Stomp Grips

Ducati Forum

Help Support Ducati Forum:

Yea, you need to fix that BP, that is gonna get you hurt. Get your seat and adjust pegs as I told you, and I'll give you some drills to do on the bike to get your BP right. If you get a rear stand, you can practice in the garage
 
Yea, you need to fix that BP, that is gonna get you hurt. Get your seat and adjust pegs as I told you, and I'll give you some drills to do on the bike to get your BP right. If you get a rear stand, you can practice in the garage

If I may ask... Can I get some of these drills as well? I find that I am also suffering from my BP on the Panigale. My ZX-10 was absolutely perfect without a need for rearsets for my "stumpy" body.

I slide all over the place on the Panigale, but that improved with the Comfort Seat, Rizoma Pegs, and the Stomp Grip... but my crotch is way too close to the tank due to the back/forth sliding... Going to try out your suggestion to get the perfect balance point from my rearsets.
 
I will post up some simple things to do tonight when I'm at a computer. I'm a busted up 54 yr old who can ride double sessions all day without getting tired because good BP is relaxed BP, and not a lot of work
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    17.9 KB
I have had both and I much prefer the stomp grips. Way more feel and grip. The lower section on the tech specs is not needed for function.
 
Some good ergo advice here; ditto on the seat shape. I bought an 899 seat planning to shave down the rear end to flatten it out. Always puzzled the heck out of me why they put these things out with such obviously compromised (not to mention non-adjustable) ergonomics. A pet peeve of mine; but as a long-time cyclist it just comes natural to me to think about fit before just about anything else. Being off balance and always fighting against that causes what cycling fitters refer to as a "proprioceptive challenge". Your brain is seeking balance, always. One size does NOT fit all.

I remember thinking WTF when I saw the 1st pics of the new GP15, which has the seat pointed down at a ridiculous angle, just about at the same time Yamaha were talking about the wider, flatter-angled seat on the new R1 being derived from what Rossi and Lorenzo were using on their M1's.
 
This was 100% about being able to sell to shorter riders. Many are uncomfortable about not being able to put both feet flat on the ground. To get the styling of the upswept tail (and possibly clearance, and to clear the height of a Vtwin, the seat ended up like this. I preordered so I never sat on one. The required flattening of the seat does also screw up the lines (see my pic above) and with a Ducati, it's lines before all. The 999 proved to them what their customer base held dear, sexy first. In the Corbin post is a rear seat that will actually allow a passenger to stay in their seat, and everyone's comments are how ugly it is (agreed).
 
I'm 6'2 and the stomp grip and race seat def help a lot. For me, the rearset position is ok but the pegs are too slippery for grip so those are going to change soon.

As others mentioned, your BP needs some adjusting and you shouldn't be hitting that part of the fairing when leaning.
 
wow thanks guys! some awesome information!

I definitely need to address my seating position, as i struggled with it on the last track day . Looking at all my photos i am completely upright and not getting off the bike at all.

i think this photo best explains it


Will try adjusting my rear sets, also have a new seat on order which will hopefully help the sliding around (i have 2012 which has the .... seat)

I worked on my body position all last year. It's still not great, but I got better over the season. I think you'll find when you start to get off the bike more your knee will come into contact with the tank where the stomp grip will be.

I always thought I was hanging off way more than I actually was. Seeing photos was pretty priceless as far as being able to see what I was actually doing. If you can get someone to follow you for a couple laps and get some video, so much the better.
 
your toe's about to drag the ground if you keep that positioning.. move back ..relax.. and put ball of foot on that peg. .. just a reiteration of the other advice.
 
