V4 weight loss

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Oh yea and for all of the purists out there, remember the scrambler Roland built, you ain’t getting anything like that from the factory.
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Thanks for the ideas to cut more weight, since I have more time before the tracks open now. I'm currently running a quick change rear carrier, is there much weight difference in just running a sitta rear sprocket/billet carrier vs the aem quick change set up?
 
Keith197 said:
Thanks for the ideas to cut more weight, since I have more time before the tracks open now. I'm currently running a quick change rear carrier, is there much weight difference in just running a sitta rear sprocket/billet carrier vs the aem quick change set up?
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Can you post pics of your bike?
 
Inspection and service interval
This product is designed for racing use only. Recomended inspection and service every 25 h. Service at an authorized Öhlins service center.
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Service intervals
This product is designed for racing use only. Service and maintenance is recommended every 20 hours.
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@Bruce Wayne those are quotes from the FKR100 and FGR300's respective owner's manuals. Unless you're endurance racing five hours is a difference measured in days. Where did your service intervals come from?
 
BTrain5489 said:
@Bruce Wayne those are quotes from the FKR100 and FGR300's respective owner's manuals. Unless you're endurance racing five hours is a difference measured in days. Where did your service intervals come from?
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Experience, I worked with a team in World supersport and they run std forks with aftermarket inserts and these were stripped, checked, and bled after every day, the rear shock was stripped and bled after every session, this is pretty much STD for all the teams. We rebuild our own so I guess cost isn't an issue paying someone to do it? To be honest I didn't read the owners manual, so not sure what they are referring to, we don't replace parts unless they are worn or damaged we change seals every time though but probably don't need to but not worth the Risk in race situation.
 
Not much different than the “race only” calipers where you have low friction rings, no external dust seals and TiN coated pistons that need to maintain that coating for proper seal. I’m over 18k miles on my original 100mm “race only” monoblocks with 2 seal changes and never a hint of a leak. Pistons look new. Same for the “race only” master cylinders front, clutch and rear. There are quite a few guys running the FG series forks that have been doing so for years without issue. Do you need to maintain them from a cleanliness perspective, yep but following the 20 hr tear down probably has a lot to do with other factors (maintaining warranty support etc) than “your forks are going to fail in 21hrs) maintained with minimal effort i have found that in at least my case this is just not an issue.
 
endodoc said:
Not much different than the “race only” calipers where you have low friction rings, no external dust seals and TiN coated pistons that need to maintain that coating for proper seal. I’m over 18k miles on my original 100mm “race only” monoblocks with 2 seal changes and never a hint of a leak. Pistons look new. Same for the “race only” master cylinders front, clutch and rear. There are quite a few guys running the FG series forks that have been doing so for years without issue. Do you need to maintain them from a cleanliness perspective, yep but following the 20 hr tear down probably has a lot to do with other factors (maintaining warranty support etc) than “your forks are going to fail in 21hrs) maintained with minimal effort i have found that in at least my case this is just not an issue.
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Correct, I see guys at the track who do no maintenance at all, don't service the suspension all season pretty much don't even look at their bikes between sessions, but they are ride day riders that run between 5-10 sec a lap of the race Pace. From a performance perspective the tyres are the most important part, followed by the front suspension and obviously from a safety and performance perspective brakes, so I would rather be safe than sorry.
 
Ha excellent. What do you think of the Sicoms? I have the Braketech CMCs on the 1299. Its a little weird. Kind of like its too light of a feel on the turn in. Also you are running the JP/domino throttle setup. I wish there was a manual retrofit without the relocator kit
 
endodoc said:
Ha excellent. What do you think of the Sicoms? I have the Braketech CMCs on the 1299. Its a little weird. Kind of like its too light of a feel on the turn in. Also you are running the JP/domino throttle setup. I wish there was a manual retrofit without the relocator kit
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Haven't ridden on the rotors yet but they are really light. Yeah the cable throttle is a good set-up, no shims
 
endodoc said:
Do you work for SBU or is that your bike?
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No, I'm in Australia, I work for myself, I'm retired so I built a new workshop to Tinker with bikes, I have a million projects on the go ATM, I'm busier than when I was working
 
Running the JP ignition as well but I dumped the plastic switch for the locking MilSpec toggle. Friend had a plastic fail.
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