Some track day prep questions

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I think in FU's but if that number was correct (.036 inch) it would have broke (probably) as the collets would have been totally pulverized. But even if not for sure you would have heard that loud and clear. Might even be louder than a worn out 12 tang dry clutch. If he uses the tapered feeler gauge sets as most do that feeler would be at the other end of the set. Has to be a typo. Nobody would have ignored that. I would have called Spooky and told him to bring his wallet as measuring number 1 is one thing and changing that closer is a way more expensive thing. SD on the R's especially Ducati holds the valve open near max lift as long they can and then they pull the rug out and that sucker is approaching the seat at high velocity. That why it's important to keep the closers tight as otherwise they'll harmonically bounce of the seat if the clearances are too large and pound everything. The hairpin springs don't damp much. That's what breaks the collets (on the beltdrives the half rings). I just took an 1103 apart and it had broken collets and the closers were still within the loose end of the operational specs (not the tighter assembly specs). Where I'm confused is I thought the R closers had tighter specs than the 1103's. The sheet does not reflect that.
 
panibadboy said:
its .... weather across all C Europe this weekend. So buy some Red vino, have aperitivo and off you go to FKK club
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Good selection now too

20240913_214952.jpg
 
OK I was remembering the difference between the intake and exhaust closers. I find the looser intake closer specs interesting. Now i have to go see if the closer springs are different from the 1103's. BTW R collets (titanium) are $50 a set.
 
panibadboy said:
@spooky

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I’ve seen his videos. Some are a bit odd in terms of the tips given. Braking using your arms to hold you back and your knees gripping the tank, then getting your bum off the seat for entry… Trail braking - don’t do it… No idea what counter-steering is. He seems to be a guy who knows how to ride fast without really understanding how he does it (which is fine - in sports you can be very clever or a bit dumb but anywhere in between can be a problem).

Getting my knee down is not happening primarily due to a lack of flexibility in my hips and tightness in the groin area - I cannot spread my legs much at all - and I need to improve that flexibility over the winter. I used to get my knee down on the road when I was previously riding almost 30 years ago, so it’s not like I’ve never done it. It isn’t something that bothers me and it’s not a goal as such but I’ve got to the point where I know that this reference point will be very useful.
 
This is what I was taught (poor sound quality but it’s exactly what he taught when I attended).



I get the point made in the video about being able to turn your foot and point your knee out, although his foot is still mostly on top of the peg, but I just sat on the bike and tried it and it makes zero difference to me as I simply cannot spread my legs that far apart. Primarily a restriction in the groin area and something I’ll need to work on to improve flexibility.

Probably worth adding that I could carry far more corner speed considering how little lean angle I am now using and I expect my knee would be down at that point regardless. I saw some video taken from behind me during the summer and I was only a few cm from the ground while not making any effort to turn my knee out (although body position was worse and I was using more lean).
 
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Still not sure why Spooky is running slicks in novice especially when he can’t even get a knee down. Slicks are probably more of hindrance than helpful at this level. Might be worth taking a step back to Rossi Corsas or Supercorsas which would probably generate more grip at his pace.

As for the inflexible hips, maybe Pani is onto something and you need to venture out to the FKK club 😂 Yoga is probably the best way to gain flexibility and static strength and balance for trackday riding
 
Also I’m not posting this to troll or put a dig in. Sometimes if you’re not progressing as you’d expect you have to take a step back to re-evaluate things. Get back to basics and simplicity and re-establish a good baseline. It can’t hurt. Would also start reading books on moto suspension and geometry so that you can stop relying on suspension experts at the track.

I’d bet with the slicks your bike geometry is off. I thought I saw spooky not running Pirelli slicks so that rear is most likely going to be smaller circumference/diameter (55 vs 60) than stock which will cause rear ride height/rake/trail to be off. Reverting to the stock tires will at least allow you to test this. Even running Pirelli slicks will throw off geo since they’re 125 and 65 (CoG, wheelbase, anti-squat, trail) will all be a little different
 
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His tire wear is fine, so nothing wrong with geometry, nothing wrong with grip, temperatures and etc.

Slicks vs non slicks right now, in his situation is just $$ question. If money not an issue, don't change yet another variable you got used to.
 
panibadboy said:
His tire wear is fine, so nothing wrong with geometry, nothing wrong with grip, temperatures and etc.

Slicks vs non slicks right now, in his situation is just $$ question. If money not an issue, don't change yet another variable you got used to.
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The bike is track only and pressures are good when I come in. If not using slicks has been suggested then I have no idea why. It turns great, stops great, goes great and always feels stable and confidence inspiring - there are no issues caused by the bike.

The primary reason for not getting my knee down is as I have stated - flexibility. As an example, the right leg I damaged - I am unable to put put my right ankle on my left knee when sitting due to restrictions in the knee joint. I don’t think I can do much about that. No problem putting my left ankle on my right knee. My ability to spread my legs is very limited but I believe that can be improved.

I see people with their knee down going slower than me through turns. I also have a huge amount of lean angle available now that body position has improved – down from a maximum of 54° to a normal now of 44 to 46 at faster lap times. I need to carry more corner speed and use that lean angle that I’ve gained.
 
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spooky said:
I am unable to put put my right ankle on my left knee when sitting due to restrictions in the knee joint. I don’t think I can do much about that. No problem putting my left ankle on my right knee. My ability to spread my legs is very limited but I believe that can be improved.
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Isn't that more of a hip thing? What panibadboy was writing about getting your foot on the end of the peg will make it easier to open your hip angle more. You want your foot to be at an angle similar to what your thigh would be when your hip angle is open at its widest position. If your foot is on the peg parallel with the centerline of the bike, it will be difficult to open your hip wide enough. Sit in a chair with your feet straight on the floor and see how far apart you can spread your knees. Now try with your feet at a 45 degree angle.
 

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