2020 Panigale V2 - Race Build Thread

[f48_racing]

Decreasing radius makes up for not having a real can or being as long as some of the under tail exhaust…the exhaust system can’t be totally free flowing or you lose low end power and torque across the power band….so it a balancing act between free flow of exhaust gases and having some resistance to that flow for lower end power….Sparks seems to have gotten that balancing act just right in what I think of as the ‘short’ exhaust type, as compared to the longer (and heavier) under tail systems that I think of as the ‘long’ systems.

Interesting, have you seen the design of the end cans in the Spark? They start at 58 and taper to the exit (I haven't measured). I've been wondering whether this aids in providing back pressure or simply a limited baffle.

 

[Steven31371]

Interesting, have you seen the design of the end cans in the Spark? They start at 58 and taper to the exit (I haven't measured). I've been wondering whether this aids in providing back pressure or simply a limited baffle.

View attachment 43753View attachment 43754

yeah the inside diameter on mine tapers from 58 mm at the headers down 50 mm, then 46 mm then 43 mm at the can, on mine there is no baffling, just the taper for just the right amount of back pressure, it’s a really well designed system, and one reason it’s so expensive is that taper, much more expensive to produce than straight pipes with a can that’s narrower.

 

[Paul G]

Heres a pretty good explanation of pressure waves etc which you can broadly apply to reverse cones as in the Spark system Expansion Chamber (Tuned Exhaust Pipe) - Wikiscootia - A scooter wiki
The shape and length of the taper and where each individual header joins the collector determines the rpm range for a desired power/ torque delivery.

 

[f48_racing]

Anyone tried a slightly longer drain plug? The internal difference is only 2mm (15 vs 17). I haven’t installed the longer drilled bolt, the magnet is loose, so I need to return it to the supplier.

 

[endodoc]

Someone here made a bunch of Ti drain plugs a few years back maybe Phl, can’t remember but a bunch of people bought them. I think they were longer than stock. I have a pile of them. I use that but I use the Jetprime oil pan in the V2. There were some issues with longer aftermarket bolts on the stock pan bottoming out on the pan before the bolt flange/washer was seated. I use some petroleum compliant epoxy on the magnet.

 

[Desmolvr]

It is @Phl, I have purchased a couple of them from him.

 

[f48_racing]

Someone here made a bunch of Ti drain plugs a few years back maybe Phl, can’t remember but a bunch of people bought them. I think they were longer than stock. I have a pile of them. I use that but I use the Jetprime oil pan in the V2. There were some issues with longer aftermarket bolts on the stock pan bottoming out on the pan before the bolt flange/washer was seated. I use some petroleum compliant epoxy on the magnet.

Cool, I’ll find some epoxy for the magnet and give it a go.

 

[f48_racing]

Another noob question - how much oil. I did some research and then read the user manual. Manual said 3.8L so that's what I added. It was overfilled, so I took out about 250mL to get the oil level down to the max marker in the sight glass. This is a cold reading, bike on OEM Ducati stands, then verified on the wheels. So closer to 3.5L total, even with a filter change?

 

[SuperDomestique]

Ducati's and oil changes... Best way to get an accurate measurement of how much to add is to weight how much oil was emptied.

 

[BP PanigaleV4S]

Another noob question - how much oil. I did some research and then read the user manual. Manual said 3.8L so that's what I added. It was overfilled, so I took out about 250mL to get the oil level down to the max marker in the sight glass. This is a cold reading, bike on OEM Ducati stands, then verified on the wheels. So closer to 3.5L total, even with a filter change?

That was my experience as well.

 

[0260n25]

Ducati's and oil changes... Best way to get an accurate measurement of how much to add is to weight how much oil was emptied.

I agree. Notice he said weigh it. Do not measure in liters (oil levels are different at different temperatures (hot old oil expands vs cool new oil contracts). Weight is the same for hot vs cold oil. Weigh what you take out and put back in the same weight of fresh oil.

