V4R or V4 25’ Anniversario 916

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Front forks look dropped about as much as they can go, see pics, I assume that black bracket with the 3 screws is where you adjust the front fork height...how much do you recommend that I adjust it?...and I adjusted the pre-load on the rear to soften that up first thing when I got the bike, and last night I increased the pre-load on the front forks by about 4 turns of the blue nuts to help out with break dive until I can get the internals on the Ohlins swapped out.

the electronic suspension stuff is set to where Dave Moss had me put everything on my SF but I’ll set up another call with him soon to go through everything on this bike.
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Steven31371 said:
WHAT SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR OR DOING TO THIS BIKE TO MAKE IT SAFER AND FASTER?
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1. Geometry and ergonomics to make the bike steer and behave how you want
2. Correct springs in the front fork
3. Possibly have you fork valves redone when you get the springs done. Made a big difference on the track for me by adding another shim to the stack. What worked for me may not for you though.
4.Get your suspension dialed in. Sag and rebound are most important so start there. There is another thread in here regarding the adaptive damping. Personally I’m not a fan of it for track riding. I prefer to run in fixed mode.
5. Replace your stock hydraulic fluid with some high boiling point fluid.
6. Buy an upgraded quick shifter, the stock one sucks.
7. Install speed bleeder valves on master cylinders and calipers so you can bleed quickly. These bikes suffer from clutch hydraulic issues.
8. Personal preference but evaluate brake pad options. Going away from the stock pads allowed me to trail brake deeper and gain a lot of corner speed.
9. Invest in riding instruction. Best bang for the buck to go faster.
10.Invest in good gear for track riding. An air vest helps gives you some extra confidence too knowing that you will turn into the marshmallow man if you fly off the bike.

These bikes can go fast off the showroom floor.It’s mostly about getting it setup to suit you and also in you spending the time to learn how to ride faster while being safe. That takes time and practice. Plenty of v4s out on the track getting lapped by 600s.
 
Steven31371 said:
Front forks look dropped about as much as they can go, see pics, I assume that black bracket with the 3 screws is where you adjust the front fork height...how much do you recommend that I adjust it?...and I adjusted the pre-load on the rear to soften that up first thing when I got the bike, and last night I increased the pre-load on the front forks by about 4 turns of the blue nuts to help out with break dive until I can get the internals on the Ohlins swapped out.

the electronic suspension stuff is set to where Dave Moss had me put everything on my SF but I’ll set up another call with him soon to go through everything on this bike.View attachment 37950View attachment 37951
Click to expand...

you have more room to go. Yours are how mine were. I moved them flush to the top of the gold. I see no gold coming out the top. Adjusting is easy. Loosen the 3 bolts on the lower clamp, the upper clamp, and the clip ons and you can slide it down.
 
brad8266 said:
1. Geometry and ergonomics to make the bike steer and behave how you want
2. Correct springs in the front fork
3. Possibly have you fork valves redone when you get the springs done. Made a big difference on the track for me by adding another shim to the stack. What worked for me may not for you though.
4.Get your suspension dialed in. Sag and rebound are most important so start there. There is another thread in here regarding the adaptive damping. Personally I’m not a fan of it for track riding. I prefer to run in fixed mode.
5. Replace your stock hydraulic fluid with some high boiling point fluid.
6. Buy an upgraded quick shifter, the stock one sucks.
7. Install speed bleeder valves on master cylinders and calipers so you can bleed quickly. These bikes suffer from clutch hydraulic issues.
8. Personal preference but evaluate brake pad options. Going away from the stock pads allowed me to trail brake deeper and gain a lot of corner speed.
9. Invest in riding instruction. Best bang for the buck to go faster.
10.Invest in good gear for track riding. An air vest helps gives you some extra confidence too knowing that you will turn into the marshmallow man if you fly off the bike.

These bikes can go fast off the showroom floor.It’s mostly about getting it setup to suit you and also in you spending the time to learn how to ride faster while being safe. That takes time and practice. Plenty of v4s out on the track getting lapped by 600s.
Click to expand...
That’s awesome man, thank you.

what brake pads do you like, and more importantly, what quick shifter do you recommend?
 
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Steven31371 said:
That’s awesome man, thank you.

what brake pads do you like, and more importantly, what jock shifter do you recommend?
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I love the vesrah srjl ss pads. Not such a hard initial bite but help me to trail in better to corner apex compared to stock.

For quick shifters cordona and trans logic seem to be the 2 main options for these bikes. I have a cordona and it’s a good shifter
 
Steven31371 said:
Well this is why I’m here, to learn what I don’t know, hell I don’t even know enough about these bikes to know what questions to ask haha

so let’s begin there?
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Check the rear spring rate, the last 3 numbers on spring itself.

Does the bike have adjustable pivot ? Difficult to see from photos, no info online.
 
