Some track day prep questions

spooky said:

I considered rotating the banjo but even with the master cylinder as tight inboard as possible the brake lines still look a bit too tight and rotating the banjo forward is, if anything, going to make that worse. There’s a significant difference in the tightness of the lines between OEM and the new clip-ons.

I think I need to stick with standard offset to use the standard lines - when the clip-ons are forward mounted the master cylinder can come more inboard than is possible with these ones.

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What’s different about them?

andyb said:

What’s different about them?

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To OEM? Less offset and the first useable part of the bar is more outboard than with the OEM ones. The master cylinder ends up further out and further back than the OEM position.

You removed the two no4?

andyb said:

You removed the two no4?

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Yes.

And the number 12 Torx screws on part 3.

When I swap to my headlight blank, I remove the headlight with the air duct (part 3) at the same time. Then it's a matter of the torx screws to remove the air duct from the headlight. Did you take out the 4 screws that go into the spring clips (part 8)? They hold the air duct to the radiator shroud.

It looks to me like there is a connector in the way of the resonator. The only way I can see if getting into that is to remove the cow above it, which looks like it is only held in with two screws.

None of this is in the workshop manual though.

bp_SFV4 said:

When I swap to my headlight blank, I remove the headlight with the air duct (part 3) at the same time. Then it's a matter of the torx screws to remove the air duct from the headlight. Did you take out the 4 screws that go into the spring clips (part 8)? They hold the air duct to the radiator shroud.

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The workshop manual seems like a work of fiction…

It shows the light coming out without the air duct (part 3). But the diagram above shows screw 7 attaching the air duct to the resonator, which would prevent the light coming out without the air duct…

I’ll remove the four screws that go into the sides of the air duct and see if the entire assembly will come out.

@bp_SFV4 That did it thanks. The manual was worded in a way that made it seem that the lights could be taken out without the air duct but that wasn’t the case.

Cheers.

Glad you got it. The duct comes out with the light and there's a few of those torx screws to take out to separate them. Be careful when screwing them back in so you don't cut new threads. A trick someone told me a long time ago with those coarse threaded screws going into plastic, is to to turn them in the reverse direction a 1/4 turn or so at first so the threads line up.

spooky said:

I considered rotating the banjo but even with the master cylinder as tight inboard as possible the brake lines still look a bit too tight and rotating the banjo forward is, if anything, going to make that worse. There’s a significant difference in the tightness of the lines between OEM and the new clip-ons.

I think I need to stick with standard offset to use the standard lines - when the clip-ons are forward mounted the master cylinder can come more inboard than is possible with these ones.

View attachment 54529

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This is what I ran into with the DB Adjustable clip ons

Some others experience w these 15 mm offset bars which confirmed for me that it wasn’t doable w the stock lines

SuperDomestique said:

Some others experience w these 15 mm offset bars which confirmed for me that it wasn’t doable w the stock lines

Ducabike Clip-ons

For those with the Ducabike clip-ons, did you run into an issue with the clutch line not having enough slack to mount the master cylinder? It looks like I will need to relieve some zipties in order to create slack. Also, what are your preferred adjustment settings? Sent from my SM-G892A using...

ducatiforum.com

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At least I know it’s not me then. I had another go today and also adjusted the banjos - it was just about ok on the brake side but there was no way to do it on the clutch side.

It’s ‘funny’ how they sell the bars as being made specifically for these bikes but they don’t work with OEM lines... the joy of aftermarket stuff.

It’s either longer lines or standard offset and so I think I’ll get some Spider clip-ons that are more front-mounted with the same offset as OEM. I believe they should work fine.

Rambling update…

I’ll fit the new front brake master cylinder (and Jetprime stuff) when I have clip-ons that will work with OEM lines and I’ll just use the stock setup to start with. It will be interesting to try the stock one on track to have a proper comparison. On the plus side, turning the banjo a bit allowed me to turn the lever down a lot more and it’s in the perfect position for me now.

I checked coolant today after it had come back from it’s first service - pretty much nothing in the reserve and quite far down the neck in the radiator… I guess they skipped the part of the service where they are supposed to check the coolant… You can’t trust dealers to do anything. I’m sure the R runs hotter than the SP2 and I think I’ll need to make sure I check levels very regularly. The oil level seems to be ok, although it’s right at the top line. I’ll check that again tomorrow.

V02 tyres fitted to my wheels - now I get to see if I can get the back wheel off… I’ll try calibration in the paddock (first track event starting on Friday - 3 days at Most and the forecast looks dry with reasonable temperatures - hopefully the forecast is accurate).

