Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread
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That is correct, I have no plan to ride it (maybe not ever, but at least for the next few years (or 1 decade).
Thank you Howard I shall try what you say and report back with results. So do you think that micro switch is better than a pressure switch? Thanks
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Hi Raul,
Yes, a micro switch is a much simpler solution, and simple is always better when it come to electro mechanical thing. (Lighter too, not much but lighter). And also I think it is not pretty to see a wire coming out of a banjo bolt top surface.
You can also hear the click (good indication of the switch working mechanically) and you can also see with your eyes the movement of the push pin of the microswitch.
A pressure switch is also a mechanical switch but activated with hydraulic movement, and if somehow you have hydraulic leak on you clutch system, it might not push the pressure switch enough for the mechanical switch inside.
but, again, it is easier to just use the multimeter, and set it to "ohms" reading. if the circuit/switch is in close position (connected), then the ohms reading will be close to zero (very low resistance).
if the switch is open position (disconnected) then the ohms reading will either be "infinity" or did not show any reading at all.
My Fluke multimeter can even have "beeping sound" if the circuit/switch is in close position. You can also measure voltage of your battery (real accurate value if you buy a nice multimeter like Fluke), which you might use for your car battery too.
I am sure there are also a lot of YouTube video showing how to use multimeters. I hope it helps.
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Thanks HKMP7,
I am in a dilemma now though, should I just buy a GP4-MS now and maybe paint it to look like the older era hard anodized color...
or wait maybe a year at least to see if Brembo will issue a road version of those new GP4 MotoGP caliper with the cooling fins...
or maybe just buy the new GP4-RR in 100mm spacing which already have a nice gold color, however, this means I need to replace my 17RCS Corsa Corta with a 19RCS Corsa Corta and the GP4-RR does not have the seal for road use...
I talked to Brembo a few days ago, and they confirm that the new GP4-RR will be available in 100mm spacing, however the covid19 situation delays everything...
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Definitively a tough decision I think I would go with the GP4-RR. I love that they have the old school superbike caliper color.
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If it was me I would just wait for the GP4 in road version with fins. It would be something to look forward to and a fun thing to your bike in the future. I am sure this time next year they will have fins on road going versions. I have looked at the MS as I like the the beautiful look of the nickel plate. However I am also looking at weight so considering Sicom discs instead of changing out the calipers. Trade off between unsparing weight and bling for me. Of course if money was not option. The M50 on my bike is a very good caliber and is monoblock. Talking to the brembo supplier here in Oz the GP4-RR should be used with a narrow band disc..
The T drives look very good and I have good things about performance. You may notice a rattle with them. Have heard this from several guys who had full floating discs. For static display of course will never be an issue.
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Hi Raul,
I forgot, it had been a while.
However, I have better solutions, you can download the service manual for Panigale V4 from this link (provided by a fellow Ducati Forum Member): V4S MANUAL-20190209T232713Z-001.zip
In that service manual you will find all the torque setting for every bolts on our bike.
Hi Howard took a look and cannot find it. Can you help? Thanks
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Hi Raul,
It's in the service manual with the link that I gave you above. That is where I find all the information needed to do a proper work on my bike.
After you download it, then you need to extract the zip folder, (right click on the zip file and click extract all, then press enter).
Then search for a PDF document title "REFITTING Clutch Cover", inside the extracted folder. Remember for every parts, all torque value is always in the PDF document with the title "REFITTING" or "REASSEMBLING" and NOT dissembling.
You can also search for PDF documents titled "CLUTCH COVER" and it will show several PDF documents and just select "REFITTING"
I can find it for you of course, but I do not want to do it, because then you always be dependent on me. Then what if I am no longer active in this forum? or I am not available? or If something happened to me?
So, Instead, I am going to give you guidance on how to find it so this way, you can learn more from doing it yourself and be independent.
Beside, not only you find torque value there, you might also find out whether you need grease or anti seize or Loctite applied on the bolts (or other steps you need to take to do it properly).
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The past 3 weekend, I spent many hours polishing the suspension bracket while learning on the fly.
And I must have spent at least 30 hours polishing this one single bracket using dremel from matte finish to polished finish.
Experimenting with many different grit of abrasive wheel, polishing compound and paste combination.
Also, learning the direction and pressure.
Many times also spent to eliminate the scratches I made when my dremel tool "jump and skip" and hit another surface (which most of the time already polished) and polish it again...
Hopefully this polishing will make it look better (shinier) when I anodized it in the next few weeks.
I still have 2 more rear suspension bracket/link to polish... I will do it next week, I am too tired now, but I think I should be able to do it just a bit faster now, thanks to the Power of Learning while Doing
This is before:
This is AFTER:
And I must have spent at least 30 hours polishing this one single bracket using dremel from matte finish to polished finish.
Experimenting with many different grit of abrasive wheel, polishing compound and paste combination.
Also, learning the direction and pressure.
Many times also spent to eliminate the scratches I made when my dremel tool "jump and skip" and hit another surface (which most of the time already polished) and polish it again...
Hopefully this polishing will make it look better (shinier) when I anodized it in the next few weeks.
I still have 2 more rear suspension bracket/link to polish... I will do it next week, I am too tired now, but I think I should be able to do it just a bit faster now, thanks to the Power of Learning while Doing
This is before:
This is AFTER:
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Thanks CoolSparky
On the part (pictured above), it will be anodized in gold color along with many other parts,
however,
I will need to protect one of the rear suspension link (the one with built in rubber bushing and bearing) after I polish it because I will not anodized that one link since I want it in natural aluminum polish color so it show some color contrast.
Plus I don't feel like pressing the bushing (although I do have a bushing/bearing press in my garage, but just don't feel like doing it). I will look into Sharkhide for this particular suspension link. Thanks again CoolSparky
Also, for everyone thinking of buying parts that only available from Motocorse Japan, it is best to just buy direct from Japan by using Japanese buying service like JapanParts or Buyee (if you buying part on Rakuten or Yahoo Japan).
I ordered the motocorse steering stem cover through Bellissimoto because I have a lot of rewards point from buying all the ProTi, however, Bellissimoto only can deal with Motocorse Italy,
so my parts have to be shipped from Motocorse Japan to Motocorse Italy, then to Bellissimoto in Las Vegas then to me...
Because of that, I am still haven't received them despite ordering them back in May....
It's NOT the fault of Bellissimoto of course, just logistic issue...
This motocorse steering stem cover is the last part I need to arrive so I can anodize it with the rear braketech rotor carrier, the rear suspension bracket, some washer and some other brackets,
but since it haven't arrive yet, the anodizing is delayed...
and I can't install my rear suspension back until I anodized the rear suspension bracket...
which means the whole rear sprocket upgrade also delayed etc. etc. etc... this is frustating...
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I was at the local Sydney Ducati dealer yesterday and saw the 916 Anniversary model there. They have number 275/500 and it has been sold. A really nice looking bike with that big number one on it. Very impressed. The price tag in Australia is a bit steep. $66K AUD was the apparent price. That is a lot of coin. I liked the fact that it comes with the magnesium wheels. They also had a V4R there as well which was also very nice.
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I’m waiting for them to have a SL on display before I come in and...uhhh... buy a new jacket...
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I've been waiting on my Aella clip-ons for 2 months....just 2 more weeks until I see my set..
Thank you for your help
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