Tuneboy Tuning Development

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Hi everyone! Interesting read and lots of effort put in, so props to that.

I have a new to me 1198s, with slip on terms, and the associated upmap.

I hope to receive my tuneboy this week, but something I'm wary of, is not being able to revert back to the map I have currently, since I don't have the key that came with the exhaust.

Is this a case of suck it and move on?
 
I think it will be lost. Tuneboy has the standard map, but when I flashed mine I understood that the uomap was gone. In saying that, if you are installing Tuneboy are you not also getting a new tune?
 
My intention is to tune myself, but wasn't planning on having to do it straight up. I'm pretty well versed in tuning cars so have a grounding in fundamentals, but there's always a learning curve.

I was hoping to be able to save a copy as such, apply it to the tune and cruise so I have what I've got plus cruise until I have more time to play.

Edit: I suppose there are other maps around for basic slip on amd filter that I could use in the interim, but I'd really like to be able to do a map compare to see what's different, and make an educated call.
 
Tuneboy does come with maps for most of the common setups. It still befits from a tune in the dyno or you could do the data logging method if you want to install wide band O2 sensors. I'm not sure if the 'canned' maps supplied by TB are the same or better than upmap
 
Disco said:
Tuneboy does come with maps for most of the common setups. It still befits from a tune in the dyno or you could do the data logging method if you want to install wide band O2 sensors. I'm not sure if the 'canned' maps supplied by TB are the same or better than upmap
Click to expand...

Yes definitely custom tune is always better (when done right) than canned tunes. It'd be great to be able to compare with the upmap! I'm sure it's very generic and far from optimal, but more suited than basic stock map.

I do plan on installing widebands, I have a few pairs and different controllers in the shed, need to do a bit more research about how they connect to tuneboy. No point buying more innovates if I don't have to.

I look forward to contributing to this thread if I can.
 
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Tuneboy does work with many sensors and can be calibrated to incoming signals. I should have started this last year..... I was pretty much in Brisbane
 
Well, I've done nearly 2000kms on my bike since I've had it, and not had a random stall once. I flashed the tune and cruise on Friday night (with termi slip on trim) and went for a ride today. It rode nicely, and cruise is great, but I had 2 instances of stalling at lights today, in gear, clutch in, after 30+secs of idle. Obviously no O2's involved. Idle rpm does feel slightly lower than it was with the UPMAP.

Other potential factor, is I found my clutch switch was not being triggered by the lever, so I tended to that (with a zip tie).

Any thoughts please? LTFT clear needed? TP reset? Can't see any mention of a idle target RPM anywhere. Ignition idle control? Give it a couple more degrees to raise RPM?

Please excuse my lack of familiarity with the software. Watching and reading as much as I can.
 
As I understand it, the RPM is hard set in the ECU. You're now the second person that has stalling issues too. The maps that I put up had nothing in the fuel maps changed though so performance should be unchanged, just the feel of that performance should change.

The Tuneboy map has some throttle open at idle, but I've been riding for weeks now and never had a stall or even a near stall at any time. There are a few things that I can think of:

The trim is off. Either it is the wrong trim file or the tuning isn't quite right and was fine when the throttles were slightly open, kind of masking the issue. I'm not sure why this wouldn't have been the case in mine though.

The tuner could have turned the MAP sensor input off. I've only changed the TuneBoy supplied tune so it's running MAP sensors at idle. When I had a MAP issue it did stall.

To tuner off the MAP involvement and go to a fuel table only, in Tune edit (red program) open the .dat file, click the FL tab and change the lower left cells to 100 using page up.
 
Sorry, i should have specified, not using your files! Just the out of the box ones. Specifically the termi slip on no dbkiller trim.

I have made a few tweaks to your tune and cruise throttle map, and a few tweaks to 3 trim files to test out today.

Main changes are 0 5degrees increase in lower left 3 cells, and slight increase in throttle in 1st with tp at 0.

Side note, I'm surprised at some of the timing variations between same cells front to back.
 
Ha, I feel better now 🙂

When you say a few degrees changed, what screens are you doing this in?

