Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread

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Good choice Raul, :D
I remember you like the AELLA clip on handlebar because it's shiny so it color match the Mellotti Racing Upper triple clamp plus no holes (from ex the factory switch).
They said I would have to wait if I wanted the one without holes so I bought the one with holes. I had to wait 6 weeks as it is. You cannot see holes now with position of levers and switches so all good.
 
A few tweaks to go but she is installed
very nice!! so all the oem ancillary parts fitted to the new master cylinder to connect up? and do you have a contact at HEL for me to order up that brake line from abs to rear master cylinder? :)
 
I love wh
very nice!! so all the oem ancillary parts fitted to the new master cylinder to connect up? and do you have a contact at HEL for me to order up that brake line from abs to rear master cylinder? :)
Hi Chris speak to Danny King from Hel. I have the rizoma rear sets so it works with them. You will need 15mm spacers and 5mm spacers to clear the exhaust and for the the heal guard. You will also need to remove the rubber seal on the master cylinder. Apart from that you are all good. I’ll take some more pics to explain installation.
 
After waiting for a few months, finally more parts arrive from Japan :D

First, the AELLA TieDown Bracket for Ducati Super Sport 939, as usual very nice machining and anodizing from AELLA Japan but why do I buy them for???
IMG_8251.JPG

Well, it will be use as bracket for the Front Ducati by Rizoma Brake and Clutch Reservoir. Also the good thing is one of the M8 holes on this AELLA bracket have a "spacer",
and it fit perfectly on the Ducati by Rizoma Mirror Adapter to "go over and above" the Bike Sport Development Start Switch:

IMG_8252.JPGIMG_8253.JPG

Now, since the Ducati by Rizoma Mirror Bracket accept an M10 thread, and the AELLA tie down bracket only have holes that can accept M8, I need to purchase another thread insert from M10 to M8. After that of course more ProTi bolts.
On the Ducati by Rizoma Brake Fluid reservoir, I will need perhaps a 5mm spacer to make it pass the "hump" cause by the outlet nipple. This can be done easily.

Second things that arrived today is the Gold TITANIUM Lever Pivot Bolt for the Brembo RCS Corsa Corta, I bought 2 pieces, one for the future Clutch Master Cylinder.
ProTi also made similar Pivot Bolt but I like the design of the KOHKEN better, so I buy from Kohken:
IMG_8255.JPG

Before install: After Install:
IMG_8256.JPGIMG_8259.JPG

Before Install: After Install:
IMG_8257.JPGIMG_8260.JPG


And I also buy Kohken Clutch Switch Kit for the future 16RCS Corsa Corta Master Cylinder:
IMG_8254.JPG

Last, I bought the USB Charger (with Digital Voltage Monitor, so I can monitor the battery voltage to see when I need to trickle charge), plus maybe is somehow someway, I "need to ride" the bike and need my phone as GPS :p
Note this model have the highest and fastest charging capability, plus it have a normal USB port and USB-C port
IMG_8248.JPG
 
Continue below due to 10 pictures per post limit:

I am about to purchase a ProTi M6 nut for the Pivot Lever, but when I double check with my notes, turn out, I already purchase the ProTi Titanium M6 nuts:
IMG_8263.JPG

But I don't like the White Nylon Color of the Self Locking Nut so I use Sharpie :D to make it black:
IMG_8264.JPG

Then install it:
IMG_8265.JPG
 
I love wh

Hi Chris speak to Danny King from Hel. I have the rizoma rear sets so it works with them. You will need 15mm spacers and 5mm spacers to clear the exhaust and for the the heal guard. You will also need to remove the rubber seal on the master cylinder. Apart from that you are all good. I’ll take some more pics to explain installation.
great thanks. my speciale has the rizoma rearsets too, so should be all good!
 
Thank You for your kind word Tyleydurden :)

By the way, I just found and purchased a solution for the Electronic Switch on the clutch side. The RCS 16 Corsa Corta Clutch Master Cylinder will not come with a switch unlike the RCS 17 Corsa Corta Brake Master Cylinder.
And Kohken from Japan has a bolt on solution:
ブレンボラジアルマスターシリンダー用機械式スイッチキット【RCSラジアルクラッチマスター用】 [KOK-2002] - 4,180円 : KOHKENダイレクトSHOP

KOK-2002_1.jpg


KOK-2002_2.jpg
Hi Howard what is the green cable for? I am going to remove my pressure switch and install this instead. Thanks
 
Hi Howard what is the green cable for? I am going to remove my pressure switch and install this instead. Thanks

Hi Raul,
I really don't know for sure because I have not check the wiring on my bike (the factory wiring), and I won't touch it until the RCS16 Corsa Corta is available sometimes in the fall/winter this year.

However, this is just a simple switch and when a simple switch have 3 cable, that mean, One wire is for Normally Closed Position, One wire is for Normally Open Position, and One wire is for Ground (or common).
Normally Closed means, when the switch is in it's relaxes state (not pushed in), that wire is connected to the ground/common and one the switch is pushed in, that wire will be disconnected from the ground/common.
Normally Open will be the opposite of the above.

