Back in the shop

Vicati said:

How many miles have you put on the bike I’m wondering how often you’ve got to maintain those dry clutches.

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about 1500 miles on my bike

Bunch of new stuff ordered, will go on in a week or so.

H20 Radiator and IMA TRIPLE TREE, RCS17 Corsa Corta Brake master cylinder, and Braketech pistons for my brake calipers plus a bunch of other odds and ends like a push button starter that replaces the key (saves a pound)

At this point, it’s obvious you’re only getting started LOL. There will be more parts which begs the question, why didn’t you just start with a motor, frame and swingarm, save a bunch of $$ and not have a bunch of spare parts to sell I’m considering the Porsche build in my question. You’re obviously not good with “stock” me either so I know I’m modding everything. For me it was a lot easier to start with the main 3 and just build it. Now, that route isn’t for everyone but it seems right up your ally.

There is another member here who bought a V4 S off the floor. Literally I think the only parts left from the day he bought it are the fork legs, frame, motor and electronics. Yes he changed the swingarm all the body work, tank, subframe brakes, everything. I guess if you know you’re going to go “all in” why not just buy parts?

^^^ excellent advice. If you’re just gonna swap .... out might as well build from ground up. That’s what I’m doing with my r1.

I have the bug to go all out on my v4 now but it wouldn’t make sense since I bought the bike new.

What you’re saying makes total sense, and for most people it’s clearly the right route, I may even do just that. But there are several reasons why I didn’t do it here, the biggest one is frankly inexperience. I don’t know what I don’t know….Technically this is my third bike, but really it’s my first. I inherited my dad‘s Harley Davison about a year and a half ago and that was my first bike, I started riding it and fell in love with motorcycling, but realized I needed something with a bit more pep in handling than a Harley so, I bought the street fighter V4S.

I had it for about three or four months did some moderate modifications but realized I’d rather just go all in with a full on sport bike. At this point I knew nothing about sport bikes and had never even rode one yet, I looked into the V4R and the V4S And ended up buying the 916 Anniversario because it’s essentially a parts homolgation of a V4R and a V4S. All of this and I have never owned or done more than a test ride of a sport bike before, so I still had no idea of what modifications I would end up wanting other than I know for sure that I like likeness and I need to fit the bike to me and my size. So the modifications I made in the beginning we’re only to add lightness and fit the bike to me.

now that I have a little bit more experience riding the bike I’m making modifications to things that will help me ride faster, what I mean by that is clearly the bike is way faster than I am rider already, and certainly I’ll only really get faster with more experience and track days and instruction, but if as I’m riding it I find there’s a component that’s making me feel less confident then I replace that component. For example the brakes felt great to me with the stock master cylinders just by upgrading the brake pads to something with a bit more bite and modulation, but after putting the Sicom Rotors And pads on the bike the lever action of the master cylinder seems squishy to me and makes me feel less confident so I’m upgrading the pistons and the master cylinder to get the brake feel I want, while retaining the liteness of the SICOM setup.

I know that’s long winded LOL, but the short answer is simply inexperience, this is my first sport bike, a lot of these parts I didn’t even know existed until I learned about them from you guys, and often I don’t know that I want something new for the bike until I ride it more and uncover things I’d like to adjust as I become a more aware and proficient rider.

Another consideration is that these days I simply don’t have enough free time to spend all day wrenching in a garage, the little bit of free time that I have I’d rather be out on the bike, meaning paying somebody else to do the work that I could probably do and would enjoy doing my self, but don’t have time for, so that sort of precludes doing an engine and frame off build. Although I may end up looking for a shop that can do just that for me at some point.

I guess you could say this is my learner bike LOL

Although with all the money that I’m spending on it , it’s going to end up not too far from Superleggera Territory, so looking back on it a year from now I’ll probably end up kicking myself for not just buying a superleggera then dropping 10 grand into personalizing it and calling it done LOL

But then half the people here would think I’m a total ....... for buying a superleggera as my first bike ha ha

Ha that’s one hell of a learner bike bro. Super nice bike and will only get better! Look forward to seeing you mod it more.

agree 100% with the time aspect of it.

The superleggara comment is absolutely hilarious, and probably true lol.

I did have a question for you guys, I’m looking ahead the the clutch service, and thinking there’s got to be a better option than the factory dry clutch that’s on it, I want a much better slipper function.

Any suggestions?

Steven31371 said:

I did have a question for you guys, I’m looking ahead the the clutch service, and thinking there’s got to be a better option than the factory dry clutch that’s on it, I want a much better slipper function.

Any suggestions?

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There seem to be only a few options for clutch packs. What do you mean by you want a better slipper function? I’ve yet to have my back end get squirrelly downshifting and I’m pretty aggressive with it on the track, granted I’m on track rubber too.
Are you having issues losing the back downshifting ?

