live without that.
 
here we go:
IMG_20130926_131323_126.jpg


IMG_20130926_131315_211.jpg


hope you can read it.

it's not running yet, but in a few weeks. won't matter, as no 1199 is older than 2 years yet...
 
LArider said:
I wanted to put this out there for everyone and get some feedback before pulling the trigger on another 2012 Base non-ABS.

I am in the process of having Ducati North America repurchase my 2012 Base non-ABS due to the clutch master slave and cylinder being replaced three times each over the past 11 months (plus bleeding the lines every 300 miles which is a pain). I have spoken with their HQ people and my local shop supports the CA lemon law purchase of the bike as it qualifies on many fronts. They said it takes about eight weeks until I can expect my refund.

Having said that, I found another 2012 Base non-ABS with only 2,300 miles for $13,000. I am thinking of pulling the trigger as that is a great deal and using the extra money from the DNA repurchase of my current bike to get some extras (already have Termi, Brembos, Next reservoirs, etc). The only other Pani I am interested in would be a Tri, but can't find a great price.

I welcome any thoughts (including the "you gotta have ABS") from everyone......Cheers!!
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I wouldnt get anything if you have to change your bike for minor issues like that!!! surely you could work around that problem?
 
fireman1251 said:
The clutch business is a heat related issue and will not go away unless you plan on putting around the suburbs at 30 mph.

If you track your bike or do any spirited riding the clutch will need bleeding regularly.

Was at the track last sunday and spoke to a former team manager. They used to run Gixxers and he said that in racing situations, their clutches needed bleeding after every heat.

Somebody on this forum had this remedy: Try taping the lever to the handlebar overnight or when transporting the bike. Tried it and it works!
Click to expand...

Gixxers have cable clutches.
 
Well I appreciate all the comments - my bike has about 7,000 miles on it and the majority are canyon and some track riding. I agree that a 2013 will not necessarily guarantee that it will solve the issue, but the hope is that it is a lower probability event. I am expecting the DNA repurchase to take 8-10 weeks (give or take) so I may wait until then to get the next Pani, but I really want a Tri as I think CaliDuc, Gunny, etc have set the bar on bling bikes!

For what it's worth I am picking up 2003 MV Agusta 750s F4 tomorrow and hopefully that will entertain me while I hunt for the Tri and deal with the DNA. Cheers!
 
LArider said:
Well I appreciate all the comments - my bike has about 7,000 miles on it and the majority are canyon and some track riding. I agree that a 2013 will not necessarily guarantee that it will solve the issue, but the hope is that it is a lower probability event. I am expecting the DNA repurchase to take 8-10 weeks (give or take) so I may wait until then to get the next Pani, but I really want a Tri as I think CaliDuc, Gunny, etc have set the bar on bling bikes!

For what it's worth I am picking up 2003 MV Agusta 750s F4 tomorrow and hopefully that will entertain me while I hunt for the Tri and deal with the DNA. Cheers!
Click to expand...

If nothing else, purchasing a 2013 ensures you won't have the option to buy a bike without ABS; a feature which I believe is extremely beneficial for street riding. All the best to you in your purchasing quest.
 
They really should have used a Cable actuated clutch system on the Panigales just like the latest BMW S1000RR, CBR1000RR, GSXR1000, ZX10R, Aprilia RSV4, Yamaha R1's etc.. etc....

Zero Issues!!!!
 
mig1199 said:
They really should have used a Cable actuated clutch system on the Panigales just like the latest BMW S1000RR, CBR1000RR, GSXR1000, ZX10R, Aprilia RSV4, Yamaha R1's etc.. etc....

Zero Issues!!!!
Click to expand...

There are advantages to each. I prefer the linear characteristics of hydraulics.

Ducati has (for at least the last 20 years) had quirky clutch slave cylinders. Usually not a problem with regular maintenance (i.e. bleed/refresh once a month).

OP's problem (evey 300 miles) seems excessive. But, after having gone back to dealer 3 times to fix (and with no improvement), I would have taken a different approach and just sprung for an aftermarket slave like CNC Ducati 30mm Clutch Slave Cylinder by CNC Racing

Yeah, I know Ducati should have a warranty solution. But sometimes, especially if you know you'll just be swapping one bad part for another, it's easier just to spring for the money and do it yourself and be done with it and move on to something else.
 
Last edited:
ScrapperX said:
Just helped my buddy change the cable last weekend on a 12 here is a video of a 13 with a cable. I have a 09 that has a cable.

Not sure on the 08 it may be hydraulically actuated
Click to expand...

Oups, sorry.

My brother has an 08 for a track bike and it is hydraulic and yes, it needs regular bleeding
 
This is the first I have read about this issue, so bear with me. My 2012 ABS has not had any issues with the clutch, but I don't track the bike either. But here is my question. If it is only an issue with '12s and not '13s, then something had to have been changed, right? And if that is the case, why hasn't the dealer been able to install whatever was changed?

Something just doesn't add up here.
 
I think I may have the answer to the clutch hydraulic system sucking air. A few years ago I had a similar problem with the rear brake on my 1198 S. It would need a bleed every few weeks. The master cylinder was replaced, no help, then the caliper, still no help. Finally they replaced the whole system and that fixed it. I concluded it was the hydraulic brake line, most likely a weak crimp on one of the fittings. With pressure, it wouldn't leak, but when pressure was released, it would suck a small bit of air. Fireman `1251 suggested that taping the lever down when not in use would help. That suggests a leak that occurs only with negative pressure.

I suspect that when the clutch is used the pressure causes the line to swell slightly in the crimped-on ferrule and thus seal the fluid in. When pressure is released, it relaxes and allows a bit of air to be drawn in. So this type of leak would not show any fluid leaking out.

My best guess.
 

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