Front and rear lights removed and blanks fitted (no error messages or warnings, although the old DP fairings came with a plug for the brake light so I fitted it - not sure if it’s necessary)). The front lights was a 5-minute job that took me a lot more than 5 minutes.

Made a start on getting the fairings on - satin carbon looks rather lovely. White ‘Ducati Corse’ stickers on the bellypan and nothing else - super stealth mode.

Working on this bike is a pain in the arse. It’s good to do it, to know it’s been done right (probably) and learn my way around the bike but Interesting and mildly satisfying but it’s not really my idea of a good time.

Oh man, the learning curve of what you need to check after the professionals work on your bike! I am not the best wrench but not the worst either….and I have written a check list of items that I review pre-flight. That can all put you in the hospital!

One thing…leave the calibration to pit out, put your hand up, hold the speed, and get it done.

Kev242 said:

One thing…leave the calibration to pit out, put your hand up, hold the speed, and get it done.

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I’ve not done it before. I guess it doesn’t take long?

Just had a look and it seems it only takes a few seconds. The EVO3 software has calibration on the main page as a selectable option, which is handy.

You just need to hold 30 MPH for a few seconds, its pretty quick to do.

Kev242 said:

Oh man, the learning curve of what you need to check after the professionals work on your bike! I am not the best wrench but not the worst either….and I have written a check list of items that I review pre-flight. That can all put you in the hospital!

One thing…leave the calibration to pit out, put your hand up, hold the speed, and get it done.

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Don’t forget to be in 2nd gear and make sure you have 5-7 sec of room to go 45-50 kph with minimal distractions. It won’t calibrate in 1st. That 5-7 secs also feels a lot longer when you’re pressed for space. I’d do it in the parking lot in an empty section far away from people.

Be particularly careful with the new rubber and if you sit in a queue that temps will be dropping. So easy to tuck the front on first corner. What I’ve seen people is that they wait until pit entrance is open before taking off warmers so they’re not sitting around. Usually they’re watching for others to leave the queue and last on track. All gear should be on. Warmers off straight and onto the track. Give yourself time and don’t rush. Be methodical.

Slicks have a different carcass and don’t flex as much (which produces the heat) as the DOT SC3. The Bridgestone slick carcass is allegedly stiffer than Pirelli so it may not be as easy to get heat in them once they drop off. Did you get a chance to feel them before mounting?

What group do you run in and will you be able to push hard enough to get adequate heat into them? (Not asking to be a nob)

SuperDomestique said:

Don’t forget to be in 2nd gear and make sure you have 5-7 sec of room to go 45-50 kph with minimal distractions. It won’t calibrate in 1st. That 5-7 secs also feels a lot longer when you’re pressed for space. I’d do it in the parking lot in an empty section far away from people.

Be particularly careful with the new rubber and if you sit in a queue that temps will be dropping. So easy to tuck the front on first corner. What I’ve seen people is that they wait until pit entrance is open before taking off warmers so they’re not sitting around. Usually they’re watching for others to leave the queue and last on track. All gear should be on. Warmers off straight and onto the track. Give yourself time and don’t rush. Be methodical.

Slicks have a different carcass and don’t flex as much (which produces the heat) as the DOT SC3. The Bridgestone slick carcass is allegedly stiffer than Pirelli so it may not be as easy to get heat in them once they drop off. Did you get a chance to feel them before mounting?

What group do you run in and will you be able to push hard enough to get adequate heat into them? (Not asking to be a nob)

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My understanding is that Pirelli slicks have a soft carcass. The V02 have a stiffer carcass than Pirelli but I think most, if not all, have a stiffer carcass than Pirelli, based on what I’ve seen and read. Have you tried slicks?

I was using warmers with the DOT SC3 and I’m used to the routine. If I don’t get straight out then I’ll build up over a lap or two, accelerate and brake hard with the bike upright and build up corner speed.

I am told I should be fine with them and I’ll be using a soft front.

SuperDomestique said:

Don’t forget to be in 2nd gear and make sure you have 5-7 sec of room to go 45-50 kph with minimal distractions. It won’t calibrate in 1st. That 5-7 secs also feels a lot longer when you’re pressed for space. I’d do it in the parking lot in an empty section far away from people.

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@spooky, this can easily be done on pit lane exit

spooky said:

It’s either longer lines or standard offset and so I think I’ll get some Spider clip-ons that are more front-mounted with the same offset as OEM. I believe they should work fine.

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Spider is the way to go. No one uses Ducabike in Europe, unless for street smack-downs in 650ib-style