Some track day prep questions

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panibadboy said:
No

Undo the cover
Undo the nut
Take plates out - make sure you keep order to not mix this stuff up
Use vernier to check thickness of the whole pack

all-in-all takes 5mins

Click to expand...


Okay, thanks for that.

So you do need to take the pack out to measure it properly and that’s what I mentioned earlier that I need the tool for.
 
andyb said:
So you still seem lost and confused…
you can therefor see that depth is 5mm as a new clutch when it gets to 5.5 you can replace 1.5 steel with a 2mm one … do that a couple of times with a full check in between extra 1500-2000 miles before new clutch 🤷🏼‍♂️

And you can measure/check this without taking anything apart ..
Click to expand...

Seems like a reasonable rough guide, assuming that 5mm would be reliably consistent on a new clutch.

After nearly 4,000km, I’d be surprised if I don’t need to disassemble and check individual plates. That doesn’t look like a particularly big deal once I have the required tool, which is what I originally said.
 
panibadboy said:
its something you do in between trackday sessions when you feel clutch slipping/gears not engaging AFTER you bled the clutch. So yes straight-forward.
Click to expand...

I haven’t had any issues with gears not engaging and I don’t think I’ve had any clutch slip, although I did notice recently that I was seeing the green light and then hitting the limiter before I could change gear - it seemed to get through the revs very quickly. I think it’s most likely to be pilot error.

I’ll have a look at it soon and I’ll be interested to see how it is (I’ll be quite well over 4,000km by then).

Bleeding the clutch fixed the issue I had with not being able to get into neutral while moving. I expect bleeding the clutch might need to be a reasonably regular thing.
 
Fixed under warranty.

I don’t think they have given it any heat cycles to make sure it’s okay though. That would’ve been quite hard to do considering they let the battery completely die. I picked it up, got to the track and found out…

Dealers are utterly useless. 
 
spooky said:
Fixed under warranty.

I don’t think they have given it any heat cycles to make sure it’s okay though. That would’ve been quite hard to do considering they let the battery completely die. I picked it up, got to the track and found out…

Dealers are utterly useless. 
Click to expand...

did they tell you what they saw inside when they opened it ?

hows valve clearances ?
 
On the battery, you got data loggers on there right? That .... will kill a Li in 48 hours in my experience if not disconnected.
 
Kev242 said:
On the battery, you got data loggers on there right? That .... will kill a Li in 48 hours in my experience if not disconnected.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought about that after it happened… 🫣

It happened with my SP2 as well. Clearly haven’t learned a thing.

I should have unplugged the logger, although I did think they would have run the bike to check if it was ok…
 
Perfect weather and new battery fitted last night.

I went out for the first session and I usually just take it easy and see how the track is and avoid the white paint and kerbs, although you need to go over a couple here for the right lines.

Interesting to note that what felt like a slow warmup was only two seconds slower than my best time so far.

I moved the bars forward a little bit before coming and it feels better.
 

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