Some track day prep questions

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Good grief. That’s not complaining about a lack of knowledge – that’s complaining about a lack of communication.

So, how do you check without removing anything?
 
Removal looks like it requires a specific tool for the smaller clutch that my bike has and the workshop manual seems to indicate that the plate pack must be removed to check it.

I can’t see how you check the plates / pack height without removal.
 
spooky said:
You are doing your “I know the answer but I’m choosing not to be helpful” again…
Click to expand...

You are doing your I don’t know the answer didn’t ever know the answer although you don’t have a choice ….

I’ve added this information several times on here …
 
So you still seem lost and confused…
you can therefor see that depth is 5mm as a new clutch when it gets to 5.5 you can replace 1.5 steel with a 2mm one … do that a couple of times with a full check in between extra 1500-2000 miles before new clutch 🤷🏼‍♂️

And you can measure/check this without taking anything apart ..
 
panibadboy said:
No

Undo the cover
Undo the nut
Take plates out - make sure you keep order to not mix this stuff up
Use vernier to check thickness of the whole pack

all-in-all takes 5mins

Click to expand...


Okay, thanks for that.

So you do need to take the pack out to measure it properly and that’s what I mentioned earlier that I need the tool for.
 
andyb said:
So you still seem lost and confused…
you can therefor see that depth is 5mm as a new clutch when it gets to 5.5 you can replace 1.5 steel with a 2mm one … do that a couple of times with a full check in between extra 1500-2000 miles before new clutch 🤷🏼‍♂️

And you can measure/check this without taking anything apart ..
Click to expand...

Seems like a reasonable rough guide, assuming that 5mm would be reliably consistent on a new clutch.

After nearly 4,000km, I’d be surprised if I don’t need to disassemble and check individual plates. That doesn’t look like a particularly big deal once I have the required tool, which is what I originally said.
 
panibadboy said:
its something you do in between trackday sessions when you feel clutch slipping/gears not engaging AFTER you bled the clutch. So yes straight-forward.
Click to expand...

I haven’t had any issues with gears not engaging and I don’t think I’ve had any clutch slip, although I did notice recently that I was seeing the green light and then hitting the limiter before I could change gear - it seemed to get through the revs very quickly. I think it’s most likely to be pilot error.

I’ll have a look at it soon and I’ll be interested to see how it is (I’ll be quite well over 4,000km by then).

Bleeding the clutch fixed the issue I had with not being able to get into neutral while moving. I expect bleeding the clutch might need to be a reasonably regular thing.
 
Fixed under warranty.

I don’t think they have given it any heat cycles to make sure it’s okay though. That would’ve been quite hard to do considering they let the battery completely die. I picked it up, got to the track and found out…

Dealers are utterly useless. 
 

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