 

[Phl]

It is @Phl, I have purchased a couple of them from him.

thanks, yes, i still have 3-4 of them here

 

[Phl]

Someone here made a bunch of Ti drain plugs a few years back maybe Phl, can’t remember but a bunch of people bought them. I think they were longer than stock. I have a pile of them. I use that but I use the Jetprime oil pan in the V2. There were some issues with longer aftermarket bolts on the stock pan bottoming out on the pan before the bolt flange/washer was seated. I use some petroleum compliant epoxy on the magnet.

the first one was a bit too long, all the ones shipped and on bikes now are shorter and fit well.

they fit 899-V4.

 

[f48_racing]

Anyone removed this bracket that runs behind the clutch slave cylinder? It looks like I’ll have to pull out the clutch actuator shaft if I do take it off. The slave cylinder will also be a little bit closer to the block, not sure it that will interfere with the clutch action?

 

[topolino]

Anyone removed this bracket that runs behind the clutch slave cylinder? It looks like I’ll have to pull out the clutch actuator shaft if I do take it off. The slave cylinder will also be a little bit closer to the block, not sure it that will interfere with the clutch action?View attachment 44172

You could just add some spacers/washers behind the slave cylinder, to provide the same stand-off from the engine casing, if you removed the sprocket cover bracket.

 

[f48_racing]

You could just add some spacers/washers behind the slave cylinder, to provide the same stand-off from the engine casing, if you removed the sprocket cover bracket.

You could just add some spacers/washers behind the slave cylinder, to provide the same stand-off from the engine casing, if you removed the sprocket cover bracket.

Yeah, that could work. Any idea whether it’s ok to pull the actuator shaft out momentarily? Presumably the most important bit is to avoid damaging the o-ring seal?

 

[endodoc]

You have to retain some of the bracket, (unless you just want to make a custom piece with a seal) There is a pressed in O ring in that bracket where theclutch slave actuation rod slide through. Just buy a used one on eBay and cut it up to retain the small section that the clutch slave bolts to an the rod passes through. I have made several of these. There is an internal seal in the engine for the slave rod as well. You can completely remove the slave rod after you have removed the sprocket guard.

Remove the slave cylinder
Remove the slave rod
Remove the sprocket guard
Cut the sprocket guard to retain the section for the slave rod and slave mounting holes
Reinstall the piece which is now just a spacer for the slave and outer seal for rod
Reinstall the slave rod
Reinstall the slave cylinder
Done

Here is the bracket. You can see the seal. Cut the right and left side of the bracket away to retain the section with the 3 slave mounting holes and center slave rod hole and your done. You can zoom in on the second pic and see the modified bracket

 

[f48_racing]

You have to retain some of the bracket, (unless you just want to make a custom piece with a seal) There is a pressed in O ring in that bracket where theclutch slave actuation rod slide through. Just buy a used one on eBay and cut it up to retain the small section that the clutch slave bolts to an the rod passes through. I have made several of these. There is an internal seal in the engine for the slave rod as well. You can completely remove the slave rod after you have removed the sprocket guard.

Remove the slave cylinder
Remove the slave rod
Remove the sprocket guard
Cut the sprocket guard to retain the section for the slave rod and slave mounting holes
Reinstall the piece which is now just a spacer for the slave and outer seal for rod
Reinstall the slave rod
Reinstall the slave cylinder
Done

Here is the bracket. You can see the seal. Cut the right and left side of the bracket away to retain the section with the 3 slave mounting holes and center slave rod hole and your done. You can zoom in on the second pic and see the modified bracket

Easy enough, thanks for the help, I’ll just trim the bracket I have.

 

[B Topp]

That bracket is there to help protect the engine case in the event you break a chain. It prevents the chain from hitting stuff as it gets flung around the sprocket. Removing it is not a big deal until you snap a chain.

 

[endodoc]

Much like the telescope on Mr Wonkys porch is there to capture the space aliens when they land which they do about as often as someone has snapped a property installed chain on a V2. Thaw new V2 makes quite a bit less HP/Torque than the 99 and I’ve never seen a chain that was properly installed and maintained let go on a 99. If you look at the design that thing isn’t going to do much of anything. On the “pull” the chain is contained in the swing arm cavity until 3” from the sprocket. At the point that it exits the top of the swingarm, you wil have a very short section of chain which will be tracking short and straight into the front sprocket for a microsecond. That guard is a safety though, it isn’t going to do much of anything.