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Any good "How To" videos on disabling the O2 sensors on the SF V4?? (I have this one):

My Italian is zero so I am not sure what / which plugs need to be disconnected... Is the "green wired" plug under the tank disconnected and on the stand side the black plug?? Only those two?
 
Last edited:
TwoWheels said:
Any good "How To" videos on disabling the O2 sensors on the SF V4?? (I have this one):

My Italian is zero so I am not sure what / which plugs need to be disconnected... Is the "green wired" plug under the tank disconnected and on the stand side the black plug?? Only those two?
Click to expand...



It is actually not difficulty at all, take it a from a guy that's about as mechanically inept as one can be. Just don't make the same stupid mistake as me, make sure the replug that yellow/red plug underneath that gas tank, otherwise your bike won't start. I found that out the hard way. Also, for the O2 sensor plug disconnection, focus on the one connector inside the plug, that's the one that will release the plug. Play with the one near the kickstand first so you can see it better before moving on to the gas tank disconnect
 
Scblacksunshine said:
It is actually not difficulty at all, take it a from a guy that's about as mechanically inept as one can be. Just don't make the same stupid mistake as me, make sure the replug that yellow/red plug underneath that gas tank, otherwise your bike won't start. I found that out the hard way. Also, for the O2 sensor plug disconnection, focus on the one connector inside the plug, that's the one that will release the plug. Play with the one near the kickstand first so you can see it better before moving on to the gas tank disconnect
Click to expand...
Thanks!! Good advice!! So there is a yellow/red plug that must be undone... is that to lift the tank?? And you recommend the Mtorque map?
 
TwoWheels said:
Thanks!! Good advice!! So there is a yellow/red plug that must be undone... is that to lift the tank?? And you recommend the Mtorque map?
Click to expand...

That one doesn't need to be unplug but I think it comes off by itself when you lift the tank up. At least it did for me and I didn't replug it back in after putting everything back. Tried starting the bike and no go, had to repeat the same steps to lift the tank back up and replug it back in. That's why, take it from me, you don't want to make that same stupid mistake
 
TwoWheels said:
Thanks!! Good advice!! So there is a yellow/red plug that must be undone... is that to lift the tank?? And you recommend the Mtorque map?
Click to expand...

The yellow/red plug plugs into the fuel pump which is mounted on the tank. Unplugging it will allow you to lift the tank higher.

The O2 sensor plug in this pic is the one which doesn't have anything plugged into it.

iqSUOUH.jpg
 
The block off plate? That is the secondary air system, which has been removed.

Once you remove the catalytic converter the air the system introduces into the system will cause lots of pops and backfires. It will also complicate reads you get from a dyno's air fuel sensor when stuck into the exhaust since the system is introducing air from the air box into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel.
 
Oh, that’s where the reed valves were for the air injection? I thought both banks had a breather

Why the hell they run the exhaust ports all the way up to the valve cover??? That makes no sense. Why not just put a tube in the exhaust pipe??? Would be lighter
 
Don14R said:
Oh, that’s where the reed valves were for the air injection? I thought both banks had a breather

Why the hell they run the exhaust ports all the way up to the valve cover??? That makes no sense. Why not just put a tube in the exhaust pipe??? Would be lighter
Click to expand...

For emissions, their goal is to get as much fuel burnt off as possible in order to pass. Makes sense to have the system inject air at the earliest point possible.
 
I understand why it has air injection

I don’t understand why they designed it the way they did

Cast alum cyl head with ports running up to the cover. Smoked

If I were racing one I would want machine all that alum out of there and plug it as close to the port as I could. Unfortunately ex ports usually have a lot of water around em...
 
Its not really a heavy system. Think ounces not pounds. The hose leading to the air box is really short for the rear cylinders. The valve/motor they connect to is at the rear of the air box just out of that picture's view.

The air would have to be injected so it met the hottest exhaust gases which need only O2 to ignite, hence just on the other side of the exhaust valves. This is all before the cats, so if you still have that there's no point in messing with the secondary air system.

From the manual to show the house routing.

1609813369763.png
 
And then you have however much extra cast alum is in the cyl head so that that air can get into the exhaust port

I wasn’t referring to anything in the pictures
 
I think we're getting a little into the weeds at this point.

The extra material needed on a magnesium valve cover is maybe a few grams and I doubt milling passages in the aluminum head is going to alter the weight of the part in a meaningful way either.

Maybe added cost as to machine time but I can't imagine a better way given the required task.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
The yellow/red plug plugs into the fuel pump which is mounted on the tank. Unplugging it will allow you to lift the tank higher.

The O2 sensor plug in this pic is the one which doesn't have anything plugged into it.

iqSUOUH.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks!! When unplugged is there no error message going to the ECU or does UpMap cater for that? Regards!
 

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