Track mods anything I'm missing? (1199s)

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gatti man said:
To improve the suspension it's going to take quite a bit of money. It would be a winter project if I attempt it at all during warranty period.
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No doubt...But you didn't stipulate cost was an issue..you asked a general question.... This is why people buy the base bike if they gonna make it a track whore...:) you have instantly saved $5k for improvements... and $3.5k will get you sorted...
 
Stw said:
No doubt...But you didn't stipulate cost was an issue..you asked a general question.... This is why people buy the base bike if they gonna make it a track whore...:) you have instantly saved $5k for improvements... and $3.5k will get you sorted...
Click to expand...

Yeah. I didn't know it was going to be like this though. And the difference wasn't that large. My bike was a shop bike and with mandatory abs on the base after incentives it was more like 3k then I was able to sell the headlight for good money so its 2300 for ohlins not so bad after all that.
 
gatti man said:
Yeah. I didn't know it was going to be like this though. And the difference wasn't that large. My bike was a shop bike and with mandatory abs on the base after incentives it was more like 3k then I was able to sell the headlight for good money so its 2300 for ohlins not so bad after all that.
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Given your scenario this is true..
 
wilkson said:
When you get a chance swap out the conrods . Carrillo make some off the shelf rods should be just a straight swap .
Most guys here have only had to do a partial dismantle so should be able to do it cheapish .
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Should I wait until warranty is out or do them right away? I already had planned on a rebuild of sorts after the warranty is out.
 
gatti man said:
Should I wait until warranty is out or do them right away? I already had planned on a rebuild of sorts after the warranty is out.
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Dunno . Your motor might last forever or might .... it's pants next time you go out .
I have a mate doing a conrod swap at the moment 4000 race k's and the internally the motor looks perfect .
I would not worry about warranty personally . It's cheaper to do this mod than replace the motor or your health .
I would say a track day here and there is going to be OK but if you intend your bike to spend most of it's life on he track I would do it .
 
wilkson said:
Dunno . Your motor might last forever or might .... it's pants next time you go out .
I have a mate doing a conrod swap at the moment 4000 race k's and the internally the motor looks perfect .
I would not worry about warranty personally . It's cheaper to do this mod than replace the motor or your health .
I would say a track day here and there is going to be OK but if you intend your bike to spend most of it's life on he track I would do it .
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True if the bike causes me to crash at high speed it could be horrible.
 
Stw said:
No doubt...But you didn't stipulate cost was an issue..you asked a general question.... This is why people buy the base bike if they gonna make it a track whore...:) you have instantly saved $5k for improvements... and $3.5k will get you sorted...
Click to expand...

Has anyone tried just upgrading the springs in the suspension? Or is the valving that comes with the stock suspension just not that good?
 
It's looking like I'm going to miss my first schuduled track day this Friday... Quick question, where can I find good tire warmers at?
 
want another bike : put a 42 sprocket on the rear... cheapest speed to be found.. just did it in Le Mans and its the most dramatic result on anything i changed to the engine/power yet... allows you to shortshift so goes easy on the engine as well, whould you want that..

i would get the 'tracking/warranty' agreements form you dealer on paper. if he doesn't , swap conrods immediatly. If he does so, hard decision to make.
 
I for one, have changed the springs both front and rear. One step softer on one side only forks, and 2 steps softer on the shock. My 2012 Tri was violently stiff over bumps. Along with softening the shock compression to fully open (softest setting, #31), and slightly reducing fork compression to #25, it finally seems to be tracking reasonably well over bumps. I am tempted to have the compression damping modified to allow further testing at even softer settings, and possibly one step softer still on the rear spring. This is all surprising to me in that I weigh 190 pounds, and would have thought the shock would be closer from the factory. I run the link on flat, as that is what is proper for a one-up bike used for canyons. The reference earlier to the "junk Ohlins" shock - could you be expand on that regarding why you rate it as such? Thanks in advance.
 
This is good feedback. Which springs did the bike come with stock? That may help people to get a good starting point on suspension for the bike.

HarmonyJim said:
I for one, have changed the springs both front and rear. One step softer on one side only forks, and 2 steps softer on the shock. My 2012 Tri was violently stiff over bumps. Along with softening the shock compression to fully open (softest setting, #31), and slightly reducing fork compression to #25, it finally seems to be tracking reasonably well over bumps. I am tempted to have the compression damping modified to allow further testing at even softer settings, and possibly one step softer still on the rear spring. This is all surprising to me in that I weigh 190 pounds, and would have thought the shock would be closer from the factory. I run the link on flat, as that is what is proper for a one-up bike used for canyons. The reference earlier to the "junk Ohlins" shock - could you be expand on that regarding why you rate it as such? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 

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