2020 Panigale V2 - Race Build Thread

[f48_racing]

Take the rod end out and shorten your shift rod a few mm and you should be golden and use a super flat headed bolt on the Spider by the Swingardm. The standard Hex that comes with it is too tall.

Yup, I reused the bolt from the OEM rearset as it’s a low profile button head hex. Will try a shorter shift link again, even if it’s not perfectly square.

 

[f48_racing]

Next on the mod list is a fixed-rate linkage for the rear. It wasn't going to be next, but a buddy of mine just sold his V2 and he's got two linkage sets available, so I picked them both up. One is from a 1299, and the other is aftermarket. For those who've switched linkages from P to F, did you put a stiffer spring in too? I'm wondering whether I need to put back the 95N that I just pulled out.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Next on the mod list is a fixed-rate linkage for the rear. It wasn't going to be next, but a buddy of mine just sold his V2 and he's got two linkage sets available, so I picked them both up. One is from a 1299, and the other is aftermarket. For those who've switched linkages from P to F, did you put a stiffer spring in too? I'm wondering whether I need to put back the 95N that I just pulled out.

When you say fixed rate are you referring to linear? I just purchased a V2 and will definitely be making a new linear link for it, was your mate's bike the one with the Ohlins forks and MS calipers?

 

[f48_racing]

When you say fixed rate are you referring to linear? I just purchased a V2 and will definitely be making a new linear link for it, was your mate's bike the one with the Ohlins forks and MS calipers?

Yes, I mean linear rate, and yes that’s the guy I got the bits from.



I’m having some wear issues with the rear, not sure if it’s suspension or pressure related, I’ve been trying a few different combos and I haven’t used this tire brand before. So maybe the linkage will eliminate one variable.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Yes, I mean linear rate, and yes that’s the guy I got the bits from.

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I’m having some wear issues with the rear, not sure if it’s suspension or pressure related, I’ve been trying a few different combos and I haven’t used this tire brand before. So maybe the linkage will eliminate one variable.

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The link will definitely help but I don't think that is the problem, i haven't used the Michelin slick for a while so not sure about the pressures, what temp are your warmers set to?

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I will ask around about the correct pressure for the Michelin.
I bought the V2 from your mate

 

[f48_racing]

I will ask around about the correct pressure for the Michelin.
I bought the V2 from your mate

Here's a link to the chart: https://www.michelin.com.au/motorbike/tyres/michelin-power-performance-slick - I'm coming off the warmers at 24 PSI @ 82*C. Coming in at 25 PSI. I was running a bit harder with a stiffer spring, but that's when it cooked the rear.

Congrats on the bike, it's mint. I don't think he's even ridden it hard at all. He's also very pedantic, so everything will be right. It's a nimble little thing, and should make a great addition to your collection.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Here's a link to the chart: MICHELIN Power Performance Slick | Motorcycle track tyre - I'm coming off the warmers at 24 PSI @ 82*C. Coming in at 25 PSI. I was running a bit harder with a stiffer spring, but that's when it cooked the rear.

Congrats on the bike, it's mint. I don't think he's even ridden it hard at all. He's also very pedantic, so everything will be right. It's a nimble little thing, and should make a great addition to your collection.

How are you measuring the tyre temp of the warmers? 82c is too low, need 95-100c measure with a tyre probe

 

[f48_racing]

How are you measuring the tyre temp of the warmers? 82c is too low, need 95-100c measure with a tyre probe

I'm using a handheld IR sensor against the tire.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I'm using a handheld IR sensor against the tire.

That isn't accurate get a tyre probe, see ben at cube he should be able to get one for you

 

[f48_racing]

Take the rod end out and shorten your shift rod a few mm and you should be golden and use a super flat headed bolt on the Spider by the Swingardm. The standard Hex that comes with it is too tall.

I'm looking at your recommendation again, what's shortening the shift rod going to do? I'm presuming leaving the gearbox spline position as-is, and shortening from the rearset side?

 

[DeussenEngines]

I'm looking at your recommendation again, what's shortening the shift rod going to do? I'm presuming leaving the gearbox spline position as-is, and shortening from the rearset side?

Yeah, put the spline where it works best and allow the lever and mechanical linkages to work correctly.

 

[f48_racing]

I’ve got the fixed rate linkages to put on the rear, how does this bolt come out with the exhaust in place?

 

[Andy7]

It doesn’t I’m afraid. You’ll have to take the rear header pipe off to access that one. Did the same on my 1299

I’ve got the fixed rate linkages to put on the rear, how does this bolt come out with the exhaust in place? View attachment 50063

 

[f48_racing]

It doesn’t I’m afraid. You’ll have to take the rear header pipe off to access that one. Did the same on my 1299

That’s unfortunate. Thankfully it’s not a difficult exhaust to remove.

 

[MarkNijhof]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you happen to have a RAL code for the red wheels? I believe the PPG is 473.101 and was told this matches with RAL 3024, but that seems to bright.

 

[JBJR]

I'll definitely get some sound clips soon. It's too loud to run at home, my neighbours will be very unhappy with me.

Are there baffles available?

 

[JBJR]

Changing coolant hoses, what a job..

When I first ran the bike, it had a leak from one of the coolant hoses, while under load. The guys at Cube diagnosed it as the OEM clamp on the front cylinder hose. I decided if I had a lot of work to get to the clamp, I might as well replace all the hoses at the same time. I used the standard Panigale kit from Eazi-Grip, didn't think was worth double (kit code HOSEKITDUC001RED).

If anyone is keen to do this, here's how I went about it.

First off, most of the hose access is via the left hand side of the bike, but you'll need to pull the wiring harness mount off both sides.
View attachment 42786

Remove the upper and lower hoses, exposing the "squirter unit", which I presume is Italian for thermostat.
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The thermostat has three bolts, remove these, and loosen the hose clamp on the thermostat side of the front hose, and cylinder side of the rear hose. Remove the thermostat, then the front hose, once there's space.
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^^^^ This is the leaking clamp. Congratulations, the easy bit is done.

To get it installed, I tried a few hose configurations, I found the silicone hoses between the thermostat and heads were both too long, so I ended up trimming them a little. What ultimately worked was fitting the front cylinder hose to the thermostat and then bolting the thermostat in place. I left the thermostat bolts loose, and fitted the rear cylinder hose. I used a water-based lube on all the hoses and the rear hose alone took me about half an hour. I'm sure the more handy would get it done quicker.
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^^^^Trying different options

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^^^^ From the right

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^^^^From the left

And then you're done. Hopefully you don't have to do it again.
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Thanks for watching my Ted Talk.

HSBK has a thermostat bypass pipe that supposedly helps with heat management. Not sure if your vendors had something like that or if you thought about it. I'm wondering if I should do it on mine, but I think I'll just wait and see how hot it gets...

 

[JBJR]

I ended up leaving the metal bracket in place, just cleaning it up.

View attachment 46434

They make a little spacer thing that you can use to not have to leave that kick stand bracket on there. You could probably even just measure the thickness and get some generic aluminum spacers that fit.

 

[JBJR]

Ha my bad I had the photo turned around, yes just plug those holes with a screw
View attachment 42715

I used this for guidance on my removal, and it was very helpful. Thanks. I plugged with bolts, also.