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I suspect as said above that a lot of it is programming, when I had the Streetfighter and put the new switches and those little red throttle spacers that prevent free play in the throttle it messed up the QS so it didn’t even work in all gears, the tech at Ducati said the spacers had messed with the throttle position sensor just enough to mess with the shift programming.

On my Anniversario even with the Córdoba on there it’s inconsistent, sometimes shift smooth and flawlessly, sometimes very rough, sometimes not at all and I have to use the clutch lever.
 
Steven31371 said:
… On my Anniversario even with the Córdoba on there it’s inconsistent, sometimes shift smooth and flawlessly, sometimes very rough, sometimes not at all and I have to use the clutch lever.
Click to expand...

Similar on my v4 base. Seems worse when hot too. Consistent across the oem and then Translogic quick shifters. Has me wondering if it’s something I’m doing. The cordona seems better, but still occasional issues.
 
craig bush said:
Similar on my v4 base. Seems worse when hot too. Consistent across the oem and then Translogic quick shifters. Has me wondering if it’s something I’m doing. The cordona seems better, but still occasional issues.
Click to expand...

If it was really well programmed and set up it shouldn’t be subject to ‘what we are doing’ within reason on street bikes…when you get into race territory on any type of vehicle you have to learn the idiosyncrasies of the super high performance components. That’s just the nature of physics and high performance engineering, often you gain somewhere but have to give up something else.

although to be fair to Ducati they do say the QS is a track spec functionality, and does have to be treated abs used that way, along with that comes the implicit knowledge that you do have to engage with it ‘in a certain way’ for best functionality.

i’m gunna head out on the bike for a bit shortly…to try out some new suspension adjustments…will try only shifting at higher rpm to see if it’s consistent at higher rpm.
 
craig bush said:
Similar on my v4 base. Seems worse when hot too. Consistent across the oem and then Translogic quick shifters. Has me wondering if it’s something I’m doing. The cordona seems better, but still occasional issues.
Click to expand...
Is the inconsistency at all RPMs? Like I said, 9k stock gearbox with the cordona, super consistent up and down. Very little actuation pressure. Lower RPM street riding, yes very inconsistent. I just think the system in general is designed for racing like applications. The close ratio box and associated hardware is a lot better however I haven’t ridden that box on the street and it wasn’t using stock electronics.

Like was mentioned I think bypassing the ECU and going to a direct coil interface might be a better solution. All the monkey business is taking place in the ECU weather Mitts or Siemens. I guess some of the QC have a logic box with them but your still ultimately going through the stock electronics as an interface.
 
Steven31371 said:
If it was really well programmed and set up it shouldn’t be subject to ‘what we are doing’ within reason on street bikes…when you get into race territory on any type of vehicle you have to learn the idiosyncrasies of the super high performance components. That’s just the nature of physics and high performance engineering, often you gain somewhere but have to give up something else.

although to be fair to Ducati they do say the QS is a track spec functionality, and does have to be treated abs used that way, along with that comes the implicit knowledge that you do have to engage with it ‘in a certain way’ for best functionality.

i’m gunna head out on the bike for a bit shortly…to try out some new suspension adjustments…will try only shifting at higher rpm to see if it’s consistent at higher rpm.
Click to expand...

It’s arguably more difficult to tune a quick shifter for road use than track use… there more range in the variables to consider i.e. throttle position, load and rpm.


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Alkhater said:
It’s arguably more difficult to tune a quick shifter for road use than track use… there more range in the variables to consider i.e. throttle position, load and rpm.


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Click to expand...

yeah and undoubtably you’d probably have to give up something on the top end to make it more accessible on the lower end of the RPM range.
 
endodoc said:
Is the inconsistency at all RPMs? Like I said, 9k stock gearbox with the cordona, super consistent up and down. Very little actuation pressure. Lower RPM street riding, yes very inconsistent. I just think the system in general is designed for racing like applications. The close ratio box and associated hardware is a lot better however I haven’t ridden that box on the street and it wasn’t using stock electronics.