OK, so a few members asked for me to give some BP tips, so I decided I'd put it up here, if it helps anyone, great, if it doesn't help or you think I'm full of crap, I refund your admission. I'm a coach/instructor for TeamPromotion.com Ifanyone on this forum comes out to one of our days, look me up and we'll play/work a session or two.
I struggled for years with BP. I am also 54 yrs old and pretty busted up, actually been riding the last year with a 60% torn rotator cuff. In the process of getting my BP right, I found a good lesson plan. We all KNOW what we should do, getting there is the tuff part.Ghostdog hit the nail on the head, I tell students "I used to think I had Marc Marquez's BP until I looked at the pics, they looked like I was searching for my Mom in the grandstands.
For you guys with some trackdays under your belt, the first tip is the hardest. To get BP right you MUST slow down. If you are riding at 90 or 100%, you will NEVER change your BP. We lived long enough to grow up and buy ducs because our survival instinct kept us from doing something to kill us. If you approach a corner at your usual speed,no matter how much you want to get all motoGP and put your chin on your hand, you'll pull your head back over the windsheild where you feel safe, hell, it got you thru the last lap! Also, it looks like a different track down there. You need to spend a couple sessions going 60 or 70%. just a fast cruise.
Now, while getting off the bike properly allows the bike to use less lean angle, yada yada yada, its not my primary reason for getting BP right. Good BP brings awesome vision. First, the further you look down the track, the smoother your line will be, the better your situational awareness will be, and the SLOWER IT FEELS, allowing you to go faster comfortably. Next time you are on the highway, look out your drivers window straight down at the white dashes. seems like you are going 300 mph! That is what happens when you are "looking short". You dont need to look at the cones or curb, any more than you need to look at a curb when you take a right turn in the city.
I see many guys really reaching to get that knee down and their inside shoulder rotates forward, seriously cutting off their vision. My "end game" in my lessons is to ALWAYS have your shoulders square to the bike, regardless of how far off the bike you get. The biggest culprit in getting "crossed up" is being tight on the tank. This forces you to "pivot" your crotch on the tank, and that will rotate your torso forward on the inside. Sooooo, here is drill one. Put bike on syand or have some one hold it up square. First, put nuts against tank and try to slide one cheek off the seat and put your knee out, you will see what I am saying as you rotate. Now, get on the balls of your feet on the pegs. slide back so that there is 4" (fist length) between your crotch and the tank. Now lift up a bit and squarely put one cheek off, rotate your foot on the end of the peg, and turn your knee and foot out at the same time and amount. Practice this left and right. Half of your inner thigh should be dug in the tank. You will be surprised hoew the tank is shaped close to perfectly for this exact position. Don't worry about getting you head down yet, do this first. work on keeping yourself square, do not pivot. You are shifting squarely left or right. If anyone likes, I will continue this step by step.Tomorrow I will move on to explaining how to actually pull this off at the track. Pay attention and be willing to slow down and "go to school" and we'll get you that elbow draggin' pic for your profile pic!
 
I have spent a lot of time working on body position over the years and gradually found the proper one that yielded consistency, speed and control.

then I changed bikes (from S1000RR to Panigale) and am learning it in some ways all over again. alas.

If you're willing to spend the time writing your thoughts down, then I for one am willing to read... its always good to be reminded of such things IMO...especially when they're broken down into simple mechanics as you do above

thanks for doing this...
B
 
A before and after of a guy willing to slow down and learn. Only a few weekend between pics
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    85.4 KB
B, you may have the ergo issue on the Pani we've been discussing. Seat, stompgrip. Proper peg placement and in my case, adjustable clip ons so I could get behind the bars instead of over. I was running wide on the real fast turns because I didn't have the leverage to "bang the bars" as hard as a fast turn requires
 
I was running tech spec initially on the Panigale (as I did on previous bike), I'm changing to stomp-grip this season (admittedly for aesthetic reasons). I'm honesty not sure how one would ride the Panigale without it or something similar on the tank. There's simply nothing to hold onto with your legs

I know I need to work on peg position... ran out of track days last year before I could get it where I wanted. I haven't played with clip on position too much yet.

I think part of my problem is also just "new shiny bike" syndrome. I had gotten rather proficient on the BMW at local tracks, and started over in many ways with the Panigale (multiple seconds off-pace, dealing with the rear suspension pumping under hard acceleration, absence of front end feel mid corner, etc.)

so I made some changes to the bike ... (lowered swing arm pivot, going to try Pirellis in lieu of my beloved Dunlop slicks, etc.) I'm not racing, so don't have to be fast and have time to experiment and get the bike (and more importantly... me) right

for reference ...a "before" on the BMW.

thanks again for your help... informed critiques are always welcome
 

Attachments

  • PSSR_Aug_24_2013_ORP_2884-2728677747-O.jpg
    PSSR_Aug_24_2013_ORP_2884-2728677747-O.jpg
    87.3 KB
I think part of my problem is also just "new shiny bike" syndrome.

+1

That's the problem I had at Thunderhill back in January (bought the bike in Dec) and it was really messing me up.