My STM dry is sitting in a box waiting to be installed this winter on the SL project so I’m zero help. I am running the EVR on the current bike. Not sure overall if it’s any better than stock as I have not ridden anything but the EVR

brad8266 said:

There seem to be only a few options for clutch packs. What do you mean by you want a better slipper function? I’ve yet to have my back end get squirrelly downshifting and I’m pretty aggressive with it on the track, granted I’m on track rubber too.
Are you having issues losing the back downshifting ?

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no but I feel like it could be smoother, on up shifts it hits hard and on downshifts there is more noticeable pull than I’d like…though tbh a lot of that could be from me just needing to get better at blip shifting with the throttle.

Steven31371 said:

no but I feel like it could be smoother, on up shifts it hits hard and on downshifts there is more noticeable pull than I’d like…though tbh a lot of that could be from need just needing to get better at blip shifting with the throttle.

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To be clear, are you referring to shifting using the clutch? If so, yeah you may need to be smoother with your shifts and throttle. I assumed you were talking using the quick shifter.

The slipper function is designed to allow high rev downshifting without locking the wheel.Slipper is the function of a ramp adjuster in the clutch hub/basket, it’s not a function of the friction discs.

I believe there are stiffer springs available for the slipper clutch from Ducati.

RickD996 said:

I believe there are stiffer springs available for the slipper clutch from Ducati.

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How stiff is the stock dry clutch? The stock wet clutch, a 3 year old could hold at a stop light. That fricken 6 spring EVR, different story

Yeah pay attention folks the EVR with the wrong master cylinder and clutch slave let the arm pumping begin lol

endodoc said:

How stiff is the stock dry clutch? The stock wet clutch, a 3 year old could hold at a stop light. That fricken 6 spring EVR, different story

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I believe the spring effects the slipper action, not the weight of the lever. Could be wrong though!

Steven31371 said:

no but I feel like it could be smoother, on up shifts it hits hard and on downshifts there is more noticeable pull than I’d like…though tbh a lot of that could be from me just needing to get better at blip shifting with the throttle.

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You know something that isn’t mentioned a lot is are the dynamics involved with the QS setup and gearbox on these bikes. Shifting up/down is very smooth at high rpm. Lower in the rev range I see a lot of guys complain about the gearbox and lack of consistent feel. I just don’t think this system is at all optimized for clutch less shifting at low rpm. I routinely use the clutch when going through the gears on the street.

A better QS certainly helps but the gearbox itself is more of an issue. I’m putting the Nova in the streetfighter along with the F-18 shift box components to see how that works. There is a lot of distance to cover (shift lever throw) on the stock box.

The RS box supposedly has a much shorter throw. I actually have one of the TL powershifters sitting in a box. I’m half tempted to play with that.

endodoc said:

You know something that isn’t mentioned a lot is are the dynamics involved with the QS setup and gearbox on these bikes. Shifting up/down is very smooth at high rpm. Lower in the rev range I see a lot of guys complain about the gearbox and lack of consistent feel. I just don’t think this system is at all optimized for clutch less shifting at low rpm. I routinely use the clutch when going through the gears on the street.

A better QS certainly helps but the gearbox itself is more of an issue. I’m putting the Nova in the streetfighter along with the F-18 shift box components to see how that works. There is a lot of distance to cover (shift lever throw) on the stock box.

The RS box supposedly has a much shorter throw. I actually have one of the TL powershifters sitting in a box. I’m half tempted to play with that.

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The gearbox is all mechanical so there’s very little to no inconsistency there. The issue is how the ignition gets back in after it’s cut and how that’s tuned over the entire rev & load range simultaneously. It’s a tedious process to get perfect and it’s apparent that the guys at Borgo Panigale didn’t put the time in to achieve that.


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Agreed and I was using the term gearbox as a whole, I should have been more specific. That being said I have used the Nova gearbox and related hardware and it is noticeable less clunky than the stock box.

Alkhater said:

The gearbox is all mechanical so there’s very little to no inconsistency there. The issue is how the ignition gets back in after it’s cut and how that’s tuned over the entire rev & load range simultaneously. It’s a tedious process to get perfect and it’s apparent that the guys at Borgo Panigale didn’t put the time in to achieve that

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My builder said something similar, and suggested that a stand-alone system (like the IRC or HM) might perform better than a p&p QS like the Translogic or Cordona because it replaces the oem QS circuit in addition to the sensor.

endodoc said:

Agreed and I was using the term gearbox as a whole, I should have been more specific. That being said I have used the Nova gearbox and related hardware and it is noticeable less clunky than the stock box.

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I just watched one of the SBU videos last night and Freddy said the same thing - something like “it’s hard to describe but it just feels better at the lever.”