2022 Electronics Upgrade to 2023

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bp_SFV4 said:
Generally about one to two years. There are periodic updates all the time but I never noticed a regular interval though. Every once in a while I'll VPN my phone to a Japan server, hotspot the iScan and check for updates.

Mine worked on my 2021 by selecting a EU4 2020. But now it will auto identify by VIN and seems to support more of the dealer functions like the pin reset right at two years later.

I saw that in one of the V4R threads. I think that's why some people have problems with the DQS after changing gearing.
Click to expand...

Do you think is the option transmission reset?
I am thinking to buy one odbstar that's why.. I have changed the gearing already
 
That’s what I’m thinking. It’s the only thing close.

ETA: Here are the resets under the special function sub menu for the ECU.

IMG_0922.jpegIMG_0923.jpeg
 
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bp_SFV4 said:
"Reset gears" is what you need to start the gear teach-in or relearn process.
Click to expand...

Reset gears is about retraining the shifter sensor as to what gear you're in (I think we're saying the same thing). Have you tried the transmission adaptive reset function? I'd love to be able to have the DQS downshifting function back. I'm off the original gearing about 20%. I hate to mess with stuff and then realize I need another device to complete or worse a dealer. I wonder if there's a selective table in there. Thanks.
 
baggerman said:
Reset gears is about retraining the shifter sensor as to what gear you're in (I think we're saying the same thing). Have you tried the transmission adaptive reset function? I'd love to be able to have the DQS downshifting function back. I'm off the original gearing about 20%. I hate to mess with stuff and then realize I need another device to complete or worse a dealer. I wonder if there's a selective table in there. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I went one teeth higher on the rear. I don't feel any issues I just want to follow as Ducati says for optimum electronics. I have ordered the device I will let you know what it doed
 
baggerman said:
Reset gears is about retraining the shifter sensor as to what gear you're in (I think we're saying the same thing). Have you tried the transmission adaptive reset function? I'd love to be able to have the DQS downshifting function back. I'm off the original gearing about 20%. I hate to mess with stuff and then realize I need another device to complete or worse a dealer. I wonder if there's a selective table in there. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes, we’re talking about the same thing. Once you reset it you just get a “—“ instead of a gear or N. Starting from neutral you have to go down into first then pull the clutch, etc.

No table that I can see.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Yes, we’re talking about the same thing. Once you reset it you just get a “—“ instead of a gear or N. Starting from neutral you have to go down into first then pull the clutch, etc.

No table that I can see.
Click to expand...

I was asking about the trans adaptive reset function. I guess I'll see what it does. If it allows you to select a value like the one in the table that was posted then that's the fix. I know that the recalibrate function will allow 10 or 12 % gearing change before it refuses to recalibrate (and disables the downshifts).
 
baggerman said:
I was asking about the trans adaptive reset function. I guess I'll see what it does. If it allows you to select a value like the one in the table that was posted then that's the fix.
Click to expand...
It does not allow you to select a value, but what table are you referring to?
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I went down two in the front and had problems with the DQS downshifting.
Click to expand...

You went down to a 14 tooth front?

If so that’s a lot, I’ve tried a lot of different gearing, on fairly different tracks, and at different stages of my rider development. For awhile the stock gearing was best or even one tooth higher on the back sprocket because it sort of smoothed out the throttle application, made the bike feel less peaky or twitchy on throttle…as I got a bit faster and more confident though I’ve settled into a 15/41 setup that along with Deussen’s tune feels perfect on most of the tracks I’ve been too. That gearing combined with what feels like more torque from about 7k to 12k rpm from Deussen’s tune makes the bike feel more alive and funner, it just rips in that setup.
 
Yes, but by accident. I had a Streetfighter V4 (OEM 15/42) and went down one on the front on that bike. When I sold the SF, I put the OEM gearing back on. When I got the Panigale (OEM 16/41), I put the aftermarket front sprocket I used on the SF on it, not realizing the final drive was different between the SF and Panigale.

With the OEM gearing and Deussen's tune, I don't have any complaints about how the bike feels. I have a 15 tooth front sprocket, maybe I'll try it someday. Changing the rear is more of an investment than I want to make as I don't really have a problem I'm trying to solve. I would benefit more from track time and training than anything else.
 
My streetfighter as delivered had 10 degrees of mechanical slop in the throttle and 10 degrees of slop in the software (throttle turns 10 degrees before map is enabled). Was so hard to be smooth picking up the throttle. I assume that everyone that provides maps for these fixes the electronic part. The mechanical slop in the throttle was the first thing I did. WTF Ducati?
 
Slop on the throttle is clearly intentional imo.

I don’t like it either but it’s hard to believe that it’s a quality control issue.

Someone at Ducati obviously likes it or else it wouldn’t be there.

FWIW ‘22+ have a little bit less slip. Maybe someone listened 🤷‍♂️
 
For me the stock gearing is spot on, I see no need to change it for street/casual track days. Re throttle; Ive tried with and without throttle spacers, I removed them after a while because I think Ducati did it for a reason beyond my pay grade plus it made no difference and I am guessing it would void any factory warranty it thats important to you, a QA throttle would change things but cant see the point for predominantly street use. I think the stock mapping options are likewise pretty good. Around town at low speed intersections I could do with a smoother initial response in first, but that is a very minor "like to have" refinement like most of this thread, its splitting hairs TBH.
 
I like the motor to respond when I twist the throttle not sometime afterward. You can choke up on the throttle (which I did before the remap) so you're never returning the throttle all the way to the stop just turning the motor off or you can fix it. For me fixing the map was transformative, way easier to ride fast. As delivered the map didn't start until 10% but then went to 20% in the next 10% throttle. Hard to manage the driveline lash as it was.
 

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