I’m southbound HWY 19 towards the town of Eminence, Missouri, located in the center of the “Ozark National Scenic Riverways,” Missouri's largest national park. The road is outstanding; a two-lane ribbon of smooth payment that winds, dips, and climbs through rolling forested hills. On the map, this stretch of road passes through another green chunk of “Mark Twain National Forest” and so no side roads, farms or roadside businesses interrupt our high-speed ebb and flow through the landscape. The only break in the green blur of the at the side of the road are multiple river crossing, each punctuated with a yellow “Caution Narrow Bridge” sign marking the approach. I rode this very section of pavement the day before and so its a familiar friend; however this time there is virtually no traffic. “Odd, for a Saturday,” I muse.
We enter the zone – the point in which everything works without a second thought to it; again, man and machine in harmony. I’ve never experienced a bike so at home and so stable while healed over on its ear. I’m truly amazed at the speed through corners; lines are precise, speed fantastic. The velocity into the corner is complemented by mechanical grip on the exit; depending on the corner, the throttle makes everything that much better, whether its getting on the gas sooner or holding it open all of the way through. The curves tighten as we descend upon Eminence. It is here, through the tighter corners that the lack of engine braking percolates to the surface of my mind. “I thought big V-twins were notorious for obtrusive engine breaking,” I think to myself. “This is even less than my Speed Triple.” Clearly the electronic braking control is doing its part, above and beyond the slipper clutch because Speedie is also equipped with a slipper and this is a big twin. I can hardly believe that I have not consciously thought about this before, and we’ve already done over 700 miles together.
I adjust my line just short of an apex to avoid another turtle and then, still in the meat of the curve, begin banging through the best gearbox ever, using the quick shifter to build on the momentum of the curve for a quick exit and pass of a lumbering motorhome. We shoot over a long, narrow bridge and the river below. All the time, I’m thinking about that turtle, and the dozens upon dozens of other hard-shelled critters I’ve come across today, each enthusiastically trying to cross the road. “What’s with the turtles and the urge to cross the road,” I think to myself. “I wonder how many actually make it?” I’m reminded of a recent observation of a friend, recently divorced.
“Think about it,” Richard had once said to me. “The divorce rate is in excess of 50%. If you new that you only had a 50% chance of making it across the road, would you try? No!”
“Apparently, you would if you were a turtle,” I think to myself. A few curves later and the view broadens as we descend onto the valley floor with the town – population 548 – presented before us.
Puttering through town in first gear at the posted limit of 35 MPH, the thought of turtles is still with me, “Turtles must like motorcyclists better than car drivers, and Ducati motorcycles most of all.” We stop at the same old gas station we did yesterday for a well-earned rest and fueling.
It’s a funky old station, with separate pumps for each fuel grade; a rare but welcome thing these days for motorcyclists. I prefer this setup; it means I get what I pay for: high-octane fuel, and not half a tank of whatever the last guy pumped into his econo-box or ancient pick-up. To top it off, the station is complemented by an old-fashioned roadside ice cream and hot-dog stand directly across the street, complete with picnic tables set up in the shade for its motoring patrons.
Fueled up and ready to go, I fire her up for the 30-yard journey across the street. Parked in the shade, I proceed to undress, removing my gloves, helmet, pack and jacket, dumping them in a pile on the picnic table. I’m as thirsty as she was, only I opt for a diet coke and a banana – none of that high-test for me, at least not yet.
“May I have a large diet coke, no ice, and a banana please?” I ask the husky teenager at the order window.
“You want a banana?” She asks, her head cocked slightly to the side, like a confused golden retriever trying to understand its master’s request.
“Yes please,” I reply, “If you sell them like that.”
She retreats from the order window to conference with her colleague, another young girl who also appears to work here for the ice cream delights as much as the hourly wage. Apparently, the bananas are reserved for banana splits.
Eventually, they agree to sell me a banana for 50 cents. I’m thankful; it’s 89 degrees out and the last think I want is a gut full of sugar and dairy products. After all, it’s 4 PM and I have at least four hours of riding before sunset. I return to the bike and my pile of gear, sit down and proceed to take off my boots for a bit of a rest and some people-watching. I sip on my drink, eat my banana and observe being observed by the constant coming and going of people who stop by for ice cream treats, hot dogs and soda pop. Ah, the great American diet.
A yellow 1970’s Jeep CJ pulls in beside me. Doorless, weather-beaten, faded and well used, what’s left of the seats and soft top appear to be original with the exception of the silver duct-tape trim, which itself looks to have been accumulated over many years. An older man gets out, tips his ballcap as he passes and orders an ice cream at the window before returning and to sit on the adjacent picnic table in the shade.
“What kind of a bike is that?” he enquires, ice-cream drips cascading down his hand.
“A Ducati,” I reply. “It’s Italian.”
“You’re not from a round here.” He responds, posing a statement and a question at the same time.
Jesus; if I only had a gallon of gas for every time I’ve heard that in the last couple of days. I proceed to tell him my story, that I’m Canadian, working in Canada, but living in Northwest Arkansas, and that I fly a lot. Each time I tell the story I’m considered somewhat exotic, but mostly just odd.
A red gasoline truck pulls into the gas station across the street with the company name “Brown Oil” written in white letters across the side. “It is what it is,” I think to myself. That’s just the way it is around here. If we were in the big city, I bet someone would have paid a marketing genius to come up with that.
I point out the fueling truck to the old guy with the ice cream and comment on how much I like the old-style station and pumps. We chat some more and he introduces himself as JD (or maybe JB), and claims to be an “original hillbilly from these parts.”
“I hope they can make a go of it,” he says. “That used to be my station, ya know. I traded all the money I had in the bank, my livestock and my truck for it. But before I did, I asked the recruiter if I was going to be drafted. They said no, that I was too old, so I did the deal. Two weeks later, I was drafted to go to Viet Nam. I didn’t own the land, just the business. When I got back, it was done. Gone.”
“Damn,” I think. “What’s with all the Nam stories? That war sure ...... people up. I’ve got to hook up with a younger crowd. Then again, what war doesn't?
JD (JB?) appears to know everybody in town, and soon everyone that drops in for a treat comes by for a quick hello or a chat. All that is, except the girls with the oversized sunglasses in the Ford Flex across the parking lot. They just sit and watch, licking their ice creams. They appear to look straight through us without really looking at us – that 1,000 yard stare that only shell-shocked vets and skinny chicks in sunglasses appear to be able to pull off.
I clean my visor with a water-soaked towel, pack up and head out of town on HWY 19 to Thayer, MO, where I plan to fuel up again and join HWY 142 West, tracing the Missouri-Arkansas border.
To be continued…