Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread

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Thank you Howard I shall try what you say and report back with results. So do you think that micro switch is better than a pressure switch? Thanks

Hi Raul,
Yes, a micro switch is a much simpler solution, and simple is always better when it come to electro mechanical thing. (Lighter too, not much but lighter). And also I think it is not pretty to see a wire coming out of a banjo bolt top surface.
You can also hear the click (good indication of the switch working mechanically) and you can also see with your eyes the movement of the push pin of the microswitch.
A pressure switch is also a mechanical switch but activated with hydraulic movement, and if somehow you have hydraulic leak on you clutch system, it might not push the pressure switch enough for the mechanical switch inside.

but, again, it is easier to just use the multimeter, and set it to "ohms" reading. if the circuit/switch is in close position (connected), then the ohms reading will be close to zero (very low resistance).
if the switch is open position (disconnected) then the ohms reading will either be "infinity" or did not show any reading at all.

My Fluke multimeter can even have "beeping sound" if the circuit/switch is in close position. You can also measure voltage of your battery (real accurate value if you buy a nice multimeter like Fluke), which you might use for your car battery too.

I am sure there are also a lot of YouTube video showing how to use multimeters. I hope it helps.
 
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Those T drives are excellent performers. Nice choice!

Thanks HKMP7,

I am in a dilemma now though, should I just buy a GP4-MS now and maybe paint it to look like the older era hard anodized color...

or wait maybe a year at least to see if Brembo will issue a road version of those new GP4 MotoGP caliper with the cooling fins...

or maybe just buy the new GP4-RR in 100mm spacing which already have a nice gold color, however, this means I need to replace my 17RCS Corsa Corta with a 19RCS Corsa Corta and the GP4-RR does not have the seal for road use...

I talked to Brembo a few days ago, and they confirm that the new GP4-RR will be available in 100mm spacing, however the covid19 situation delays everything...
 
Thanks HKMP7,

I am in a dilemma now though, should I just buy a GP4-MS now and maybe paint it to look like the older era hard anodized color...

or wait maybe a year at least to see if Brembo will issue a road version of those new GP4 MotoGP caliper with the cooling fins...

or maybe just buy the new GP4-RR in 100mm spacing which already have a nice gold color, however, this means I need to replace my 17RCS Corsa Corta with a 19RCS Corsa Corta and the GP4-RR does not have the seal for road use...

I talked to Brembo a few days ago, and they confirm that the new GP4-RR will be available in 100mm spacing, however the covid19 situation delays everything...

Definitively a tough decision I think I would go with the GP4-RR. I love that they have the old school superbike caliper color.
 
Thanks HKMP7,

I am in a dilemma now though, should I just buy a GP4-MS now and maybe paint it to look like the older era hard anodized color...

or wait maybe a year at least to see if Brembo will issue a road version of those new GP4 MotoGP caliper with the cooling fins...

or maybe just buy the new GP4-RR in 100mm spacing which already have a nice gold color, however, this means I need to replace my 17RCS Corsa Corta with a 19RCS Corsa Corta and the GP4-RR does not have the seal for road use...

I talked to Brembo a few days ago, and they confirm that the new GP4-RR will be available in 100mm spacing, however the covid19 situation delays everything...


If it was me I would just wait for the GP4 in road version with fins. It would be something to look forward to and a fun thing to your bike in the future. I am sure this time next year they will have fins on road going versions. I have looked at the MS as I like the the beautiful look of the nickel plate. However I am also looking at weight so considering Sicom discs instead of changing out the calipers. Trade off between unsparing weight and bling for me. Of course if money was not option. The M50 on my bike is a very good caliber and is monoblock. Talking to the brembo supplier here in Oz the GP4-RR should be used with a narrow band disc..