About pads, I suggest you stay away from Vesrah SS pads since you have no experience on the track! This pad has harder initial bite which can "bite you" due to inexperience.
I personally love SRJL-XX pads, and would recomend you RJL to begin with and than move on from there as your speed and control improves.
20210620_144718.jpg
 
Steven31371 said:
agreed but I think it’s still a safety measure on the street because it eliminates most high sides.
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That my friend is total ........- also do NOT believe the internet when it comes to "the electronics will save you" If you believe that then you will definitely be taking a trip to the moon when you overcook it and react badly.
 
Bo13R said:
About pads, I suggest you stay away from Vesrah SS pads since you have no experience on the track! This pad has harder initial bite which can "bite you" due to inexperience.
I personally love SRJL-XX pads, and would recomend you RJL to begin with and than move on from there as your speed and control improves.View attachment 37953
Click to expand...

I agree with this. I'm a mid-intermediate group rider and absolutely love their XX pads. I have never needed more braking power, my riding ability is still yet to be limited by the pads themselves. They're more than good enough for the road and have an extremely progressive feel. I struggled with trail braking until I swapped to their XX pads and got massively better overnight. The precision they give you in braking pressure leads to a massive confidence boost while trail braking. Extreme end of the spectrum pads like their SS pads or the Brembo Z04s have a very hard initial bite and I simply don't have the finesse to use them without unsettling the bike when leaned over.
 
panibadboy said:
its so hilarious to read this. ,you put oversuspension but didnt even bother to fix the standard suspension on the bike.

All V4s come standard with nose pitched down too much and over-sprung rear shock, causing lots of head shake on acceleration that can be dangerous at lean.

I would suggest to check the rear spring rate, if its something ridiculous like 105, change it to 95. Second thing is to drop the forks.
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has a 95 spring on it already, just checked that, so that’s cool

not sure how much more I can drop the forks, looks like there is a little bit of a machined angle there in the barrel of the shock where the mounts are, can I raise the edge of the three screw mount much above that?

also where do I check to see if it has a pivot point, do you have a pic of what it’s supposed to look like?

***Edit, yes it has a swing arm pivot point, all the S and R’s do...the bike has a bit of oversteer on lean in and goes a bit wide on heavy throttle coming out of curves...so I’m assuming that swing arm should be adjusted a bit for me but I’m not gunna mess with that until I get some track and instruction time, because frankly I’d rather it go a bit wide on me that for it to lose traction by going too far the other way, because I can manage it going wide by cutting throttle and adding lean much easier than I can manage a mid corner slide at my skill level on the bike.

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Man now I’m wanting to try the XX pads sometime too, maybe next season. I love the SS, they come on not nearly as hard as the stock pads and are nice and progressive. I never felt like they would be too much.
 
Steven31371 said:
has a 95 spring on it already, just checked that, so that’s cool

not sure how much more I can drop the forks, looks like there is a little bit of a machined angle there in the barrel of the shock where the mounts are, can I raise the edge of the three screw mount much above that?

also where do I check to see if it has a pivot point, do you have a pic of what it’s supposed to look like?

View attachment 37955View attachment 37956
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You can go as far down as to where you will see no gold coming through the top clamp.
 
Saw something interesting, apparently the same company that makes the CF wheels for Ducati, and the OE CF wheels for Porsche, also makes the escalators at the airport? Haha
A3B917C2-AD39-4515-967D-4A6B0C1D31B5.jpeg
 
BST makes the OEM carbon wheels for Ducati not Thyssenkrupp. Thyssenkrupp made wheels for BMW.
 
Steven31371 said:
has a 95 spring on it already, just checked that, so that’s cool

not sure how much more I can drop the forks, looks like there is a little bit of a machined angle there in the barrel of the shock where the mounts are, can I raise the edge of the three screw mount much above that?

also where do I check to see if it has a pivot point, do you have a pic of what it’s supposed to look like?

***Edit, yes it has a swing arm pivot point, all the S and R’s do...the bike has a bit of oversteer on lean in and goes a bit wide on heavy throttle coming out of curves...so I’m assuming that swing arm should be adjusted a bit for me but I’m not gunna mess with that until I get some track and instruction time, because frankly I’d rather it go a bit wide on me that for it to lose traction by going too far the other way, because I can manage it going wide by cutting throttle and adding lean much easier than I can manage a mid corner slide at my skill level on the bike.

View attachment 37955
Click to expand...

Interesting. My 21 V4S has a 85nm spring. I read somewhere that starting in 2020 they went to a lighter rear with a different linkage.
 
endodoc said:
BST makes the OEM carbon wheels for Ducati not Thyssenkrupp. Thyssenkrupp made wheels for BMW.
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Sorry, I miswrote there, meant ThysenKrupp made the Ducati wheels that I ordered before I got this bike ;-)

though I wouldn’t be suprised if ThysenKrupp replaced BST as the OE provider with Ducati, they use a process that’s more amenable to OE durability standards and have really targeted making CF wheels OEwith lots of manufacturers
 
I'd be better off with a 95nm. I'm still trying to figure out what the OEM fork spring is for a 2021 V4S. I get mixed results online. No matter what, it needs to be a higher rate that stock.
 

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