Like was mentioned I think bypassing the ECU and going to a direct coil interface might be a better solution. All the monkey business is taking place in the ECU weather Mitts or Siemens. I guess some of the QC have a logic box with them but your still ultimately going through the stock electronics as an interface.
Click to expand...

Even the stock electronics can be manipulated in the same way a full stand alone ECU can. From what I’ve gathered so far… Dimsport based tuners like brenn and slr have the ability to fully control the gear/ignition cut procedure. This is on the Conti/V4 ecu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey Steven. On the suspension. When I ran the carbon rotors with a mag front wheel, light calipers and hardware, the bike did not feel as planted. I actually prefer the steel rotors for that reason. Now the new build is even lighter in the front (trying the rotors again) so I’m guessing my issues were suspension related. I can’t imagine not having to making at least some rebound adjustment to compensate for the dampening. I’m going to get it set up then have the suspension looked at.
 
Steven31371 said:
If it was really well programmed and set up it shouldn’t be subject to ‘what we are doing’ within reason on street bikes…when you get into race territory on any type of vehicle you have to learn the idiosyncrasies of the super high performance components. That’s just the nature of physics and high performance engineering, often you gain somewhere but have to give up something else.

although to be fair to Ducati they do say the QS is a track spec functionality, and does have to be treated abs used that way, along with that comes the implicit knowledge that you do have to engage with it ‘in a certain way’ for best functionality.

i’m gunna head out on the bike for a bit shortly…to try out some new suspension adjustments…will try only shifting at higher rpm to see if it’s consistent at higher rpm.
Click to expand...

Agreed regarding track use vs street use and sacrifice with high end parts - you almost never get to have your cake and eat it too. I have a high hp supra. At one point, it was running a GForce Gf5r straight cut, face plated manual with a vertically gated shifter (similar to a pro-stock drag car setup). It was a lot of fun when in it to win it, but totally suckedat anything less than 9/10


endodoc said:
Is the inconsistency at all RPMs? Like I said, 9k stock gearbox with the cordona, super consistent up and down. Very little actuation pressure. Lower RPM street riding, yes very inconsistent. I just think the system in general is designed for racing like applications. The close ratio box and associated hardware is a lot better however I haven’t ridden that box on the street and it wasn’t using stock electronics.

Like was mentioned I think bypassing the ECU and going to a direct coil interface might be a better solution. All the monkey business is taking place in the ECU weather Mitts or Siemens. I guess some of the QC have a logic box with them but your still ultimately going through the stock electronics as an interface.
Click to expand...

Not so much rpm dependent, as my bike sees only track use. More so it seems fine until it gets hot and then randomly starts having issues shifting - usually manifesting as simply won’t shift without using the clutch, but occasionally, and more problematically, cuts on an up shift but then re-engages the same gear at redline which can be an unsettling experience. :p

Edit - regarding bypassing the oem ecu and managing the cut strategy, that’s exactly what Brad and I were discussing. He was suggesting that because the stand-alone qs systems like IRC completely bypass the oem ecu they might be significantly better.
 
Alkhater said:
Even the stock electronics can be manipulated in the same way a full stand alone ECU can. From what I’ve gathered so far… Dimsport based tuners like brenn and slr have the ability to fully control the gear/ignition cut procedure. This is on the Conti/V4 ecu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Does anyone have any feedback on that? I know there are parameters in the Woolich software for that but they are disabled for Ducati. I have seen time in ms for ignition interrupt but not much more. Now the MM system I’m putting on the new bike has a whole section devoted to that but that’s a different animal
 
Steven31371 said:
yeah and undoubtably you’d probably have to give up something on the top end to make it more accessible on the lower end of the RPM range.
Click to expand...

