Tuneboy Help - V6 to V7

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Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
12
Location
California
I have a 1299 with a Tuneboy V6 Tune that I flashed into the bike nearly 10 years ago and I've been very happy with. I'd like to apply several different trim files that are available with the V7 update. In order to flash the bike with the updated V7 software, do I have to flash the bike back to stock first using V6 before flashing with the updated V7 trim files or can I simply open the V7 software and apply the selected tune & trim files?
Any help or experience would be appreciated
 
When changing between versions, I have always stuck to flashing back to stock with the used software version before going from stock to the new version. So in your case I would recommend using v6 to flash to stock, and then start v7 and apply tune/trim files.
 
V7 will over write V6, but to be on the safe side a reversion to the Stock profile would not hurt. I've installed V6.8 , then went back to V6.7 because some of the features acted in a weird way or parts of it were missing like only one Trim file stored in the ECU instead of 3, and the Cruise seemed to wander more. Perhaps the Ver. 7 series will be better
 
It works. Is there some sort of magical pixie dust performance improvement for the bike by using the Box? Will I gain 5 lbs-ft and 10 hP with it? Hmm will it add weight to my 1199 while I'm riding? You KNOW I can tell the difference in the amount of weight on the bike after a quick trip around the block just because of fuel burn and tire wear, right?
 
I've only got experience with the wifi module and V7 software. My only complaint is trying to find a tuner that will use it.
 
Use the Roll On feature and do a lot of pulls holding the brakes to keep the throttle position in the right position while the rpm slowly increase. You need 3-4 seconds in each Fuel Map cell for the computer to do the compensation 2 times before moving to the next cell. It takes about 3-4 pulls for each TP % row. For the lower throttle percentages (50% and less) I rode the brake until about 8,000 rpm, because at part throttle that's about all you're going to use before you up shift anyway. I did my 60, 80 and 100% pulls in 4th gear, with an on-screen O2 sensor graph from the Sensors, then correlated the fuel cell on the graph to the o2 sensor values and made small adjustments for each cylinder to get them right. It took about 40 total pulls for all three throttle setting, but in the end it was done. I didn't hold the brakes after 3500 rpm, just held the bike back for 2-3 seconds so the lean spot would go away and settle down during the acceleration to 10k rpm. It takes a bit of time and ingenuity, but you can do it without a dyno or paying someone else to do it for you.
 

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