I'm going to Laguna next week and now that the Pani has over 1000 miles, some rock chips, some dented fins in the radiator, that syndrome has faded. :D
 
OK, so a few members asked for me to give some BP tips, so I decided I'd put it up here, if it helps anyone, great, if it doesn't help or you think I'm full of crap, I refund your admission. I'm a coach/instructor for TeamPromotion.com Ifanyone on this forum comes out to one of our days, look me up and we'll play/work a session or two.
I struggled for years with BP. I am also 54 yrs old and pretty busted up, actually been riding the last year with a 60% torn rotator cuff. In the process of getting my BP right, I found a good lesson plan. We all KNOW what we should do, getting there is the tuff part.Ghostdog hit the nail on the head, I tell students "I used to think I had Marc Marquez's BP until I looked at the pics, they looked like I was searching for my Mom in the grandstands.
For you guys with some trackdays under your belt, the first tip is the hardest. To get BP right you MUST slow down. If you are riding at 90 or 100%, you will NEVER change your BP. We lived long enough to grow up and buy ducs because our survival instinct kept us from doing something to kill us. If you approach a corner at your usual speed,no matter how much you want to get all motoGP and put your chin on your hand, you'll pull your head back over the windsheild where you feel safe, hell, it got you thru the last lap! Also, it looks like a different track down there. You need to spend a couple sessions going 60 or 70%. just a fast cruise.
Now, while getting off the bike properly allows the bike to use less lean angle, yada yada yada, its not my primary reason for getting BP right. Good BP brings awesome vision. First, the further you look down the track, the smoother your line will be, the better your situational awareness will be, and the SLOWER IT FEELS, allowing you to go faster comfortably. Next time you are on the highway, look out your drivers window straight down at the white dashes. seems like you are going 300 mph! That is what happens when you are "looking short". You dont need to look at the cones or curb, any more than you need to look at a curb when you take a right turn in the city.
I see many guys really reaching to get that knee down and their inside shoulder rotates forward, seriously cutting off their vision. My "end game" in my lessons is to ALWAYS have your shoulders square to the bike, regardless of how far off the bike you get. The biggest culprit in getting "crossed up" is being tight on the tank. This forces you to "pivot" your crotch on the tank, and that will rotate your torso forward on the inside. Sooooo, here is drill one. Put bike on syand or have some one hold it up square. First, put nuts against tank and try to slide one cheek off the seat and put your knee out, you will see what I am saying as you rotate. Now, get on the balls of your feet on the pegs. slide back so that there is 4" (fist length) between your crotch and the tank. Now lift up a bit and squarely put one cheek off, rotate your foot on the end of the peg, and turn your knee and foot out at the same time and amount. Practice this left and right. Half of your inner thigh should be dug in the tank. You will be surprised hoew the tank is shaped close to perfectly for this exact position. Don't worry about getting you head down yet, do this first. work on keeping yourself square, do not pivot. You are shifting squarely left or right. If anyone likes, I will continue this step by step.Tomorrow I will move on to explaining how to actually pull this off at the track. Pay attention and be willing to slow down and "go to school" and we'll get you that elbow draggin' pic for your profile pic!

WOW! Thankyou so much for taking the time to write all that! I would greatly appreciate if you continue! If i live in US i definitely come to one of your sessions

I did what you suggested with the pegs position, i have move them forward (however i don't have much adjustment with the rimzoa rearsets) i am only 175cm (5.7ft) is it worth moving my rear sets up?
 
Kaido, it might, its worth trying. Adjust them up, and as I stated, on the balls of your feet, lift your but up, and see if you can balance without falling forward. When I ride, especially when racing except on a long straight, I never actually sit on the seat, only just touching it.Other than the initial bar input ("banging the bars") any steering adjustments I make in the corner are done with my feet, outer knee and the throttle, but more on that later. In a perfect world I can squat on my pegs and not fall forward, or do so minimally and carry the little forward weight with my forearm on the side of the tank.
I'll post another step of the BP equation later today. This really needs to be worked on one piece at a time, as its too hard to do all at once. I will post it all up, but dissect it, master a portion, and move on. The trick is to make BP muscle memory BEFORE you get fast, then you already have those tools stored.
Bjorgens, that pic is texbook awesome BP, you just have to get the ergos sorted an the Pani and get over the new bike apprehension. I had racebody, sliders, dented replacement tank and aftermarket clipons and was still nervous. Putting an amazing penske rear shock on (weakest thing on our bikes) and a low side got me over it :)
 
I didn't make it to my shop last night, but will take a pic tonight. Mines not pretty, built it for racing and used the ugly gripper material used on dirt bikes. If you scroll back I posted a side view of the bike with the seat on it, gives you an idea of how I raised the front and shaved the rear to flatten it. Again, stomp grip is needed too, never rode a more slippery bike!
 

Register CTA

Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Back
Top