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Tbf, if I had a V2, I would also stop riding it.
DQS not working on downshifts
- Thread starter BP PanigaleV4S
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You are on a roll! lol
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Brutal. 
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LOL, lots of funny comments on here. I have six motorcycles, so the V2 shift issues are just the universe's way of telling me to spend more time on the other bikes and to give the V2 a rest. The replacement price is not an issue. I just don't want to chase my tail and would rather spend time fixing it for good, which means trying to find a permanent solution. For now, I am just tired of thinking about it and changing sprockets. I'll ride my other bikes for a while and focus on this V2 issue later.
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I've been following this thread hoping someone had a legitimate "fix". I too, have random QS downshift failures at the track. I also have added 2 teeth to the rear, which seems to help quite a bit at the track, and can't understand if that really is the cause for this random failure. If a solution is found, please do share!
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I went to buy a spare QS a few days ago, they've gone from £85 to £275. Which, isn't far off an HM qs now. That would be a good solution...
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I also noticed the stock QS price has increased. I have rear sets on order and will order an aftermarket QS soon. I don't know if it will fix the issue (some say no) but I am tired of dealing with this OEM QS. Almost went off the track at the last track day due to a missed downshift. Crazy thing was that it only missed one downshift during the entire track day. No rhyme or reason that I can see.
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I would not spend $335 USD for the stock QS but I would be happy to sell you one at that price.
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Hmm, tricky one. Could either be the first indication of failure, or imperfect usage...
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I would think the V2 bikes wouldn't have the heat problems with the QS like the V4 would.
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Not imperfect use since it doesn't work no matter how many times you hit it (once it fails) and only starts working again after you use the clutch at least once. Not the clutch switch either, since I hard wired mine (to test), and the downshift still failed eventually. Good guess, though.
Agree. Mine has failed just after a cold start on a cold day, so it is probably not due to a heat issue.
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Yeah, that's how mine was when it was acting up. Once you used the clutch and downshifted it would start working until it stopped working...again. It was pretty consistently not working though.
Reset all of the QS adaptives, set tire calibration to default then performed a fresh tire calibration. Has been working fine since. I even swapped back to the Cordona after going with GP shift on the Rizoma/Ducati rearsets. It works much better that way IMO. I think it has to do with the voltage the Cordona is outputting.
Any one of the 3 wire +5V quickshifters on the market all basically work the same. They have a ground, +5V and a signal wire. At idle, the unit sends +2.5V to the ECU on the signal wire.
For a downshift, the signal is +1.8V and for an upshift +3.8V...approximately.
I think the issue with the Cordona is that the amount of force you use changes the voltage, and upshift with standard shift were very problematic. If you apply too much force the voltage shoots past the +3.8V, not likely in a dangerous to the circuit kind of a way, but probably enough to make the ECU shrug its shoulders and never cut the ignition like its suppose to.
Can you please elaborate on what this actually means? I'm a Ducati noob.
First thanks for all the good info on this thread I have spent the past few hr or so reading all posts.
Second - I was looking to change the gearing on my MY22 V4 as the stock gearing seems rather sluggish on the track, to avoid, or try to avoid the issues discussed here, should I just do a -1 in the front or a +2 in the rear and reset all adaptives / set tire calibration
Thanks for your help!
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To reset adaptive values you need the dealer diagnostic tool, the DDS 2.0 or what ever revision its up to now. There are at home versions of it, a Texa Navigator or its knock-off an OBDStar iScan Ducati.
Tire calibration is a normal menu item you get to using the left controls. If you change the gearing or tire size you do the tire calibration procedure. You activate it using the controls then ride at 30mph in 2nd gear until the calibration is complete which takes just a few seconds.
My problem began when I let the dealer do the first service. I suspect when they checked and updated the software something got hosed up. Using an iScan I could see the ECU was getting the correct signal from the QS, but was ignoring it intermittently.
I reset the adaptives, set the tire calibration to default and then performed a fresh tire calibration.
I had originally tried a -2 in the front, but it seemed to run out of umph at the upper end of the RPM range, kind of too short. Went back to stock, felt a little sluggish down low especially at street speeds. Now its currently at -1 in the front, OEM rear. I forget at which point in all this the dealer would have done the service and when the QS problems started.
Tire calibration is a normal menu item you get to using the left controls. If you change the gearing or tire size you do the tire calibration procedure. You activate it using the controls then ride at 30mph in 2nd gear until the calibration is complete which takes just a few seconds.
My problem began when I let the dealer do the first service. I suspect when they checked and updated the software something got hosed up. Using an iScan I could see the ECU was getting the correct signal from the QS, but was ignoring it intermittently.
I reset the adaptives, set the tire calibration to default and then performed a fresh tire calibration.
I had originally tried a -2 in the front, but it seemed to run out of umph at the upper end of the RPM range, kind of too short. Went back to stock, felt a little sluggish down low especially at street speeds. Now its currently at -1 in the front, OEM rear. I forget at which point in all this the dealer would have done the service and when the QS problems started.
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Number one rule of software/firmware...If its running as it should, don't update ..... You never know what's going to get broken.
Thanks man!
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I dumped a latte on my QS. Now works great. Oh wait, I traded that stupid QS issue bike in already. Sorry...
BTW, no issues on track with the older MY R versus the 21 V4 that had the insulated qs module
BTW, no issues on track with the older MY R versus the 21 V4 that had the insulated qs module
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Finding this thread very late, but I wanted to reach out and see how your QS is doing and if it's been working great if you've stuck with the settings you laid out here. I'm on a '21 SFV4S which never had great shifting since new, so I've been hunting for something resembling the performance of the aftermarket units I've installed on other bikes.. unfortunately the bike bricks with DQS Err since September '22 regardless the combination of hardware and resets I try. Typically it's the downshifts that seem to be the problem as I have similar symptoms to others on this thread where downshifts are intermittent if at all.
Been through a Cordona as well as Translogic, and now back to the OEM unit on stock mapping, but before September it was at least functional with the Cordona for 1 1/2 years. The dealer blamed the Cordona after keeping the bike for 3 weeks & telling me it needed additional harnesses to run GP shift! This has been an incredibly frustrating issue for such an amazing machine, especially as I added an IRC blipper/QS to my Monster R which never had any type of quickshifter in the first place and it is sublime. Just want my track days to be less death-defying.
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What frustrates me is the obd devices don't allow you to input the sprocket combination. My gearing is so far from stock the relearn doesn't work. So no clutchless downshifts.
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