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Umm. Ducati specs an API SL oil. The Valvoline is (claimed) SM/SN. Tell me the difference. I want to hear how a SM/SN will destroy a clutch and not an SL.
Why Shouldn't Wait 600 Miles to Change Your Oil
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Umm. Ducati specs an API SL oil. The Valvoline is (claimed) SM/SN. Tell me the difference. I want to hear how a SM/SN will destroy a clutch and not an SL.
Valvoline does have a specific motorcycle oil. So yes let's hope that is what he is using or there might be other worries than just the normal metal flakes.
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I'm still wondering why nobody "thanked" me for my comment because I said something first
noobs
I would thank you if you posted pictures of some of your girlfriends naked
J/K its kind of an inside joke so don't flame me people .
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Actually, it's just the opposite, the automotive oils have LESS anti-wear additives, because of emissions regulations. I doubt the clutch will slip on 10w-40, but I'm aware of this issue. I'm only running it for a short time and then I'll go full synthetic. Most motorcycle oils now are full or at least partially synthetic.
To be clear, I'm not using the mototune break-in method, but to say there is "zero science" behind it, and it's based on "one bike" is incorrect. Plenty of people have used that method with good results, and have the compression test numbers to back it up.
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Welcome to Friday afternoons on a motorcycle forum!
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Clutch slippage?
Good read here
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 | Sport Rider
"Rather than continue to rely on specifications dedicated to automobiles, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (or JASO) developed its own set of tests specifically for motorcycles. JASO now publishes these standards, and any oil company can label its products under this designation after passing the proper tests. JASO offers two levels of certification, MA (high friction applications) and MB (low friction applications). JASO requires that the entire product label be approved before it can carry its label. If a label does not have a box with a registration number above the MA or MB lettering, it could be nonapproved oil whose manufacturer claims its products meet JASO standards when it may not have actually passed the tests.
These standards also include a test specifically designed to measure the oil's effect on clutch lock-up, as well as heat stability and several other factors related to motorcycle engines. Our advice here is pretty simple: Read your manual, and if it calls for an API SG oil, use that. Don't substitute a higher API designation oil like SL, because it will contain less of some additives like phosphorus, and it may contain other additives that will yield higher fuel economy in a car but could cause slippage in your clutch. (More on that later.)"
Part 2
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 2 | Sport Rider
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The "destroy a clutch" stuff is mythology - maybe if you're using 0w-30 auto oil or something
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Again - you're not getting it. Ducati has more to consider than just the absolute best techniques for break-in. The science is on the side of those using a relatively aggressive break-in method and early oil changes, period. I've used this method with several other motors and I almost always win compression check comparisons. The endless random opinions end there. Unfortunately a compression check isn't as easy on this engine or I would gladly post the results.
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Internet forums were built for your type...
Yes the worry would be frying your clutch if you are using plain car oil. Anti-wear has nothing to do with it. The property in car oil you would be worried about is the Friction Modifiers. If the oil you are using doesn't have JASO MA on the bottle I would change your oil ASAP and hope the friction modifiers didn't foul your fiber clutch plates to the point you might end up with some clutch slippage in the near future.
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Explain exactly how friction modifiers can "destroy a clutch" - I'm all ears, but I think it's just more unsubstantiated nonsense all too common in these oil related discussions. Better yet, post peer reviewed research.
What is true is conventional petroleum oil will shear faster when exposed to forces in a transmission, along with the higher oil temps this engine is running (petroleum oils degrade rapidly above 250 F), but, again, I'm running it for about 300 miles and dumping it.
It's also true very low viscosity oils can in some cases cause clutch slippage.
There is so much parroted rhetoric in these discussions based on conjecture it's unbelievable.
Good read:
Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils
Again, how do clutch plates become "fouled" by oil?
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