Not in this case. It just takes a lot of time to get it right. Imagine… the tuner would have to programme the ignition advance and *how hard it ramps in* for every throttle position/load cell vs rpm (in every gear) in what could be a 20x20 map. And unlike in gear fuel and ignition tuning where a tuner can extrapolate data to fill in gaps, quick shifter tuning is a bit more difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
endodoc said:
Hey Steven. On the suspension. When I ran the carbon rotors with a mag front wheel, light calipers and hardware, the bike did not feel as planted. I actually prefer the steel rotors for that reason. Now the new build is even lighter in the front (trying the rotors again) so I’m guessing my issues were suspension related. I can’t imagine not having to making at least some rebound adjustment to compensate for the dampening. I’m going to get it set up then have the suspension looked at.
Click to expand...

I’m working with Dave Moss on mine, out doing some testing right now.

For sure without those gyroscopic forces it feels less stable especially on the highway and especially in the front end. And those rotors made a much bigger difference than the CF wheels did.

One of the main reasons I ordered the IMA triple tree is that you can adjust the front rake…the bike turns in beyond my current capabilities as a rider so I’m going push the front wheel out a bit, which will make me give up some turn in but gain some front stability…as I improve my riding skill and get some track time and instruction I’ll adjust more turn in back into it and trade off some stability
 
I put the Puig windscreen on last night, figment issues galore but got in on, mostly was a visual thing, the black just looks better with this livery, but I will say the little turn up lip at the back edge of the windscreen did reduce wind buffeting over the stock screen.
06A804DF-6E60-4F6C-82ED-AFE72A9FB4D9.jpeg
0CB2B76E-1B52-48D8-98D0-8B2AAF1F51F1.jpeg
 
Very good test ride today, felt more stable all round with some suspension adjustments.

was a good ride, I felt like a superhero on that bike today lol

I’m slow as hell but having fun haha….dusted a few guys through some fast long sweeper curves today.

was paying close attention to the blip shifter, it’s VERY reliable within a very small window.

on upshifts above 8500 rpm WHILE accelerating hard, at WOT and high rpm it’s great, while modulating the throttle not so much

on down shifts only on full throttle lift, even under partial throttle it begins to get less reliable.

I was reading that the 2022 models may have a new trick trans/clutch system

https://www.cycleworld.com/story/bikes/ducati-seamless-shift-transmission/
 
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Good to hear, I threw on the old Braketech CMC and went about 70 miles in the mountains today. Definitely felt weird. The Sicoms with the Thyssenkrupps is going to be a little strange for sure. I think getting the suspension sorted is key. Good feedback man
 
Steven31371 said:
I put the Puig windscreen on last night, figment issues galore but got in on, mostly was a visual thing, the black just looks better with this livery, but I will say the little turn up lip at the back edge of the windscreen did reduce wind buffeting over the stock screen.View attachment 38997View attachment 38998
Click to expand...

I have replaced a few windscreens. Buy some humostats for $15. They will make the job much easier.
 

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  • 18374067-6B01-4AC3-9B30-E72F8D18B3AD.jpeg
    18374067-6B01-4AC3-9B30-E72F8D18B3AD.jpeg
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youpaiyou said:
I have replaced a few windscreens. Buy some humostats for $15. They will make the job much easier.
Click to expand...

i just took the front top fairing off, fairly easy, the problem was that the Puig screw holes line up really poorly…you have to ‘flex’ things into shape and then get the turn signals screws back onto the fairing through the rear windscreen wholes, so it’s really hard to get the screw threads to bite and even harder to not cross thread them after you do.

I have integrated turn signals where the rear view mirrors were.
 
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youpaiyou said:
Taking the front top fairing is definitely the right way to do it. Hemostats are the quick and dirty way to do the job.
Click to expand...

That Puig fits so poorly that I think I’d being cursing and throwing tools across the garage all night trying to get those screws threaded with hemostats haha

once it’s on it’s a nice piece, less wind buffeting than the double bubble I had on there, despite being a bit shorter.

you’ve tried several, what’s your favorite windscreen and what did you like about it?
 

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