The T drives look very good and I have good things about performance. You may notice a rattle with them. Have heard this from several guys who had full floating discs. For static display of course will never be an issue. :)
 
Hi Howard, what is the bolt torque settings for the M6 bolts on the clutch cover? Thanks

Hi Raul,
I forgot, it had been a while.
However, I have better solutions, you can download the service manual for Panigale V4 from this link (provided by a fellow Ducati Forum Member): V4S MANUAL-20190209T232713Z-001.zip
In that service manual you will find all the torque setting for every bolts on our bike.
 
Hi Howard took a look and cannot find it. Can you help? Thanks

Hi Raul,

It's in the service manual with the link that I gave you above. That is where I find all the information needed to do a proper work on my bike.

After you download it, then you need to extract the zip folder, (right click on the zip file and click extract all, then press enter).
Then search for a PDF document title "REFITTING Clutch Cover", inside the extracted folder. Remember for every parts, all torque value is always in the PDF document with the title "REFITTING" or "REASSEMBLING" and NOT dissembling.
You can also search for PDF documents titled "CLUTCH COVER" and it will show several PDF documents and just select "REFITTING"

I can find it for you of course, but I do not want to do it, because then you always be dependent on me. Then what if I am no longer active in this forum? or I am not available? or If something happened to me?
So, Instead, I am going to give you guidance on how to find it so this way, you can learn more from doing it yourself and be independent.

Beside, not only you find torque value there, you might also find out whether you need grease or anti seize or Loctite applied on the bolts (or other steps you need to take to do it properly).
 
The past 3 weekend, I spent many hours polishing the suspension bracket while learning on the fly.
And I must have spent at least 30 hours polishing this one single bracket using dremel from matte finish to polished finish.
Experimenting with many different grit of abrasive wheel, polishing compound and paste combination.
Also, learning the direction and pressure.
Many times also spent to eliminate the scratches I made when my dremel tool "jump and skip" and hit another surface (which most of the time already polished) and polish it again...
Hopefully this polishing will make it look better (shinier) when I anodized it in the next few weeks.
I still have 2 more rear suspension bracket/link to polish... I will do it next week, I am too tired now, but I think I should be able to do it just a bit faster now, thanks to the Power of Learning while Doing :D

This is before:
IMG_8215.JPG


This is AFTER:
IMG_8287.JPG
IMG_8289.JPG

IMG_8290.JPG
 
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Looks fantastic, congrats!

Make sure you protect the finish with something so that it continues to look great. One product you can consider but there are many others: Sharkhide

Thanks CoolSparky :D

On the part (pictured above), it will be anodized in gold color along with many other parts,
however,
I will need to protect one of the rear suspension link (the one with built in rubber bushing and bearing) after I polish it because I will not anodized that one link since I want it in natural aluminum polish color so it show some color contrast.
Plus I don't feel like pressing the bushing (although I do have a bushing/bearing press in my garage, but just don't feel like doing it). I will look into Sharkhide for this particular suspension link. Thanks again CoolSparky :D


Also, for everyone thinking of buying parts that only available from Motocorse Japan, it is best to just buy direct from Japan by using Japanese buying service like JapanParts or Buyee (if you buying part on Rakuten or Yahoo Japan).

I ordered the motocorse steering stem cover through Bellissimoto because I have a lot of rewards point from buying all the ProTi, however, Bellissimoto only can deal with Motocorse Italy,
so my parts have to be shipped from Motocorse Japan to Motocorse Italy, then to Bellissimoto in Las Vegas then to me...
Because of that, I am still haven't received them despite ordering them back in May....
It's NOT the fault of Bellissimoto of course, just logistic issue...

This motocorse steering stem cover is the last part I need to arrive so I can anodize it with the rear braketech rotor carrier, the rear suspension bracket, some washer and some other brackets,
but since it haven't arrive yet, the anodizing is delayed...
and I can't install my rear suspension back until I anodized the rear suspension bracket...
which means the whole rear sprocket upgrade also delayed etc. etc. etc... this is frustating...
 
I was at the local Sydney Ducati dealer yesterday and saw the 916 Anniversary model there. They have number 275/500 and it has been sold. A really nice looking bike with that big number one on it. Very impressed. The price tag in Australia is a bit steep. $66K AUD was the apparent price. That is a lot of coin. I liked the fact that it comes with the magnesium wheels. They also had a V4R there as well which was also very nice.
 