You can check this function with a Multi Meter.
I hope this helps.

If our bike only have 2 wire coming to the factory switch, then you only have to use 2 wires from the Kohken Switch but make sure you check how the factory switch is... (check is it a Normally Closed or Normally Open, but if I am guessing, the factory switch is a normally open one just like the brake side switch).

Note: that instruction is only in Japanese, so if you use a smartphone with Google translator, you might be able to use the camera on the smartphone to scanned it and get you real time translation.
 
Hi Raul,
I really don't know for sure because I have not check the wiring on my bike (the factory wiring), and I won't touch it until the RCS16 Corsa Corta is available sometimes in the fall/winter this year.

However, this is just a simple switch and when a simple switch have 3 cable, that mean, One wire is for Normally Closed Position, One wire is for Normally Open Position, and One wire is for Ground (or common).
Normally Closed means, when the switch is in it's relaxes state (not pushed in), that wire is connected to the ground/common and one the switch is pushed in, that wire will be disconnected from the ground/common.
Normally Open will be the opposite of the above.

You can check this function with a Multi Meter.
I hope this helps.

If our bike only have 2 wire coming to the factory switch, then you only have to use 2 wires from the Kohken Switch but make sure you check how the factory switch is... (check is it a Normally Closed or Normally Open, but if I am guessing, the factory switch is a normally open one just like the brake side switch).

Note: that instruction is only in Japanese, so if you use a smartphone with Google translator, you might be able to use the camera on the smartphone to scanned it and get you real time translation.
I don’t have a meter can you test your one please? There are only two cables on the factory one. Thanks
 
I don’t have a meter can you test your one please? There are only two cables on the factory one. Thanks

To properly test it, this means I also need to test the switch on the Ducati factory clutch master cylinder (to be sure they are Normally Open or Normally Closed). Since the wire of the factory switch ended in a socket,
I will need to disconnect the socket, and I might need to stick a thin wire/paper clip then test them and compare it with the Kohken.
I don't want to do all the above now since I am not going to work on them until a few months from now.

You need to purchase a multimeter, it will be very useful since you will be doing more modification (and it works for many things in your house or electronic equipment too).

My multimeter is Fluke model 87-V, but you can always purchase other brands at Amazon UK:
here is link to Fluke brand:
Amazon.co.uk : fluke multimeter

here is link to any multimeter and they are very cheap:
Amazon.co.uk : multimeter

If you don't want to do the above, you can always do a connect and test, until you find the right cable to connect to which cable. it won't hurt the engine, because there is no real polarity in this situation.
 
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To properly test it, this means I also need to test the switch on the Ducati factory clutch master cylinder (to be sure they are Normally Open or Normally Closed). Since the wire of the factory switch ended in a socket,
I will need to disconnect the socket, and I might need to stick a thin wire/paper clip then test them and compare it with the Kohken.
I don't want to do all the above now since I am not going to work on them until a few months from now.

You need to purchase a multimeter, it will be very useful since you will be doing more modification (and it works for many things in your house or electronic equipment too).

My multimeter is Fluke model 87-V, but you can always purchase other brands at Amazon UK:
here is link to Fluke brand:
Amazon.co.uk : fluke multimeter

here is link to any multimeter and they are very cheap:
Amazon.co.uk : multimeter

If you don't want to do the above, you can always do a connect and test, until you find the right cable to connect to which cable. it won't hurt the engine, because there is no real polarity in this situation.
How can I test? You can start the bike without depressing clutch correct?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
How can I test? You can start the bike without depressing clutch correct?

You need to put the bike in gear (but be careful, put the bike on the rear stand and hold the front brake hard to make sure the bike don't launch forward),

and try to start the bike. If it start, that mean wrong connection. If it did not start, (you are 50% correct for sure).

to make sure you are 100% correct, pull the clutch lever, and if now it start (with the bike still in gear), then you got everything right.
 
UPS just ring my door bell :D

I had been waiting since March (4 months ago) for this, finally Brembo catch up with production, and for sure this is "FRESH from the OVEN" after Brembo reopen their operation again :p

The T-Drive:
IMG_8270.JPGIMG_8271.JPG
IMG_8272.JPGIMG_8273.JPG

Also, late last night I mock up all the bolts and spacer I need to install my Ducati by Rizoma reservoir with the AELLA tie-down bracket and here it is, of course it will have all Gold ProTi Titanium Bolt with the correct length and head diameter plus some Gold thin Spacer instead of silver aluminum color. I am pretty sure they will clear the front fairing, but if not, then I already have some ideas, however, this needs to wait until I fit the fairing back (after I purchase equipment needed for paint correction and also did ceramic coating) sometimes by the end of this year (hopefully)... still long way to go...

IMG_8268.JPG
 
Last edited:

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