V4s won't start - brand new

Best advice so far in this thread…

Agree. A lot of work for the uninitiated.


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Vbeinars said:

There no throttle spacers installed, I've checked when disassemble controls on both handle bars to check for dust, corrosion, broken parts etc. Since when I recieved the bike it didn't respond to buttons. First shop where it was told me right away electrical wiring is ...... , ended up checking myself, harness wasn't connected to the controls, some wires were broken, few wires came out of connectors.

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If that’s what you had to work with when you bought the bike might as well buy a known working harness and start there. Some on eBay not badly priced.

brad8266 said:

If that’s what you had to work with when you bought the bike might as well buy a known working harness and start there. Some on eBay not badly priced.

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I was considering it, there are few for sale on eBay around 400, but they all require minor connector repair/replacement.

P.s. pulled my lower back yesterday in the gym, so spend the whole day in a bed thus no updates on bike

CanyonCarver said:

Do you have the Lonelac cables from UK with the ELM327 module? There is mototool for Android and numerous programs like jpdiag that you can download. Those will allow you to run tests like fuel pump, throttle bodies etc.


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That won’t work for a V4 non Mitsubishi ecu.

Halo2 said:

That won’t work for a V4 non Mitsubishi ecu.

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[emoji3064]


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Nevermind has been reported on here that melcodiag will diagnose issues on the V4, but isn't really supported.

Good day everyone,
Need another advice...
So some updates. Found a decent mechanic nearby who was able to start a bike in half a day, what basically 3 other shops couldn't do in 3 weeks, ducati dealer included.
Seems like the issue was one wire loose in ecu connector, and wires going to front MAP sensors were switched the other way around, probably that's what was causing shortage when I was checking them with multimeter, how did it happen? No clue... well that's at least what he told me.
Bike starts, runs now, it had some errors on dash so I brought it to a dealer to clear them... they couldn't do it. I was told that one of the sensors is causing issue, specifically rear abs. Again, I don't buy it, because before I brought the bike to the last shop there were no errors on dash.
Attached are pictures before and after. Anyone have any ideas? My thoughts are maybe another loose wire going to the black box ? Since that module controls all underlined systems.

Check the connector and wiring for the black box unit which is opposite the ECU on the other side of the airbox. I had the connector poorly seated once and saw similar errors. Basically none of the DTC, ABS, DWC etc features would function and all showed errors, but it started and ran just fine.

IIRC, the connector for the black box has a goofy lever on it and it can seem locked in when it isn't.

Yeah that's what I had in mind, checked connector on a black box, looks legit. And I'm sure it's not one the sensors since before I brought the bike to last mechanic there were no errors with ignition ON. And other thoughts?
Also , how many wires should have 13v coming into black box?
I have 4 wires with 13v , all red/yellow

Also remember it wasn't actually running before the last mechanic looked at it. I don't know if the errors will come on when the key is first turned or when the bike is powered up.

Actually remove the connector and plug it back it. When it happened to me I looked at it 10 times and thought it was seated properly every time.

I brought it already to the last mechanic, was looking what might be wrong all weekend myself, didn't see anything ...
Black box was never removed until this weekend by myself.
And actually when you turn ignition on without black box , it's the same errors

If the bike is a lithium ion battery this is very common. Turn the key to on position 3 times and let it fully cycle through each time. This should do trick. (Happens when you don’t ride often)

That was one of the first things I tried... no luck

I had similar errors before, it was a faulty sidestand switch. I doubt it's the same, but worth checking.