I was at the local Sydney Ducati dealer yesterday and saw the 916 Anniversary model there. They have number 275/500 and it has been sold. A really nice looking bike with that big number one on it. Very impressed. The price tag in Australia is a bit steep. $66K AUD was the apparent price. That is a lot of coin. I liked the fact that it comes with the magnesium wheels. They also had a V4R there as well which was also very nice.

I’m waiting for them to have a SL on display before I come in and...uhhh... buy a new jacket...
 
Hi Raul,

It's in the service manual with the link that I gave you above. That is where I find all the information needed to do a proper work on my bike.

After you download it, then you need to extract the zip folder, (right click on the zip file and click extract all, then press enter).
Then search for a PDF document title "REFITTING Clutch Cover", inside the extracted folder. Remember for every parts, all torque value is always in the PDF document with the title "REFITTING" or "REASSEMBLING" and NOT dissembling.
You can also search for PDF documents titled "CLUTCH COVER" and it will show several PDF documents and just select "REFITTING"

I can find it for you of course, but I do not want to do it, because then you always be dependent on me. Then what if I am no longer active in this forum? or I am not available? or If something happened to me?
So, Instead, I am going to give you guidance on how to find it so this way, you can learn more from doing it yourself and be independent.

Beside, not only you find torque value there, you might also find out whether you need grease or anti seize or Loctite applied on the bolts (or other steps you need to take to do it properly).
Thank you for your help
 
I was at the local Sydney Ducati dealer yesterday and saw the 916 Anniversary model there. They have number 275/500 and it has been sold. A really nice looking bike with that big number one on it. Very impressed. The price tag in Australia is a bit steep. $66K AUD was the apparent price. That is a lot of coin. I liked the fact that it comes with the magnesium wheels. They also had a V4R there as well which was also very nice.

Hi Brad,
Yes, it was love at first sight for me when I first saw a 916 25 Anniversario at Pro-Italia (a Ducati dealer in Glendale, Southern California) back in December last year.
Also, I wan to say thank you for the information on the serial number (I am compiling a list of every Ducati 916 25 Anniversario in the world) and their location.
The magnesium wheel really a throwback to the similarly colored wheel for both the 3 spoke and the optional 5 spoke wheel of the 916. I wouldn't want it in any other color :p



I've been waiting on my Aella clip-ons for 2 months....just 2 more weeks until I see my set..
Hi Torrific,
Same situation here where many parts delay me from really moving forward with my plan...
List of parts that is currently delayed for me:
a. MotoCorse Steering Stem Cover and Titanium Oil Filler Plug (with the MotoCorse logo), had been waiting since May
b. Rizoma rear view mirror (with turn signal) in Silver color had been waiting since May
c. ZETA Titanium front axle, had been waiting since May
d. SAMCO hose and Goodridge heat sleeve for brake line, had been waiting since last month
e. Goodridge custom kevlar brake and clutch lines, had been waiting since last month
f. EARL's flaring tool for solid tube brake line, had been waiting since last month
g. Ducati Carbon and Titanium parts, had been waiting for 3 months
h. Bonamici Clutch Half Lever for 16 RCS Corsa Corta (because they sent me the wrong one with the Brake Half Lever), had been waiting for 3 months
i. Heck, even the Brembo CNC Billet Rear Caliper that I ordered 10 days ago that was supposed to be delivered last Thursday by UPS were stuck at my local UPS hub because Race Technologies (Brembo Importer for US market) ask for Signature on Delivery... hopefully it will be delivered this week, or I will have to go pick it up at my local UPS hub (who conveniently closed on weekend).
j. Many parts at my painter were not finished because my painter oven was broken and the parts for the oven booth is in back order status

All the above really slow down my progress because some of the parts can't be installed without the other parts / process.



