2020 Panigale V2 - Race Build Thread

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Why would the same factory torque setting damage the case threads just because you put a cover with slightly longer bolts on it?

insert Jeopardy theme............

It wouldn't
 
I choose to use the spec provided by the install instructions of whatever part is being installed which is typically lower.

The Ducati/Akrapovic exhaust is like this when it comes to the subframe bolts. The shop manual calls for 33 upper and 35 Nm lower if I remember right. The Ducati/Akrapovic manual gives this torque value as 25 Nm for all 4.
 
I think the concern is damage to the engine case threads, not the plastic cover. I believe I torqued mine (with that same cover) to a bit over 12 nm (using a 1 to 16 nm torque wrench).

Yes, for me it’s more about sticking to the bike manufacturer spec, so I went for 10 and 12.5 respectively.
 
Any ideas why this might be loose? The parts diagram isn't giving me a lot of help.



Screenshot 2023-01-02 at 7.37.59 pm.png
 
I’ve started stripping the bike again as I’ve finally got another batch of parts on the way. After pulling the fairings off, I saw this sound dampener in the intake. Does anyone take this out? It sure looks like it interferes with airflow.
8F1C18C3-9AB1-401C-8A12-8A062862B3AC.jpeg
 
Rearsets went on during the week. I got the Spider WSS from UK Race Support (there was no raw aluminium stock locally), and also the RaceTorx gear shift support.

I thought the brake side would be hard and the shifter easy, but boy, was I wrong. The brake was breezy but the left side took about 3 hours of trial and error to get the shift support and the rearset linkages set up.

There was a clearance issue with one of the supplied bolts touching the swing arm. Moving the shift rod too far forward risked the quick shifter touching the support. So it was a lot of testing to get the clearances right.

IMG_3920.JPG
A mate gave me a great tip though, he suggested reusing the round head bolt from the OEM shifter instead of the supplied bolt. That small difference really helped.
IMG_3919.JPG IMG_3934 Large.jpeg

All said, I'm really happy with the result.
IMG_3930 Large.jpegIMG_3935 Large.jpeg

Fairings have been ordered, and should be painted in about two weeks. One of my bars is bent, and I'm still on the fence regarding replacing the bar tube or buying the Spider clipons. The $300 difference can go towards some other bits and pieces, so I'm not sure which way to go.
 
Rearsets went on during the week. I got the Spider WSS from UK Race Support (there was no raw aluminium stock locally), and also the RaceTorx gear shift support.

I thought the brake side would be hard and the shifter easy, but boy, was I wrong. The brake was breezy but the left side took about 3 hours of trial and error to get the shift support and the rearset linkages set up.

There was a clearance issue with one of the supplied bolts touching the swing arm. Moving the shift rod too far forward risked the quick shifter touching the support. So it was a lot of testing to get the clearances right.

View attachment 47661
A mate gave me a great tip though, he suggested reusing the round head bolt from the OEM shifter instead of the supplied bolt. That small difference really helped.
View attachment 47660 View attachment 47664

All said, I'm really happy with the result.
View attachment 47662View attachment 47665

Fairings have been ordered, and should be painted in about two weeks. One of my bars is bent, and I'm still on the fence regarding replacing the bar tube or buying the Spider clipons. The $300 difference can go towards some other bits and pieces, so I'm not sure which way to go.

Get the clip ons. More adjustability. Each stock bar is $100 whereas a replacement 3rd party bar is going to be $50-75
 
The torque correct spec for any Ducati fastener is between stripping the bolt head and it coming loose

Seriously. Seems like Ducati uses some seriously cheap fasteners. I’ve stripped or damaged several while removing using the correct high quality tools. Does anyone make a fastener/bolt replacement kit for Ducs using high quality SS or Ti?
 
I'm cleaning up the breather pipes and fitting the catch can while I wait for the fairings. I'm stumped on one breather that seems to be part of the cooling system, just below the water pump. It's marked '12' in the diagram. Any idea what it does?
IMG_4013.PNG
 
IIRC, that connects to the weep hole on the water pump so in the event of a water pump failure, its will drip coolant from the end of the hose and not fill up the engine valley where it would likely be undetected until the engine overheats.
 

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