2020 Panigale V2 - Race Build Thread

[endodoc]

1 plug the hole in the intake base plate
2 install block off plates
3 throw everything else in the trash can
Only hoses you should have is a right and left side MAP sensor which screw into that empty hole in your last photo.

Oh and stupid me but I was predicting this on the fact that you have all the necessary parts to make that happen which it looks like you do (mechanically) and electrically (delete plugs)

 

[f48_racing]

Confused That hose nipple in your hand is for the MAP sensor

No, I’ve got the vacuum hoses out, this nipple is from that system. It’s late now, I’ll post a photo in the morning. You can also see it on the diagram I posted of the evap system a few posts back, it’s shown on there.

 

[thomasmryan]

nice work.

 

[endodoc]

Ha my bad I had the photo turned around, yes just plug those holes with a screw

 

[f48_racing]

Changing coolant hoses, what a job..

When I first ran the bike, it had a leak from one of the coolant hoses, while under load. The guys at Cube diagnosed it as the OEM clamp on the front cylinder hose. I decided if I had a lot of work to get to the clamp, I might as well replace all the hoses at the same time. I used the standard Panigale kit from Eazi-Grip, didn't think was worth double (kit code HOSEKITDUC001RED).

If anyone is keen to do this, here's how I went about it.

First off, most of the hose access is via the left hand side of the bike, but you'll need to pull the wiring harness mount off both sides.

Remove the upper and lower hoses, exposing the "squirter unit", which I presume is Italian for thermostat.

The thermostat has three bolts, remove these, and loosen the hose clamp on the thermostat side of the front hose, and cylinder side of the rear hose. Remove the thermostat, then the front hose, once there's space.

^^^^ This is the leaking clamp. Congratulations, the easy bit is done.

To get it installed, I tried a few hose configurations, I found the silicone hoses between the thermostat and heads were both too long, so I ended up trimming them a little. What ultimately worked was fitting the front cylinder hose to the thermostat and then bolting the thermostat in place. I left the thermostat bolts loose, and fitted the rear cylinder hose. I used a water-based lube on all the hoses and the rear hose alone took me about half an hour. I'm sure the more handy would get it done quicker.

^^^^Trying different options

^^^^ From the right

^^^^From the left

And then you're done. Hopefully you don't have to do it again.

Thanks for watching my Ted Talk.

 

[f48_racing]

There's been a bit of progress on this slow burning build. Over the weekend, the suspension was upgraded by suspension specialists, Ride Dynamics, in Gold Coast. Joe looks after the suspension setup of my other race bike, and is a very handy racer himself, so I leave the suspension work and ideas to him. I think I mentioned it in my first post that I'd decided to go with KTech, as it may be more suited to our bumpy tracks in Aus. So Joe ordered in a set of RDS Cartridges for the front and a DDS Pro rear. Spring rates of 10N and 80N respectively, and the DDS Pro was built without the hydraulic adjuster, because the shock is easily accessible. The Pro also has a bypass valve setup, which Joe has explained at least three times and I still don't understand. Maybe I will, once I've ridden it. I've still got the stock linkages in the rear, so that spring rate may need to change once I start replacing bits of the rear suspension. I'm a mid-pack club racer, so I'm pretty sure this is going to be more than good enough.

Exhaust should be next on the list, it's arrived in-country, I just need to pay the invoice so it can be sent to me. The install isn't going to happen in a hurry though, I've got a few busy weeks and weekends through June, including a race meet and two days of rider coaching.

 

[f48_racing]

Another update on the bike build, I've installed the Spark GDU 8832 exhaust. It lay in my garage for about a month before I got around to finishing it. I contacted Spark to find their recommendation for the joints and they suggested a ceramic paste, or copper grease if I couldn't get ceramic. I was planning on replacing the gaskets anyway, so there was no drama waiting for some paste. Four weeks later....

The exhaust went on just fine, greasing the joints really helped the fitment. I had initially followed the instructions, which said to bolt the two headers on first, then mount the rest. I found it easier to line it all up by loosely fitting the rear header, and then attaching the link pipes and front header as a single piece. I was able to twist it all into position without stressing any pipes fittings. Once it was all lined up, I torqued the headers in place and bolted the collector to a rear exhaust mount on the motor. Incidentally, I didn't use the bolt supplied in the kit, it was too short. I reused one of the OEM exhaust mounting bolts instead.

All up, it's a good-looking exhaust and sounds great too. The welds are clean and look machine welded on the pipework, and clean inside too. Everything lined up well, even though it's a tight fit. I haven't run it much, only down the road to make sure it was all working as expected. Time will tell how well it lasts and how much power it makes.

 

[Paul G]

Sexy

 

[endodoc]

What’s the pipe diameter on the Spark kit?

 

[BP PanigaleV4S]

Between that bike and @Steven31371 's bike, it makes me want to look at a Spark system.

 

[endodoc]

I’ll grab one for the V2 if I can get it to work with 1299

 

[f48_racing]

What’s the pipe diameter on the Spark kit?

60mm OD

 

[endodoc]

So that’s the same OD as the standard underbelly Akra system for the 1299 so it should work but probably not optimally (current pipe is 64mm) as what I have but who gives a ...., I’ll never notice it and can fix it in the tune. I’ll order one, thanks man

 

[f48_racing]

So that’s the same OD as the standard underbelly Akra system for the 1299 so it should work but probably not optimally (current pipe is 64mm) as what I have but who gives a ...., I’ll never notice it and can fix it in the tune. I’ll order one, thanks man

Header length looks unequal if that matters - rear goes down and wraps around the oil pan before linking with the front. I’m thinking it will result in a broader spread of power and torque, but maybe a lower peak number than an equal length system. I could be completely wrong too, I’m also not fast or talented enough to tell the difference.

 

[endodoc]

I’m in the same boat with respect to talent. I’ll have to check the clearance in the pan I have now that you mentioned the pipe routing. Good info man, again thanks for sharing.

 

[f48_racing]

I’m in the same boat with respect to talent. I’ll have to check the clearance in the pan I have now that you mentioned the pipe routing. Good info man, again thanks for sharing.

 

[endodoc]

Thanks for the pic. I’m not sure that Jetprime pan will fit between those pipes. How much clearance do you have between the loop and the pan?

 

[f48_racing]

Thanks for the pic. I’m not sure that Jetprime pan will fit between those pipes. How much clearance do you have between the loop and the pan?

Roughly 40mm around the sides, but closer to the top of the pan (hard to measure). Here's a photo that may help a little.

 

[Steven31371]

So that’s the same OD as the standard underbelly Akra system for the 1299 so it should work but probably not optimally (current pipe is 64mm) as what I have but who gives a ...., I’ll never notice it and can fix it in the tune. I’ll order one, thanks man

Header diameter inner:

43 mm

46 mm

50 mm

58 mm

I sent them a question asking because the Woolich software allows you to put in the header and exhaust specs to account for them

 

[Steven31371]

Decreasing radius makes up for not having a real can or being as long as some of the under tail exhaust…the exhaust system can’t be totally free flowing or you lose low end power and torque across the power band….so it a balancing act between free flow of exhaust gases and having some resistance to that flow for lower end power….Sparks seems to have gotten that balancing act just right in what I think of as the ‘short’ exhaust type, as compared to the longer (and heavier) under tail systems that I think of as the ‘long’ systems.