Anyway, I still manage to get this another productive weekend, and here is the update :D:
The thread insert to adapt the M10 holes to M8 holes arrived, I used High Strength Loctite to install it:
IMG_8276.JPG
IMG_8280.JPG

IMG_8277.JPG
IMG_8281.JPG



How the insert looks like after installed in to the hole, and the right picture show how it was holding the AELLA tie down plate to hold the Ducati by Rizoma reservoir, however, I don't like that the Ducati by Rizoma reservoir is not HORIZONTALLY Flat (in position), so I already have another idea to make it FLAT and will post it here soon :D
IMG_8282.JPG
IMG_8283.JPG



Now, this barb adapter below, will be anodized in gold soon, this will be part of another idea related to the rear brake...
however, I am not 100% sure that it will work until I buy another part,... so stay tune, this will be a great surprise it it work :p
IMG_8292.JPG


continue next due to limitation on pictures per post:
 
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Ok, so I am getting better at polishing aluminum to mirror polish and manage to cut the time from around 30 hours per part to a more manageable 15 hours per part :p
nothing to be proud (time wise) but considering I work with a simple Dremel (with 2 batteries that constantly runnng out of charge every 30 minutes).... I think I am quite proud of my newfound (amateur polishing) skill :D

First, I must say that I am inspired (and want to say Thank You) by the custom cnc machined rear suspension link that @Bruce Wayne made for his project and below is the picture of that machined link made by @Bruce Wayne:
(which I believe have slightly different geometry for a more progressive feel)
Bruce Wayne's v4link.jpg



Since, I don't want to change my suspension geometry, but I do want the nice looks of a machined aluminum, I decided to .... just mirror polished mine :D:

Here is BEFORE:
Notice I used blue painters tape to cover the holes with the seal and insert. I asked my wife to cut a nice round blue painters tape for me since, I am not that patient in cutting paper :p:
IMG_8296.JPG
IMG_8297.JPG




and AFTER I Mirror polished it myself. I was looking for several coating to protect the mirror polished finished on this link because I will NOT anodize this link, because I don't want to have to press another insert/bushing, plus I worry the anodizing process might alter the fit of the hole for the insert/bushing, and after doing some research, I decided to just use a Clear Coat for Brake Caliper (spray can) that I already have from my car bike project long time ago.
It is a heat resistant paint (as you can imagine for brake caliper application), so it should be able to withstand the head radiated from the rear exhaust manifold. I plan to perform the clear coat today after I eat my very late lunch:
Also note, because a few years ago I work at a global casting company so I learn a bit about casting and secondary machining process,
so I decided to grind out the parting line from the casting process of the link so now it show a smooth (no bevel/step) surface and make the part look more like it was machined, or at least a cast part with a proper secondary machining process as it should be :D.

IMG_8302.JPG
IMG_8303.JPG



Now this is a picture that show all the suspension parts (plus MotoCorse right frame/engine bracket),
the first 3 parts from the left is all stock Ducati rear suspension link/bracket that had been mirror polished by me, and the last 2 parts from the right is MotoCorse CNC Machined Aluminum Parts:
I plan to anodized the suspension bracket (but not the link) to the same gold anodized color as the MotoCorse right frame/engine bracket as sample color:
IMG_8300.JPG




Below is the picture comparison between Polished Forged Ducati Upper Rear Suspension Bracket vs. MotoCorse CNC Machined Rear Suspension Bracket, of course I plan to use the MotoCorse one, but I will still anodized the stock Ducati one so I can display in my future display box. Hence the mirror polishing to make it look nice and shiny after gold anodized:

IMG_8305.JPG
IMG_8306.JPG



Now this Ducati Lower Suspension Bracket will be installed on my bike after I anodized it in gold, and this picture is to illustrate how it's color should look like after gold anodizing:
IMG_8308.JPG
IMG_8309.JPG



But again, I can't perform the gold anodizing process, since I also want to anodized my MotoCorse Steering Stem Cover (which had not arrived yet despite ordering them back in May)...
hate the wait and delays...
 
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