I got rid of any values in the 0 throttle as I'm pretty sure it messes with the EBC intervention, but you should definitely set it up to your preference 👍
 
There's only 2 ignition trim tables right? I increased the idle zones, TP 0, RPM 1000/1250/1500.

edit: I'm using your tune and cruise .dat tune today, with some increases in the 1st and 2nd gear throttle maps, 0 - 6 TP rows to be more in line with the TB file. Reasoning is I assume this will slightly increase the throttle blade opening. Soon find out, I'm jumping on the bike now!
 
Literally the area I wanted refined....... 😂

I'd try out both versions, but you should find better throttle control with the modified file. The TB one holds the same % throttle for a while and higher than the input.
 
Disco said:
Literally the area I wanted refined....... 😂

I'd try out both versions, but you should find better throttle control with the modified file. The TB one holds the same % throttle for a while and higher than the input.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I understand your process. I merely blended your throttle tables with a slightly higher starting point than zero :D I kept everything very smooth.

I didn't have any stalls today, but I didn't spend much time in traffic and hardly caught a light. I did sit on the bike once I got to work, for at least a minute, in gear with clutch in to try and emulate yesterday's stall, and it stayed alive. Idle RPM seems to be between 1500 and 1700, or there abouts. More testing required.
 
The higher starting point on the Tuneboy table is the cause of some of the snatchy behaviour. Second gear onward has the throttle close to locked at 3% +/- from 0% at idle through to 4.8% at 3892rpm. There's no progression as you roll on then suddenly it starts. The more open at lower input is counter productive to smooth riding, kind of like a quick shifter from the start. The maps I built do the opposite, start out with small (but definitely always increasing) throttle response and gradually turning into the quickshift for higher rpm. Getting open to quick down low give less control. Obviously set up to suit your riding, but I definitely recommend trying the mid first and seeing if you get better control, particularly in corners. If you want to go faster, just twist the wrist more 😉
 
So, stalling has not been resolved. Thus far I've inly made desktop adjustments, next step is to do it live, and see if I can get control of idle rpm.

Question. Can anyone tell me if the target AFR tables have any bearing on the fuelling calculations? Do they play any part whatsoever in the injector duty calcs? Or are they only used in the target box to gauge where your actual WB reading is? And to colour the cells green/blue/red.

It would be really good to get some actual info on how this all comes together. Documentation for this software is absolute ........ The tuneedit table descriptions don't even match when you hover on a map. Shiftlight tab selected, hover the cursor and it says 'this is the ignition table'.

File, export ignition map, the table that comes out doesn't even match either map displayed.
 
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Target AF is for auto tune and data logging. It can do the calcs for you to make the required adjustment, click the cell or cells that you agree with and the press 'c'. It will then make the required change to the F table to achieve the target set.

Red cell is leaner than the target, blue is richer if I recall correctly. Never seen green.

If you have WBs installed then you can get the reading at idle, just be sure to only do it when the bike is completely warmed up as it automatically starts quite rich. You can't change that, but if you make adjustments based on that then you could end up lean.

Another option for you would be to set the FL table to all '100'. This will knock out any MAP sensor involvement or you could disconnect one sensor at a time and see if it changes.
 
I tried the export and it somewhat works. You need to click on the page you're exporting. Even though it says ignition table, if you're on a throttle table that's what will be exported. The issue I can see is it's missing decimals. It'll only export the whole number. Even checking the raw file, the decimals aren't exported.
 
Yes, it's close, but even with rounding or truncation, there are differences.

I found an old document from tuneboy that states that the target A/F tables are used to calculate fuel delivery.

Set target table, tune fuel tablea so delivered matches target, then you should be able to modify target table moving forward and actual A/F should follow. As you'd expect for most tuning software.

If it actually works like this, I'm not sure.

Tune edit 3.4 is on the document
 

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You're pretty much in the right track. The target simplifies the tuning process, but you don't typically continue changing the AFR. I RUN 13.2:1 and find the bike runs very well. But once the table is established I leave it alone. When data logging (I don't like the idea of auto tuning while I'm riding), the bike is checking the AFR received via the O2 sensors and comparing against the target table. It then works out what change is required. You can see what that change is, you just see a blue or red cell, press C and it changes the corresponding cell in the F tables.
 
1199R tune file (also has the thermo fans turn on sooner). As always, check the file suits your needs before you install. I don't have anyone checking my work, so it's up to you ;)
 

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  • Panigale1199R_V502_Tuning_V6_8Tune_Fan_Throttle.zip
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